My Bosch 1613EVS switch failed (part number 2607200251). It’s my favorite router, and I thought I would just replace the trigger switch. But it seemed that there were none available anywhere, and I really searched everywhere. I finally found one, which may be the very last one on the planet.
Meanwhile, until the new switch arrived, I decided to try to repair my old switch. Below, I’ve written up how I successfully did this. The end result is that my repaired switch functions well, although I’ll probably install the new one soon.
1. Remove the left handle (trigger switch handle) with the three screws. The plastic cover fit is tight, but you can slip in a Xacto blade to begin to pry it open. (wear goggles!)
2. Photograph the switch in place. I always take photos when I’m disassembling things.
![Image]()
3.
Pull out the switch; it’s not screwed in. The two grey wires appear to be non-polar, but I labeled them anyway so I could put them back in the same place they were in. Don’t remove the small screws that hold the wires entirely, but just enough to allow you to remove the wires. These screws hold the switch contacts in place.
4. The switch isn’t glued or heat-sealed, it’s just press fit together – and done very tightly (German engineering at its best!). There is an obvious seam in some places around the switch. Again, using an Xacto blade, and wearing goggles in case the blade snaps, and keeping fingers clear, slip the blade in a part of the seam and gently pry open. Insert a jewelers screwdriver in the opening. Pry a second spot, and do the same. Using a slightly larger screwdriver, open all sides of the switch, being careful to not damage or lose anything inside the switch. Be gentle; take your time.
![Image]()
5. When it’s open, I used zep degreaser and a tiny paintbrush to clear out the accumulated dirt, then very hot water to flush out the Zep. Be sure to keep your finger on the contacts/spring assembly.
![Image]()
6. Remove the 4 rectangular nickel-plated switch contacts. You can clean the contact points or simply turn each block around and use the other sides.
7. Gently remove any oxidation and dirt from the leaf contacts. I used a tiny file.
8. Reinstall the contact blocks in the upper part of the housing. I left mine a bit loose in order to make them slightly movable for reassembly.
9. Reassemble the two halves. This will take some time, but be sure everything is lined up and put pressure on all sides of the housing. I needed pliers to close the last 1/8 inch (3mm). Again, do a little at a time going all around the switch.
10. Reconnect and reinstall the switch. Reassemble the router.
Meanwhile, until the new switch arrived, I decided to try to repair my old switch. Below, I’ve written up how I successfully did this. The end result is that my repaired switch functions well, although I’ll probably install the new one soon.
1. Remove the left handle (trigger switch handle) with the three screws. The plastic cover fit is tight, but you can slip in a Xacto blade to begin to pry it open. (wear goggles!)
2. Photograph the switch in place. I always take photos when I’m disassembling things.
3.
Pull out the switch; it’s not screwed in. The two grey wires appear to be non-polar, but I labeled them anyway so I could put them back in the same place they were in. Don’t remove the small screws that hold the wires entirely, but just enough to allow you to remove the wires. These screws hold the switch contacts in place.
4. The switch isn’t glued or heat-sealed, it’s just press fit together – and done very tightly (German engineering at its best!). There is an obvious seam in some places around the switch. Again, using an Xacto blade, and wearing goggles in case the blade snaps, and keeping fingers clear, slip the blade in a part of the seam and gently pry open. Insert a jewelers screwdriver in the opening. Pry a second spot, and do the same. Using a slightly larger screwdriver, open all sides of the switch, being careful to not damage or lose anything inside the switch. Be gentle; take your time.
5. When it’s open, I used zep degreaser and a tiny paintbrush to clear out the accumulated dirt, then very hot water to flush out the Zep. Be sure to keep your finger on the contacts/spring assembly.
6. Remove the 4 rectangular nickel-plated switch contacts. You can clean the contact points or simply turn each block around and use the other sides.
7. Gently remove any oxidation and dirt from the leaf contacts. I used a tiny file.
8. Reinstall the contact blocks in the upper part of the housing. I left mine a bit loose in order to make them slightly movable for reassembly.
9. Reassemble the two halves. This will take some time, but be sure everything is lined up and put pressure on all sides of the housing. I needed pliers to close the last 1/8 inch (3mm). Again, do a little at a time going all around the switch.
10. Reconnect and reinstall the switch. Reassemble the router.
