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Raised panel help

2588 Views 12 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  pusserboy, 
pusserboy
Yesterday I made raised panel (stiles and rails) templates one set I made out of 1" stock turned out good but, the one I made out of 3/4" stock only had a ledge instead of a grove on the back.
Am I doing something wrong.
I thought that these bits were made for 3/4" stock.
P.S. I'm trying.
Thank you
Stuart
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H
Were you cutting free hand or on the router table? Did you reset your height for the difference in thickness of your board?

Herb
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pusserboy
Herb
I"m using a bosh router table, when I use 3/4" stock the bit seems wider than the wood and the best ones would be using 1" stock.
Stuart
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H
You might have to double stick a 1/4" thick template to the top of your panel for the bearing to ride on.
Herb
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DaninVan
Clarification?

pusserboy said:
Herb
I"m using a bosh router table, when I use 3/4" stock the bit seems wider than the wood and the best ones would be using 1" stock.
Stuart
Click to expand...
Stuart; just out of curiosity, are you running your stock with the 3/4" dimension flat on the table, or the width flat on it?
I would have said vertically or horizontally but that can be misinterpreted.
I too am a bit confused about the size of the bit. Why would you need to add a 'spacer' if the bit's designed for 3/4" ?
Also, if you're using the table...and a fence I presume(?)...why would the bearing have any, well, 'bearing'? It shouldn't come into contact, and if it does, it shouldn't be having any effect on the cut (the fence is doing the depth control).
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pusserboy
A picture is worth 1000 words but how to add pictures.
Stuart
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DesertRatTom
Like Herb, I think the thickness difference is most likely the problem. You cut the thick one first,then the 3/4 second. If you didn't readjust the bit height, it will make a different cut. Unexpected results are mostly forgetting something in the setup. I often mark the area to be removed in pencil so I can visually check how the bit lines up (see pix).

Don't forget that 3/4 ply isn't 3/4 and even milled hardwoods are not necessarily exactly 3/4, which suggests being meticulous about setting up each new cut.

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pusserboy
Gentlemen got the pictures in now maybe you can help

1- Shows stile 1"
2- Shows rail and stile 1" connected
3- Shows stile 3/4" stile has no back grove for panel
4- Shows rail 3/4"
5- Shows rail and stile together
Thank you for all your help
Stuart

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DaninVan
Thanks for the pics, Stuart; not what I had imagined. Just to be sure I understand, you've made two completely different frames; one is 3/4" in thickness and the other is a full 1" in thickness.
The 3/4" one doesn't allow for a slot for a panel, because the profile uses up too much of the thickness?
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M
The problem is that you have the bit too high. For 3/4" wood leave about 1/8" for the back. The rail and stile should go together so that the front is completely smooth and no sanding is required to make it smooth. If you only have one router be sure to cut extra parts because every time you have to reset the router you have through the set up process all over again and that can be time consuming. Once you have a perfect fit make some set up samples to help the next time. Be sure to use hold down feather boards to hold the stiles tight to the table and feather boards to hold them tight to the fence. Also use a miter gauge to keep the rails square to the frame.

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pusserboy
mgmine.
Thank you I am going to try that.
All you gentlemen have been a great help, I worked many years as a power engineer and maintenance but we never had a router table.
Thanks
Stuart
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L
You should be referencing the face not the back. By referencing the face (face down) any variations in wood thickness will be on the back. If your router bits are not made to do that you will have to adjust the ht. of the bit to provide less ledge on the face side.
If the bits were made the wrong way (for only referencing the back all your thickness variations will show up on the face where they are harder to take care of. If that's the case you will need to face all of your material then plane to thickness. Do you have access to 4/4 material? Either in the rough or surfaced to 7/8"? Starting off with 3/4" material won't allow you any way of correcting even minor twist, or flatness. The result will be non-flat or twisted doors!
A shaper is a far better way of making doors! Even a crappy used PM26 would be better than a router table.
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pusserboy
You gentlemen have been a great help made some templates they turned out great
Thanks again
Stuart
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