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Welcome to the forum.

Wot Dennis said....

The burnt layer of timber (this as it is) has to be removed.
 

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you should change the blade before you cut any more so it dosent happen again is the wood still too high in moisture. Andy
 

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When I had that problem I installed a thin kerf Freud Fusion combination blade. That may or not work for you, for the most part it worked for me most of the time but not every time. Running the piece over a jointer is probably your best bet as mentioned above in another reply. If you don't have a jointer the fusion blade might be your best bet, but thats still a costly fix, about $80 plus shipping from Rockler.

Jerry
C City, TX
 

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I have had some success in removing burn marks, by wetting the burn with mineral turps and then sanding with about an 80 grit while the burn is still wet. You could also try wetting with water instead od turps. Good luck!
 

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If you have much more cherry to cut use a special order blade with silver in the cutting tips. Was working on a very high dollar five plex with all solid cherry doors and running trim, the boss recognised the proublem, purchased the blades and the proublem was over.
 

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Bradley, do you have a link for that? Was the carbide silver-soldered to the plate?
Very strange; you've got to wonder who and how someone discovered that(?).
 

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The mfgr. was in LA and it was a long time ago so no link to offer. If you google it you may fing someone that still makes saw blades. It was my impression, and I could be wrong, that the silver was in the carbide teeth. The mfgr. made blades and their teeth for various wood species. I do remember that the blades with the silver in the teeth solved the burn in the cherry and boy did we have a lot to mill!!
 

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Do you have any room to make a skim pass to take off the burn? Next time you need to rip cherry make the first cut a little oversize (1/8" overall) then go back with a light pass to the final dimension. Try not to stop thru the cut as it may burn.
 
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