Hi HF11,
would be better to be able to see the whole door, including the part where the piece you show fits into. At first glance, it looks like the top rail (which I think is what you are showing) is morticed into the stile (vertical piece). As mgmine says, coped rail and stile is not that strong a joint, there is only the glued surface to provide strength. Mortice and tenon is another matter. It looks like instead of the square shoulders on the tenon, the makers coped it to fit the profile of the stile.
I think you would have to cut the tenon first, then cope it twice - once on either side of the tenon, with a bit which is the negative of the one producing the edge profile. The problem will be to find a bit which does not have a protruding part of the shaft, e,g, where a bearing might fit. All the ones I have seen, have such a shaft and nut. Then you would need a robust mitre fence, since the router table's fence will be some distance away from the bit, and you would be coping "blind", under the tenon - scary thought.
Do you really want to get into these complications (and cost of a custom bit)? Maybe mgmine's advice is best.
If you are really determined, have you considered a conventional square-shouldered tenon to fit the existing mortice, and then cover the gaps with filler pieces? The strength will be in the mortice and tenon, not the coping. You can pin the tenon if you need to.
would be better to be able to see the whole door, including the part where the piece you show fits into. At first glance, it looks like the top rail (which I think is what you are showing) is morticed into the stile (vertical piece). As mgmine says, coped rail and stile is not that strong a joint, there is only the glued surface to provide strength. Mortice and tenon is another matter. It looks like instead of the square shoulders on the tenon, the makers coped it to fit the profile of the stile.
I think you would have to cut the tenon first, then cope it twice - once on either side of the tenon, with a bit which is the negative of the one producing the edge profile. The problem will be to find a bit which does not have a protruding part of the shaft, e,g, where a bearing might fit. All the ones I have seen, have such a shaft and nut. Then you would need a robust mitre fence, since the router table's fence will be some distance away from the bit, and you would be coping "blind", under the tenon - scary thought.
Do you really want to get into these complications (and cost of a custom bit)? Maybe mgmine's advice is best.
If you are really determined, have you considered a conventional square-shouldered tenon to fit the existing mortice, and then cover the gaps with filler pieces? The strength will be in the mortice and tenon, not the coping. You can pin the tenon if you need to.
