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David
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok, here's the restoration story of my PM66. As I said in another post this is something I did a few years ago but just realized I never posted it here at Router Forums. So y'all sit back for an interesting ride and feel free to comment. You can even offer suggestions as to how you would have done things differently although I'm fairly certain I won't be going back and redoing much if anything because the saw is working perfectly and is used daily. Also, this will be almost verbatim what I posted on a couple of other forums in December 2014. There is a lot to read but the little story below sort of sets it all up, so if you read nothing else read this below -

David

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This will be a long post, be forewarned. You may or may not follow along, you may get bored, you may look at the photos only and never read a word of what I write, you may look at this and wonder why I even tried to restore this saw (and jointer but I won't be covering the jointer here), but I can pretty much guarantee you'll like the results of my efforts. So dive in, gander at what you want, offer comments, or just come back once in a while to see what I've done - I took over 300 photos but I won't inundate you with all those. I will post about 70, though.

This post is more about me documenting what I've done to restore these tools and wanting to share the process than seeking guidance or help. You'll see things you may have done differently or not at all but I do hope you enjoy the trip - David

Here's the background and a prerequisite for understanding how all this took place -

Several times I have mentioned in posts that I owned a woodworking business in the mid 80's to early 90's. I partnered with an old friend in the late 80's and we were a good fit together for the work we did. It was a good business and at one time we had about 8 people working for us. In 1990 we bought a Powermatic Model 66 table saw and a Delta DJ-15 jointer. When I decided a few years later to get into the Technology field my partner and I worked out a deal for my exit, for the business I had brought in, and since I owned all the other tools anyway I wanted access to the shop for my own projects.

Well, a year went by and he did decide to close the business but I had no home shop or place to store the saw and jointer. But another friend in the same business needed both and asked if he could use them. He had done some work in our shop before and even rented some space from us at one point. He used our/my tools and took good care of them. So I decided to let this other friend take both tools to his shop and for the next few years I checked in on my tools often. Then it got to the point where I checked on them every few years. Finally, after many years of not seeing them and still not having a home shop, I sort of wrote them off.

Then, a few years ago, a friend at church told me he heard that the guy who had borrowed my saw and jointer had abandoned them in an old building, that the motors were burnt up, and they were likely just boat anchors now. I viewed it as my fault for not checking on them and my fault for even loaning tools like that out - stupid move, really.

I found out where they tools were located and couldn't believe where they were and what I found. A woodworker friend, Adam, went with me figuring we'd find the tools covered in sawdust and just neglected. We were not prepared for what we found.

Looks like a vibrant neighborhood from the front, right? I was concerned about even having my MINI parked there!
Where I found my saw, jointer 4.jpg

I looked in through the broken glass and iron bars and saw this –
Where I found my saw, jointer 1.jpg

Driving around back we saw this locked door –
Where I found my saw, jointer 3.jpg

I couldn't get my phone in very far but I took this shot. If you look closely you'll see a contractors table saw in the dark area to the left. My saw and jointer aren't really visible but they are behind the contractors saw. The sunlight shining in is not from a skylight. The roof is simply missing in several areas, including where my saw and jointer were parked.
Where I found my saw, jointer 2.jpg

We left and came back in Adam's truck and I had a guy who had worked there meet us because he had the combination to the lock to get us in the back door. Adam and I loaded the saw and jointer into the back of his truck by ourselves - these are HEAVY tools! And I was still in my dress clothes, didn't even take my tie off. We stopped for a bite to eat and I snapped this shot - one guy walked by and asked if we were headed to the dump. :nono: Uh, nope!
PM 66, Delta DJ-15 - as picked up.jpg

More soon... David
 

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David
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Discussion Starter #3
We got the tools home and into my garage where I could really see how bad they were. The saw was directly under where the roof had been leaking, apparently for quite some time. This is some seriously deep rust! I know a lot of people would have just given up at this point but I do like a challenge. One thing I found that I knew I would have to deal with at some point is that the center was about 0.090" below the perimeter of the table corner to corner and about 0.075" across the middle. I couldn't tell if it was rust build up on the perimeter or if the saw top actually dipped that much near the blade. All I could do is clean it up and see what I had to deal with.

