Hello, I am new to this site. I have a question. I purchased a used 14" Ram Bandsaw. I am having trouble with the blade coming off the wheels and damaging the the blade. I think the wheels are co-planer. I can turn the wheel by hand and appears to be OK, but when I turn it on within 10-20 seconds it is off the wheel. I don't want to purchase another blade until I solve the problem. Any ideas. Thanks
RAM Bandsaw
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Have you tried adjusting the top-wheel tilt to keep the blade tracking properly? Also, do you have the tension adjusted properly?
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A new blade could help with tracking. What shape are the tires in? If they are rubber tires, I would highly recommend the urethane tires available some places.
I had a brand new blade that wouldn't stay on a bandsaw, but when I put new tires on it it could be adjusted to track perfectly.
I had a brand new blade that wouldn't stay on a bandsaw, but when I put new tires on it it could be adjusted to track perfectly.
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I would try a new blade, especially if you believe it is damaged. I recently purchased a new bandsaw that came with bearing guides, which I had never used before. I set the guides too tight on the blade (they should BARELY touch the blade, and the rear one just barely off the blade.) The result was the blade ended up getting stretched and warped. There was nothing I could do to get that blade to track right after that. The new blade went on without any issue.
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Hi David:
Did you get a manual with it? I've defined two types of 14" bandsaws: round top and square angular top. If yours' is a round top I'd appreciate getting a copy of your manual please.
Send me a PM if necessary. Else, upload it to the forum manuals section and let me know it's there.
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Hi David:
I've found a bit of information on the Ram Machinery band saw. You have the 14" "import" from Taiwan. For the whole story and more manuals than you can read, go to the articles section of this forum and look for the 14" "import" bandsaw comparison. All of the manuals there are applicable to your saw. The more you read, the more you'll find that they are identical. Give me a few days and I'll try to get the old "AW" manual digitized and uploaded.
Ok, you don't have a riser. Other than that, you'll find that blades give or take an inch or so for each size of machine. You will probably need 93 1/2" but confirm this with your vendor before purchasing. I have a 6" riser on mine that will give me 12" depth of cut with 13 1/2" from the throat to the blade and I'll use 105".
Make sure that your upper wheel shaft hinge and upper wheel sliding bracket are both in good shape. Look for any hairline cracks etc. It may be prudent to replace them and put in a new spring as well. I replaced all the bearings, upper wheel controls, new neoprene tires and two new blades on mine plus the $25- purchase price and I've got about $100 into mine by now.
In Canada, one of our primary resources is R&D bandsaw in Toronto. R&D Bandsaws - Featuring Tuff Tooth® Bandsaw Blades, Bandsaw Blades, Bandsaw Accessories, Olson Scroll Saw Blades, Kreg Products and more! Bob has helped me put mine into fully operating condition. He might be able to help with yours.
Can we have a few pictures of your saw please and could you also take a closeup of the logo. We're bound to run into more RAM stuff over the years. Important parts are the belt pullies, neck of the frame and the blade support section near the table. I may need a few additional pictures as we go along.
More questions? Return here after you've read the comparison.
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Harbor Freight may have a manual online if this is one of their bandsaws. I know they do for their lathe.
I am going through the joys of learning a new old bandsaw. Mine is a 10" Rockwell/Beaver. I had a lot of trouble with tuning the saw with the 1/8" blade that came on it, to the extent that I ended up kinking the blade in a couple of places, rendering it useless and likely to do all sorts of odd things. I put on a ¼" blade that had also come with the saw, and like the sun coming out on a cloudy day, everythng cleared up. The 'new' blade tracked properly and adjusted easily, but it is so dull that I would have trouble cutting my thumbs with it. New blades aren't expensive; get a couple and don't handicap yourself right off the start.
Oh, on my saw, moving the tracking screw about ¼ turn is enough to send the blade from one side of the wheel to the other. Be very, very tentative about making adjustments.
I am going through the joys of learning a new old bandsaw. Mine is a 10" Rockwell/Beaver. I had a lot of trouble with tuning the saw with the 1/8" blade that came on it, to the extent that I ended up kinking the blade in a couple of places, rendering it useless and likely to do all sorts of odd things. I put on a ¼" blade that had also come with the saw, and like the sun coming out on a cloudy day, everythng cleared up. The 'new' blade tracked properly and adjusted easily, but it is so dull that I would have trouble cutting my thumbs with it. New blades aren't expensive; get a couple and don't handicap yourself right off the start.
Oh, on my saw, moving the tracking screw about ¼ turn is enough to send the blade from one side of the wheel to the other. Be very, very tentative about making adjustments.
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Hi Roger:
I have an article on the "import" bandsaw at this location:
http://www.routerforums.com/woodwor...ndsaw-hung-li-hsing-comparison-15-brands.html
In it are links to all of the manuals that I can find. If your Rockwell/Beaver is the 14" "import" bandsaw, you might take a look. It might prove interesting.
For anyone looking at this, tires wear, blades stretch and wheels go out of line with use. Learn how to tune up your bandsaws.
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