Replacement Bit Wrenches/Stuck Bit

WD isn't a lubricant...
consider a dry lube when you do need a lubricant..

VOE says WD is a mistake and all myth... it's a wet something or another that attracts all kinds of trash... does way more harm than good in the scheme of things... I've made a lot of money cleaning/fixing/replacing/repairing after the fact...
It makes for a humongous mess [remember this come finishing time] and if it gets into an electric motor kiss the motor goodbye... It's also prone to flash fire and really doesn't work all that well on anything but it's convenient...

I'm real partial to Triflow but most any dry lube will work well providing it's has Teflon/PFTE in it... [higher percentage by volume is more gooder]...
CRC, Tiolube, KG and DuPont each have several most excellent industrial spec DRY SOLID FILM lubricants..
Criteria - dries dry to the touch, high pressure load bearing, contains Teflon/PFTE, barrier forming, extreme temperature range, [usually -100 to +500F] isn't hygroscopic, does not collect dirt, not flammable in dry state, chemical resistant, does not contain silicone, has a long list of compatibles and is really very long lasting... or any of or all the features WD hasn't got any of....

one thing about dry solid film lubricants is that when you apply them and you think that you didn't apply enough you have probably applied too much..
very, very little goes a loooooooooooooooong way...
Just wait until you do your saw's arbor mechanism w/ dry lube.. you and your saw will never be the same... You'll treat everything that moves in the shop in short order... Please thoroughly clean whatever before lubing..
It's a great release agent too...
Dry Film Lubricants are high performance coatings made up of very fine particles of lubricating agents blended with binders and other special additives. Once cured, these lubricating agents bond to the part surface as a solid film which reduces galling, seizing and fretting and protects against corrosion. Through the combination of these properties, dry film lubricants greatly improve the wear life of coated parts.
Dry film/solid film lubricants allow for operating pressures above the load-bearing capacity of normal greases and oils. They are also less prone to collecting soil particulates than greases and oils. In some applications, the coating is self-burnishing, leading to improved, rather than decreased, performance over time. Some blends of dry film/solid film lubricants are also temperature and chemical resistant allowing for their use in harsh environments such as jet engines where exposure to aviation fuel and extreme temperatures are the norm.
This is the type of lubricant you want to use if you have a CNC.

AVOID using anything with silicone in it, because it seems to eventually get on everything including your project and you will have all kinds of finishing problems. Silicone products should be banned from the shop along w/ WD40.

WD will kill bearings in very short order.....
it dissolves the bearing's lubricant...

Bottom line - wet lubricants and saw dust don't go together!

ladysephiroth said:

Hi!

I have an old Sears Craftsman 315.17400 router that I used for a project a couple of years ago. It has 2 wrenches to change the bit instead of a locking mechanism (at least that's what Dad told me when he gave it to me.) I left the bit in it, probably not smart but....

And now it's stuck. I have the wrench Dad machined He'd lost one of them) that obviously worked because the specialized slot cut bit is in there and I used it, but I must have bent the wrench or something because it won't bite and hold it so I can get the bit out. My 2 questions are:

Can I just take it to Home Depot and get the right sized wrench or does it have to be a special wrench?

Can I put a little WD-40 on the threads to loosen it up a bit?

Thanks!

Click to expand...

I just brought up your service manual. The wrench is the usual cheap stamped steel type but your collet nut is unobstructed;the wrench doesn't have to fit in a narrow slot.You have a shaft lock so you only need one wrench. You don't need a tappet wrench or bicycle wrench or have to grind one to fit. From the scaled drawing on eReplacement it looks to be a little less than 1". The 315 at the start of your model number is is the manufacturer code for Ryobi so the wrench is more than likely metric. Go to Lowes or HD or the local auto parts store and match it up with a cheap wrench. Since you may have to apply a little elbow grease, don't buy a shortie.Even an adjustable wrench might do in a pinch. . As others have said,WD40 is not your go to rust buster. It is not the magic cure but PB Blaster and an over night soak may help and you can get it at Lowes and probably a lot of other places.