Recommended router HP for rail and stile

For the table, I recommend that you consider the 3.25 hp Triton TRA001. While too heavy for me to handle freehand, it excels in the table. It also has a built-in lift so you can adjust the bit height from above the table. That is no small thing. A lift for the excellent Bosch can run 200-400 dollars, while having the lift and more power with the Triton is only about $50 more than the Bosch 1617 EVSPK or any of the other mid-sized routers that get recommendations around here. I've had the Triton for several years and really like its power and performance. You'll likely get a lot of feedback for your question.

I'm not really a Porter Cable or DeWalt fan, but since I don't own them, I really can's speak to their quality. Having looked them over in the store, I was not impressed with the build. I do have two Bosch 1617s one of which was in my table before the Triton, and performed very well. I had a Rockler lift, but I couldn't get it to lock at a set height. Another guy here bought it and says the lift works fine for him.

Not sure how experienced you are, so I'm attaching a pdf on the major things I learned that helped me speed up my learning curve. Maybe it will save you some money. It's long, but has pictures.

I'm sure Stick will shortly post a link to a great selection of documents on many aspects of tools, methods and safety. Take the time to read them, it will save you a lot of trial and error.

I approached this problem a little differently. My set up is on the basis of a 3 spindle shaper. The difference is, I bought 3 Bosch 1617 routers and Rockler plates. (for less than the cost of a lift) I can pull a router out and drop another one in and just adjust the fence. It saves me a ton of time. I have the rail on one, style on the second and the panel bit on the third. I have been thinking about a fourth for door edges. One problem that I did notice with the Bosch base is there is a little play in it. Not a problem if you do your set up in the table while it is suspended. I prefer to set mine up out of the table so I don't spend all that time bent over trying to make fine adjustments. I built a little stand and set the router suspended from the plate. I can work eye level which significantly reduces set up time. It is inevitable that you will need to make another piece or two to finish the project. 2 screws drop the router you need in the table, adjust the fence. Done. I do like to take 2 or 3 passes depending on the material. Remove 95% of the material and a final pass for very clean smooth cut.

Why the 1617? The electronic speed control maintains the bit speed for a cleaner cut, it can be used as a handheld, or plunge (I bought a 4th 1617 for this purpose). These have worked reliably for 7 years.

I used the Triton at a retirement home shop and I thought it was a pain to use because of all the safety features. It was over done IMO.

Absolutely. The variables are bit diameter, the larger the diameter means that outer edge is moving faster and faster as you increase size. This is a real safety issue. If you are using even a solid carbide 1/4 diameter bit will break on you when you exceed 18000 RPM. The material that you are cutting requires that you make some adjustments in speed to get a clean cut. I usually slow my bit down while hogging out material. I make a final pass at a higher speed that gives me very clean final cut that does not require a lot of prep for finishing.

The other hard learned and expensive lesson is it makes a huge difference in what quality bit you are using. Some inexpensive bits can chatter. This is where a heavy duty bit will prove its value. Lower quality bits will require frequent sharpening. You will need to spend a lot of time cleaning up the cuts before finishing.

I have a PC 890 router that I have made many cabinet doors with. I do have an Incra Positioner and that makes setting up very easy. The 2.25 HP router for the 890 is very good for my router table.

There are many theories about how to cut your material. I like to cut the grove (Stile) on long pieces with feather boards. Then I use a sled to cut the rails. Keep some of the material to make setup blocks for future projects with the same bit.

As always you should make sure all your stock is the same thickness. The wood from the lumber yard varies from board to board. If you do not have consistent thickness stock you will have a lot of sanding to do on the junctions of the stile and rail.

Set up your router and run all of your stock on the same run. You need to pay attention to grain direction. Oak and even maple will splinter out if your are routing against the grain. It is like petting a cat. If you pet down from the head to the tail the fur is smooth. if you pet from the tail to the head the fur is rough and the cat does not like it very much. The same is true with the grain of the wood.

I like the Frued Premiere Shaker bits. They are adjustable and have the ability to make long tenons for heavy or large doors. Additionally you can make doors that accept glass and thick doors for heavy or large doors. Most cabinet doors are 3/4" but with the Frued you can use thicker material.