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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I decided I needed a new miter gauge for general work on my router table. The one I've been using got dropped and a big chunk broke off. The slot is the normal 3/4x3/8 so no big deal. I didn't want to use the INCRA that's set up for the bit oversize table saw slots so wandered Amazon. Some OK but way more bucks for my needs, others had a bunch of 1 and 2 stars. Then I saw a Porter Cable PCB220TS. Can't go wrong, right? WRONG. The bar wont fit either the saw or router table without forcing it - fixable with a bit honing and some fine wet and dry sand paper. That wheel for the 'T' slot wont work in either so it needs to come off. Not a big deal, there's a screw. OH S#$T, the Phllipps head - wallowed out. Back to Amazon and hope they honor my claim.

I did find a Craftsman head on eBay for not much money but it needed som minor work to use with the existing slot bar plus the existing bar needed couple set screws to tighten it in the slot. Works great
 

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The incra miter gauges i have are pretty good. I have 2 and they work quite well. They aren't oversized - exactly 3/4" wide. Some complain they are a bit lightweight but I haven't found that to be an issue.
I like them and no worries...
instead of using the cams put a layer or two of UHMW tape on the side of the rail if the gauge is a skosh sloppy...
the tape lasts for about forever and adds slide smoothness...
you can also put the UHMW tape on the bottom of the rail if the rail is a fuzz light in thickness...
doing the bottom of the rail, sometimes, will correct the miter's face out of squareness to the table's top...
 

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Most of the better ones now have adjusters to control fit in the groove. Tool tests I've seen rated most Incras very high. The winner was JD Accumiter but they quit making them right after the test I saw.
 
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I like them and no worries...
instead of using the cams put a layer or two of UHMW tape on the side of the rail if the gauge is a skosh sloppy...
the tape lasts for about forever and adds slide smoothness...
you can also put the UHMW tape on the bottom of the rail if the rail is a fuzz light in thickness...
doing the bottom of the rail, sometimes, will correct the miter's face out of squareness to the table's top...
I was just in the shop today (practicing social distancing) and checked both of mine. No perceivable slop at all. I suppose I could use my dial gauge to see what it really is but that's kind of overkill.
 

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I was just in the shop today (practicing social distancing) and checked both of mine. No perceivable slop at all. I suppose I could use my dial gauge to see what it really is but that's kind of overkill.
did you use the slot adjusters???
I ditched mine and went w/ the tape...
made it way smoother and very snug fit...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Folk - my OP was NOT about an INCRA but the POS Porter Cable miter gauge I bought to replace the broken OE JET that I've been using on my Grizzly router table. I have an INCRA for the table saw and it's great.

I just didn't want to fuss with those very difficult to adjust nylon slot width adjusters for the router table and can't justify a hundred plus bucks for a second one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I copped a roll of UHMW Tape Roll off eBay - will see if your sage advice helps my slightly sloppy nonadjustable miter gauge,
Stick...
Now that the thead has wandered......:crying:

If it's a solid 3/8 x 3/4 steel bar, drill and tap a couple 10-32 holes and use 1/4" long set screws and adjust to fit the slot. Thirty minutes tops to do this mod
 

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Folk - my OP was NOT about an INCRA but the POS Porter Cable miter gauge I bought to replace the broken OE JET that I've been using on my Grizzly router table. I have an INCRA for the table saw and it's great.

I just didn't want to fuss with those very difficult to adjust nylon slot width adjusters for the router table and can't justify a hundred plus bucks for a second one.
they wear and go sloppy anyways...

I copped a roll of UHMW Tape Roll off eBay - will see if your sage advice helps my slightly sloppy nonadjustable miter gauge, Stick...
if it fits really snug almost tight you'll find that the tape will polish the wall of the miter slot...
the tape compresses...
the tape is about/almost 2 playing cards thick...
 

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Now that the thead has wandered......:crying:

If it's a solid 3/8 x 3/4 steel bar, drill and tap a couple 10-32 holes and use 1/4" long set screws and adjust to fit the slot. Thirty minutes tops to do this mod
great way to tear up the miter slot...
and if it's an aluminum top... consider the slot trashed...

VOE....
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
great way to tear up the miter slot...
and if it's an aluminum top... consider the slot trashed...

VOE....

Not really worried.

That router table miter slot if it ever wears that much, a (very) few bucks, $8.50 to be exact will replace that track. That miter gauge will never be used on my table saw.

If you bother to read my OP and subsequent Posts #8 & 10 trying to get the thread back from the hijack I have an INCRA for the iron top table saw.

Additionally, I really doubt that two 1/4" set screws would hurt that iron top table saw when the original miter gauge has a hardened steel rail.
 

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Just out of curiosity Dave what do you use the miter gauge for on your router table?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Just out of curiosity Dave what do you use the miter gauge for on your router table?
Seldom used except for short edges, i.e. 2" piece when the long side is 4 or so inches and normally with a bit like a round over. I like to keep the piece squate to the table fence and my finger tips unshredded by the bit.
 

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For another way to skin the same cat, I built a miter jig that just slides along the edge of my router table instead. A picture is somewhere in my uploads. It also allow me to clamp the piece to the jig so it doesn't move on me. I use it for doing half laps and for the ends of stiles. It eliminates the need for a miter slot for those jobs that way. And it costs nothing because you can make it from shop scraps.
 
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