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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Raised Panels Quick and Easy and inexpensively.

With the jig below and a Vertical bit you can make Raised Panels that are true and attractive.
The key to the jig is the saddle push block but it's a easy one to make just like the sub fence to hold the Panel Vertical and against the fences.
To make the panel you just drop the blank in between main fence and the sub fence.
Hold the panel down to the router table and push it by the router bit.
(make a small (1/2) cut on the 1st. pass on all 4 sides of the panel) then reset the fences and make the 2nd and final pass on the panel(s).

Just a NOTE****Because you are using a Vertical bit you can run the bit at a higher speed (14,000 to 18,000 rpm) than the standard panel bit ( 3" to 3 5/8" dia. 6,000 rpm to 8,000 rpm. the norm) this will give you a cleaner cut and make your job quick and easy,but don't go to fast let the bit do it's job but not to slow, the bit will burn the wood if you move to slow and they are hard to sand out.
A 2HP router can take this job on easy unlike the standard panel bits that take a 3 hp router or more.

Just a quick note how to make a door frame quick and easy.
Start off with 3/4" x 6" wide stock, cut off a piece stock that's the length of the top and bottom rail,chuck up the male part of the T&G set,cut the end grain on the rails then put the female part of the T&G set in the router and put the female cut on all the sides of the stock (rails & styles ) now to the table saw and rip the stock down to 2 7/16" wide, now you have all the parts you need to make the door quick and easy.

Doors,,,,most use a 1/2" over lap on all 4 sides, if you cut your stock 2 7/16" wide it's easy to come up with the size (length) of the Stile i.e. if you want the door to fit a 11" x 21" (with ovelap) opening just take away -4" from the Stiles and make the Rails 21" long and your door(s) will be just the right size.

Below you will see some links for the bits...

If you need more info please ask.

I should NOTE***
I use the T & G set on most of the door frames I make,you can OFFSET the T&G bit to put the slot 1/8" from inside of the door frame,in that way the panel will set just right in the door or side panel on the cabinet case.
The slot will be 7/16" deep, the default for most door frames,if you want to dress the frame up a bit you can run a ogee bit on the inside of the door frame b/4 you glue it up by just clamping the frame up and run the bit 1st.
(with a plunge router)
I use a standard 3/4" x 2 7/16" wide stock for most of the door frames I make up.
You can also use the standard door set, but I found out that the T&G set is quicker and just as strong.
Plus you can use the T&G set to put the case sides and the face frame in place all with one bit set.

see snapshot of the T & G set below.

http://www.routerforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2575
http://www.routerforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2233
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3-Piece Tongue & Groove Cabinetmaking Set
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/products.asp?id=202


Bj :)

Back cutter /Undercutter Bits
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/raised_panel_router_bits2.html#rpundercutter_anchor


http://www.infinitytools.com/departments.asp?dept=1001

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/routerbit.html
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Shane
I do alot of case work and put on many doors with the Raised Panels, it can be a pain to set up the big 3 1/2" cutter and I can use the 2 1/4 HP P.C. with this jig I can make a panel in 5 mins.or less that's if all the sides are at 90 deg.to ea. other.

Have good one
Bj :)
 
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