Saw table rusted.jpg

I started by dry sanding with 80 grit. A LOT of dry sanding with 80 grit.
Dry sanding the rust.jpg

I switched to finer and finer grits, even using a 1/3 sheet air operated orbital sander with wet/dry paper and WD40 with 3 in 1 oil. After a couple of weeks doing this just about every night and as much as I could squeeze in on weekends, I got it cleaned up enough to move on to the inside. When I got it to this point I measured again and found the dip in the center from corner to corner was down to below 0.050" and across the middle was down below 0.030" so some of that had to be rust build up. That's still not close enough but it's going the right way.
Saw table cleaned.jpg

When I took the top off this is what I found –
Trunnion, arbor - rusted, locked.jpg

After getting the trunnion to move I felt there was hope after all, that I could get this fine tool back into working shape. Until I tried to get the pulley off the arbor, that is. I used penetrants, mild heat, dead blow hammer, heavy mallet on blocks of wood - basically anything I could think of to get that pulley off. No luck, no success, no movement at all... for over a month. Almost every evening, just about every weekend, I would try to get this pulley off.
Trying to remove pulley.jpg

Alternately I turned my attention to getting the height adjustment shaft out of the trunnion. I finally got it to rotate but it was bent and would not come out. It would move back and forth a little bit but I couldn't drive it out. I think when it was loaned out they must have dropped the saw or in some fashion bumped it pretty hard, maybe it leaned hard in their truck - I don't know. There was a mark on the handwheel and the knob was slightly bent.

Because I was having to pry/hit/pound so hard to get it to move I figured I'd better give it some support, so I bandsawed this little Maple block to make me feel better about hitting on it so hard.
Shaft support.jpg

I began trying to straighten the bent portion of the shaft and finally resorted to filing it down so I could remove it from the trunnion. But the first thing I did after that was order a new shaft and worm gear - $14, not too bad!

Next, I took everything out of cabinet –
Trunnion, pieces - out of cabinet.jpg


And then every fastener and piece removable came out –
All pieces finally out.jpg

Now over on my workbench I got back on the pulley. Same technique of penetrants, puller, etc. and after another week or so it came off - whew! I didn't want to have to order that assembly 'cause I think it was a bit more pricey than the shaft I ordered.
Pulley finally off.jpg

The good thing at this point is that all the pounding had not damaged or broken any piece. Only the bent shaft needed replacing.
 

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David
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Discussion Starter #4
The cabinet is now stripped of all parts and cleaned as good as I could get it but there's WAY too much rust to paint over. At this point I figured my only choice was sandblasting. Until I got everything off I thought there might some remote possibility that I could wire brush it and primer heavy but that would never really work.
Cabinet cleaned but lots of rust.jpg

Here's the fence in all its glory –
Fence top side.jpg

Not really usable as is, I'm thinking.
Fence underside.jpg

And I can't even begin to see through this cursor. The brown specks are paint although it's hard to see that in the photo. But I figured I could replace the plastic without much effort.
Fence cursor.jpg

Here's the bottom side of the rail tube. I assume water stood for long periods between this and the angle iron rail. Pretty badly pitted. This is after quite a bit of cleaning, sanding, etc. It was almost as rusty as the top although cast iron has its own look with rust that's a little different from a steel tube.
Bottom side of rail tube.jpg

I asked Adam, my friend who helped me retrieve the saw and jointer, if he knew a good sandblaster. Turns out he had used a shop 5 minutes from my house. The guy was really nice and as I described the saw and its parts he just said he'd do it for $100, that he didn't need to know how many pieces.

So I began prepping everything for sandblasting. I can assure you that this takes a long time if you do it right. Each piece had to be thoroughly cleaned with Naphtha to ensure the duct tape would stay in place through the blasting. Prepping each piece with duct tape trimmed precisely where I did not want any blasting - machined surfaces, through holes for shafts, gears, etc. After all, if they blasted an area that I had not intended then it would have been my fault for not protecting it good enough.

I used cardboard secured with duct tape for the top and extension wings. Also, I wanted to preserve as much of the labels and Powermatic markings as possible, so I taped those off, as well.

After two nights working several hours each night and most of Saturday, I had the pieces ready.
Parts prepped for sand blasting 1.jpg

Prepped and ready for blasting –
Parts prepped for sand blasting 2.jpg

We took the saw in on Monday morning and they said it would take 3-4 business days to get to the saw for blasting. That worked out well for my timing to clean up in the garage and get ready for the saw to return. Only thing is they called Monday afternoon the same day about 4 and said it's ready and they close at 5. Oh, and it was about to rain so they suggested I come get it now before it starts to rust again. LOL! Quick service isn't always what you want :no:.

