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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a rail and stile set that I have used to create several cabinet doors. I have a sled for doing the cope cuts but have done the stick cuts using holddowns. I have seen some articles that recommend using a sled for the stick cuts.
Your thoughts on using a sled for the sticking. I typically use Red Oak and have done all cuts in multiple passes to avoid splintering and tear-out.
 

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Hey Jimmie,

I always use a coping sled to do any rails and first I set my bit run a test piece then I make
a back up stick to sit behind the rail your clamping down and to the back rest of the sled.
Not sure where your check book is but I would highly recommend you check out WoodHavens sleds.
they are super simple and dead on accurate. I also cut my rails about a 1/32 to 1/16 over length so you know you are actually getting the full tongue for the rail end. Once I have my ends profiled I then run my lineal for the rail and stile.
Set up on the rail as there you can line up the tongue with the groove cutting part of your Stile Bit.
I always also save a sample of both the rail and stile separate from each other for the next run. Label
it and put a big X on the end you use for future set up and reference.
Hope this answers your questions, if not please inquire again.

Kind regards,

Tim J Ziegler
Ziegler WoodWork & Specialty
 

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Jimmie I also forgot to mention I never use a sled of any kind for the stiles, (sticks) as your referred.
But if I have short rails that seem like they snip or tend to be to short for the open area of the fence
then I may use jig of sorts to support the piece and save your fingers. I actually have one I made, but
when I do several then I may set up one of my other WoodHaven jigs I added a clear guide on the top
to ride the fence while the part is down below clamped in place.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Jimmie I also forgot to mention I never use a sled of any kind for the stiles, (sticks) as your referred.
But if I have short rails that seem like they snip or tend to be to short for the open area of the fence
then I may use jig of sorts to support the piece and save your fingers. I actually have one I made, but
when I do several then I may set up one of my other WoodHaven jigs I added a clear guide on the top
to ride the fence while the part is down below clamped in place.
Thank You.
I was going to ask about the Stile/Stick cut when your response posted. I have also done mine without a sled.....maybe just hold-downs to keep the wood flat to the table. I was browsing an old magazine article and saw that using a sled was recommended for the Stile/Stick cuts. Thought it sounded like a good idea and was wondering if this is a good idea.
 

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Hey Jimmie,

So yeah on the longer stuff you can just use two hand held hold downs aka "push blocks" to keep them flat too?
Also keeps the hands out of the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Jimmie here is what I use. sorry guess I have plywood guide but you can add plexi for better view too.

tim
Nice looking jigs. I'm just a DIYer and because I don't make a lot of stuff I have a hard time justifying spending that kind of $. I usually make my own jigs and generally have gotten good results. The jigs are usually a project in themselves.
 

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So I guess it's a good idea as long as your parts fit. so on the longer 2 panel doors your not going to be able to.
Like I mentioned I only use the sled on shorts.

Tim
 

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I do have a homemade one similar concept but I don't have not clamp on it anymore.
Look up: "Router Jigs and Fixtures", I think its a Rhodales book. Lots of great jigs in there too.
Not sure if its still available but... worth a try.
 

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Here is another couple books I have. I did not find the other I mentioned so looks like some
of the good ones are still available.
Well hope all that helps Jimmie.
let me know if I can help you in anyway.
 

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I have a sled but never use it. I don't like the fact that it impacts the height of the bit. It's hard enough getting things lined up without the added difficulty that the sled adds. If you have to go back and cut an extra piece it's even worse. I use feather boards for the stiles and a miter gauge for the rails. The rails on a door are narrow enough that a miter gauge is all you need. I do add a backer board to keep things from chipping. I am not sure about the extra 1/32 to1/16 as that would make the door that much larger. If you have two routers than the easiest way to set things up is simply have both mounted on a plate and switch plates.
 

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Thank You for taking the time to post this info. I really appreciate it.
Your very welcome Jimmie Nice talking to you.
Let me know if I can help with anything else.
 
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