easy on the heat...
hair dryer - heat gun may cook the wood and it will show up in the finish...
turps for the residue....

 

Hair dryer but set it to medium heat - only works if the glue is that "sticky" stuff.
If it's the "dry" stuff , dab the paper with a little water and let is sit until loose.

 

I use Goof Off.. bought it at Lowes

 

I used a type of really soft rubber wheel that fits in your drill and is specifically designed to remove pin stripping off of vehicles . I think it was from Napa

 

an eraser...

 

Eucalyptus oil....

 

I use Benzine to get the sticky labels off anything - not sure if it will damage the natural oils in the wood though.

 

Lacquer thinner works for me.

 

WD40 or Goof off on anything BUT wood, a well turned card scrapper on woods...

 

you got that right...

 

Just about any petroleum base solvent will work. However, some are more invasive then others. I recommend and use plain Mineral Spirits. Mostly to remove scroll saw patterns from my wood; enough to thoroughly wet the paper and degrade the adhesive, wait a few minutes and the patterns peel right off. It doesn't harm the wood or effect any finish. A quick wipe removes any residue and evaporates quickly.

WD-40 works great to soften sticker adheasives, but I NEVER use it on wood. only metals, plastics or similar materials.

I try and stay away from things like Naphtha, Acetone, etc. Lacquer thinners are in this group...too aggressive. They are a last resort to remove stubborn residue. If I do use them, it is on and wiped right back off.

Hope this helps.

Bill

 

I use dry-cleaning / stainremover fluid: Perchloroethylene, to great effect. lacking that, Benzene / zippo lighter fluid also works well

 

Trichloroethylene and Perchloroethylene are very toxic and easily absorbed into the skin... and easily inhaled damaging the lungs. Trich never leaves the bloodstream once it is there. It can cause all kinds of health problems. Naphtha (Benzene) is not quite as bad but still can be a health hazard. (I absorbed a lot of this from overfilled Zippo lighters in my youth).

I would caution that if you insist on using Trich or Perch that you use the proper gloves and a good chemical cartridge respirator, or a VERY well ventilated area.

I won't preach any further then this...

There are much safer alternatives available.

Bill

 

Heat gun, applied lightly, just enough to loosen the label. Then go down to any dummy that applies labels to the middle of the finished side of plywood and fry their A$$! They do the same to poster boards, which I use in my courses and used to be able to use both sides.

 

! They do the same to poster boards, which I use in my courses and used to be able to use both sides.

marketing knows this...
that guy is getting paid to put the sticker where it is...

 

I agree with Bill. Mineral Spirts

 

Rubbing alcohol or Acetone? No oily residue from either of those.

 

I haven't seen Benzine here since it was declared a carcinogenic years ago.

Herb

 

Went looking for Xylene in December...paint stores looked at me like I was a Neanderthal. Found it at my local lumberyard, in the fibreglass section. If I hadn't asked a clerk, I wouldn't even have thought of looking for fibreglass section...

 

I use a putty knife lightly to remove the paper.
Then I switch to paint thinner on a paper towel to remove the glue.
So far no discoloration of the wood and clean staining after sanding.

 

I'm in the process of installing new (cheep!!) hollow core slab doors on the second floor since the previous owners kids must have used them for either kick ball practice or 'fine art' displays with yards of scotch tape. All but one of the new ones, Jeld-Wen must have used the most aggressive sick-um labels ever produced by man. I ended up with a heat gun on low along with a sharpened (but not too sharp) 1" flexible putty knife just to peel those labels. That stick-um mostly came off but the remaining goo was removed with some 70% rubbing alcohol after trying mineral spirits. The mineral spirits just seemed to turn it into a gooey globs. As far as personal protection - nitrile gloves (Harbor Freight) and a fan, but those gloves will soften and tear so a pair per door at least will be needed. Automotive paint grade thinners (that I have) - strong stuff that would require, IMO, organic vapor respirators as it is quite toxic.

 

I use white spirits, it doesn't leave a stain on wood or MDF.

 

It's Clear To Me

Harry; White Spirits N.A. version...

 

I'd rather drink your than mine!

 

I use synthetic oil or nail polish remover whivh has acetone.

 

I use Goof Off. It works ok.

 

I use bacon grease, smells better.

Herb

 

How did bacon get into this thread?

 

Bob, there is ALWAYS room for bacon.... :smile:

 

come here to learn some life tips.
thanks.

 

I purchased nine nice sheets of birch plywood a few weeks back. The sticker guy must not have been a woodworker as he put the stickers (not one, but two) on the good side. Why not the other side?.... Told the manager and all he said was "that is the way we identify the produce". He did't get it either.

 

Heat if its on a side that won't show. The kind of residue varies, some don't penetrate and can be rubbed off, others need a solvent. Try the rubbing first.