I have received several questions about my RAS T-track top while posting pictures on other topics within the forum. So in order to better try & describe the RAS top, I'm going to post several stages of the table top building here.
I didn't go by any set plans, It was more or less a trial & error type of process!
Originally I had planed to make a drop-leaf style table for the right-hand side, But during the build I changed my mind. That's the reason some of the pictures in the beginning stages show a off-set style top.
I knew I wanted to install the T-tracks & I also wanted a nice solid top that wouldn't warp or twist after it was built. What I ended up with was a modified version of a MR. Sawdust style top.
It has the normal 1/8” X 3/4” wide pieces of steel running from side-to-side in-between the front section, But I also installed two 3/8” X 3/4” steel pieces that run front-to-back. These thicker front-to-back pieces were installed flat 3/4” wide & recessed 3/8” deep into the bottom of the table. These front-to-back pieces also serve as a mounting surface for a new 12- point leveling base connection set-up.
The old flimsy table mounting brackets & base connections were replaced with 1/8” thick 2” X 2” angle-iron. The new angle-iron brackets have (6) holes each that were drilled just under 5/16” which allows me a little wiggle-room for adjusting the table which has (12) 1/4” bolts.
All things considered it was probably a lot of “Over-Kill” on my part!
But I was given the saw for free & I pretty much had most of the materials on-hand. So it didn't really cost me much to put it all together.
Doug
I didn't go by any set plans, It was more or less a trial & error type of process!
Originally I had planed to make a drop-leaf style table for the right-hand side, But during the build I changed my mind. That's the reason some of the pictures in the beginning stages show a off-set style top.
I knew I wanted to install the T-tracks & I also wanted a nice solid top that wouldn't warp or twist after it was built. What I ended up with was a modified version of a MR. Sawdust style top.
It has the normal 1/8” X 3/4” wide pieces of steel running from side-to-side in-between the front section, But I also installed two 3/8” X 3/4” steel pieces that run front-to-back. These thicker front-to-back pieces were installed flat 3/4” wide & recessed 3/8” deep into the bottom of the table. These front-to-back pieces also serve as a mounting surface for a new 12- point leveling base connection set-up.
The old flimsy table mounting brackets & base connections were replaced with 1/8” thick 2” X 2” angle-iron. The new angle-iron brackets have (6) holes each that were drilled just under 5/16” which allows me a little wiggle-room for adjusting the table which has (12) 1/4” bolts.
All things considered it was probably a lot of “Over-Kill” on my part!
But I was given the saw for free & I pretty much had most of the materials on-hand. So it didn't really cost me much to put it all together.
Doug
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