[Steven Owen]

I want to mount the Milwaukee 5625-20 into the Incra Master Lift. I’m having a difficult time trying to figure out how to remove the depth adjustment rod from the motor.

Does anyone know how to remove the depth adjustment rod from the motor on the 5625 so it can be mounted into the Incra Master Lift?

 

[swarfmaker]

There is a pan head screw under the white plug on top of the black knob. Lever out the plug, remove the screw and knob.

 

[Steven Owen]

There is a pan head screw under the white plug on top of the black knob. Lever out the plug, remove the screw and knob.

It doesn’t look like the rod comes out at all. It appears to fit in the Incra Lift without removing the depth adjustment rod for the base. It should work without removing it

It’s odd Milwaukee didn’t make a way to remove the depth adjustment rod. In looks like the folks at Jessem were one step ahead in their design of the Incra Master Lift.

 

[woodknots]

Here's a link to ereplacement parts for your router. You can click on the "download diagram" at the top of the page for a better diagram. From the parts list, select part no. 40 (depth shaft assembly) and it will take you to the page for that part. At the bottom of the page there was a question asked about the removal of the depth adjustment shaft and an answer given. If you review that answer, in conjunction with parts diagram you should be good to go.

Essentially, as swarfmaker said, start by removing the screw at the top of the adjustment knob.

https://www.ereplacementparts.com/milwaukee-562520-ser-395a-router-parts-c-131_5075_5756.html

 

[Steven Owen]

Here's a link to ereplacement parts for your router. You can click on the "download diagram" at the top of the page for a better diagram. From the parts list, select part no. 40 (depth shaft assembly) and it will take you to the page for that part. At the bottom of the page there was a question asked about the removal of the depth adjustment shaft and an answer given. If you review that answer, in conjunction with parts diagram you should be good to go.

Essentially, as swarfmaker said, start by removing the screw at the top of the adjustment knob.

https://www.ereplacementparts.com/milwaukee-562520-ser-395a-router-parts-c-131_5075_5756.html

Thanks Chiarelli.

So far I appear to have it mounted. into the Incra Lift without removing the depth rod. The depth rod is not interfering with the lift.

The more annoying part was adjusting the mounting bracket for the Jessem made Incra Lift 2. The brackets had to be modified with two different positions to fit the 5625 motor. The D3 position on the chart for the brackets in the Jessem Manual did not allow the 5625 to sit in HD lift. I had to adjust so the Allen key bolts were set to two different positions on each side to squeeze the 5625 motor into the Incra lift.

I couldn’t get the 5625 into the lift following the directions exactly.

 

[dbender49]

I just removed the plunge depth adjustment shaft from my 5625, so I'll post this while it's fresh in my mind. First, I found a YouTube video here that shows the process in stop-motion, and that helped. But there is a point at about 0:20 in the video where I wasn't sure what he did next. So here's the process:

1. Remove the adjustment knob.
2. Remove the 4 screws holding the red plastic cover and set the cover aside.
3. Remove the 1 screw holding the electronic feedback module (EFM).
4. Locate the white wire from the EFM to the motor, and disconnect it from its spade lug.
5. Lift the EFM and fold it back toward the power cord and out of the way.

6. This is the point in the video where it isn't obvious what he does. The motor is in two main parts; the upper black plastic part and the aluminum housing below it. The only thing that holds them together, once you've removed the 4 screws in step 2 above, is friction. I took a small rubber mallet and tapped the four ears of the black plastic upward, on an angle, so that I was tapping only the plastic and not the aluminum below/inside it. Proceed around the motor, tapping these four ears upward in succession, and the black plastic housing will start to lift away from the aluminum body. Soon you'll be able to lift it clear.

7. Lift the adjustment shaft out and set it aside.
8. Reassemble in reverse order.

The only tricky part of the reassembly is spreading the brushes apart to allow the motor's commutator to pass between them. I managed it by myself, pulling them back and holding them with two small screwdrivers, but it would be easier with a helper. You should be able to manage it, but an alternative would be to remove the brushes, slide the two halves of the motor back together, and then reinstall the brushes. If needed, Ron Paulk has a video on replacing the brushes here.

Duane

 

[dbender49]

I just removed the plunge depth adjustment shaft from my 5625, so I'll post this while it's fresh in my mind. First, I found a YouTube video here that shows the process in stop-motion, and that helped. But there is a point at about 0:20 in the video where I wasn't sure what he did next. So here's the process:

1. Remove the adjustment knob.
2. Remove the 4 screws holding the red plastic cover and set the cover aside.
3. Remove the 1 screw holding the electronic feedback module (EFM).
4. Locate the white wire from the EFM to the motor, and disconnect it from its spade lug.
5. Lift the EFM and fold it back toward the power cord and out of the way.

6. This is the point in the video where it isn't obvious what he does. The motor is in two main parts; the upper black plastic part and the aluminum housing below it. The only thing that holds them together, once you've removed the 4 screws in step 2 above, is friction. I took a small rubber mallet and tapped the four ears of the black plastic upward, on an angle, so that I was tapping only the plastic and not the aluminum below/inside it. Proceed around the motor, tapping these four ears upward in succession, and the black plastic housing will start to lift away from the aluminum body. Soon you'll be able to lift it clear.

7. Lift the adjustment shaft out and set it aside.
8. Reassemble in reverse order.

The only tricky part of the reassembly is spreading the brushes apart to allow the motor's commutator to pass between them. I managed it by myself, pulling them back and holding them with two small screwdrivers, but it would be easier with a helper. You should be able to manage it, but an alternative would be to remove the brushes, slide the two halves of the motor back together, and then reinstall the brushes. If needed, Ron Paulk has a video on replacing the brushes here.

Duane

Here is the link to Ron's video on changing the brushes: