Well the bottom picture does look much better!
I just used the original metal hex head screws. Yep, it's been since April 2015 for me. Time flies, doesn't it HJ?Good job Jay. What kind of nuts and bolts did you use to fasten the spoilboard down with? Nylon, metal, or combination?
Have we had these 3 years already?? Doesn't seem like it.
I wouldn't trust my limited abilities to cut it that close. So I just put a cardboard separator on the spoilboard under my material. Can use it several times, and then pitch it. Only cost 25-50 cents depending on the size. I also will profile cut to just above the bottom, and then finish cutting on the band saw and sand the edges smooth. I think 4d turned me on to that trick.Looks great cj! Now that you have it braced and flat a trick I use to do less damage to the spoil board is:
- Set the Z origin on top of your board in the software,
- Touch Z off on the MDF bed, then enter a negative value of the material thickness instead of zero. For a .75" board use -.75.
- Don't set any through cuts deeper than your material thickness.
This will make sure the bit cuts down to the MDF, but not into it. It also accounts for any thickness variations or warping your board may have.
Pretty. don't touch it ..
So chat about the gridding that is on it. Is that dimensional for lay out, or is it drilled for a vac table.
Looks great. I need to start over and follow 4 D's rules for not eating spoiler boards..