Charles is right on
But I have found one more way to make raise panels
It can be just a bit hairy to make panels,the bits are big and it's alot of steel spining at 8,ooo/10,ooo rpm's not to talk about the noise they make.
Most sq. corner panels are easy but when it come to the
Cathedral Door,OGEE CURVE,ROUNDED CURVE STYLE panels the fence can't come in to play it must be done free hand so to speak,but this safe way will work for both types.
Most of the Raise Panel Bits (with cut under bit) are in two parts with a bearing in the center of the two parts, If you remove the Small bearing and replace it with one that's bigger you can make the panels in two passes,one with the big bearing and one with the small bearing.
All you need to do is but the big bearing on the bit,zero the fence out make your 1st.pass on the panels then put the small bearing back on the bit and make the 2nd pass on the panels.
To make a Cathedral Door type door do all the sides and the bottom on the panel then remove the fence and do the top on the panel, then put the small bearing back on the bit and make your 2nd pass on the panels.
You can use a starter pin for this type of job but a block of plywood works best for the type of job ( 1/2 fence so to speak ) it's clamped to the table top right in front of the bit and just to one side of the bit.
Here's a link to the bearings that work great for this type job.
D - BEARINGS (for different depth cuts)
#12111 1-1/8" OD x 5/16" ID
#12112 1-1/4" OD x 5/16" ID
#12113 1-3/8" OD x 5/16" ID
#12114 1-5/8" OD x 5/16" ID
Just a NOTE,,,they can also be used on most slot cutters and some T & G sets
Cathedral Door,OGEE CURVE,ROUNDED CURVE STYLE
Let me see if I can explain this. I bought a cove raise panel bit a while back and when I use it I barely raise the bit and cut all four sides and then I raise the bit some more and cut all four sides and I continue this process until I get my desired depth. Is this the correct way to do it or do I set it at the desired depth of cut and then make a first pass on all four sides with the fence far enough out that only the end of the cutting tip is exposed, then move the fence to expose more of the cutting edge and do all four sides again and continue this process until all four sides are at the desired distance? The reason I am bringing this up is I bought my first raise panel bit with a back cutter and it looks to me that if you start out like I did with the cove bit above you will take the maximum bite with the back cutter. The next time you raise the bit it will be cutting nothing. Will this make the edge to thin to fit in the rails and styles?