Adam and his truck were in town and available at that time so this all worked out for both of us. He lives 45 miles away and very little of this would fit in my MINI...

Parts back from blasting -
Back from sand blasting 1.jpg

Another view. I didn't send the plate that the magnetic starter mounts on because I wanted to use that to match the Powermatic Gold paint. The panel under the starter had never seen daylight and was not faded, rusted, or marked up.
Back from sand blasting 2.jpg

I'll post some more tomorrow, guys and gals - David
 

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Wow David, that looks like it was a massive job. Just curious, did you try the motors first? If they had been fried I might have given up right there.
 
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Thanks David, frugal and tenacious come to mind. Many people today would have thrown it away and bought new.
 

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OH hell with it!!! I'll just give this thread one BIG like!!

My Craftsman hybrid is slowly nearing the end of its usefulness. I don't see the value in investing in restoring it. So, bringing back to life an old standard is an option. Seeing what you started with and what you ended up with is absolutely inspiring. I will be following this thread with a great deal of interest. Thanks David, for taking the time and effort to document your adventure.

Bill
 

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David ----- get rid of that damn Mini and get a real vehicle..........F150, Sierra, Silverado, Ram!!!!! Or get one in addition to. Yup - crew cab - you sure wouldn't regret it after having it awhile.
 
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David
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Discussion Starter #11
Wow David, that looks like it was a massive job. Just curious, did you try the motors first? If they had been fried I might have given up right there.
If I remember correctly, Charles, the PM66 motor was off and sitting by the saw. That's about the only reason Adam and I could hoist this beast into his pickup bed by ourselves. I think if the motor had still been mounted it would have crossed the line for us being able to lift it that high. The shaft spun freely but I was taking them home anyway.

Thanks David, frugal and tenacious come to mind. Many people today would have thrown it away and bought new.
We considered that at one point, Steve, but there was sentimental value attached to the saw and a history that I just couldn't throw away.

OH hell with it!!! I'll just give this thread one BIG like!!

My Craftsman hybrid is slowly nearing the end of its usefulness. I don't see the value in investing in restoring it. So, bringing back to life an old standard is an option. Seeing what you started with and what you ended up with is absolutely inspiring. I will be following this thread with a great deal of interest. Thanks David, for taking the time and effort to document your adventure.

Bill
Thanks, Bill! To me it's fun to share these experiences. It helps me to document what I did in case I need to go back and revisit but some little piece of the story is bound to help someone else down the road when they go to do a restoration.

Nice restoration thread!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks, BT!

David ----- get rid of that damn Mini and get a real vehicle..........F150, Sierra, Silverado, Ram!!!!! Or get one in addition to. Yup - crew cab - you sure wouldn't regret it after having it awhile.
LOL! John, the MINI got upgraded to a brand new Countryman sometime during this restoration and has been since replaced by a Tacoma. This has been a good thing when it comes to hauling lumber, which I seem to be doing every two weeks or so, but I really miss the MINI - great cars!
 

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David
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Discussion Starter #12
Very interesting. I didn't see any mention of using electrolysis on the cleaning process or did I miss that?
No, Jon, I didn't do any electrolysis on this. I did it on the jointer and subsequently on the PM 54A jointer we bought. In retrospect it would have saved a good bit of time if I had gone the electrolysis route - not sure why I didn't do it on the table saw...
 

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Got some primer on this in a hurry before rain and rust coming back –
Primer has begun.jpg

Then I started looking for a match to the Powermatic Gold. Before anyone bothers to tell me, I have searched and searched and found all sorts of paint formulas and recipes and I've been to automotive paint stores looking for something that would be an exact match. I was not willing to settle for 'close' and I certainly wasn't going to paint it Powermatic Mustard Yellow or whatever it's called. My jointer is that color and it's fine for that but this saw is a 1990 and came in PM Gold so that's what I wanted.

Several automotive paint stores locally said they could get a perfect match but the cost was around $150 for the catalyzed finishes and clear coats they recommended. I'm too frugal (cheap) to spend that much on paint for a table saw. So I kept searching... for two years the saw sat in the shop, primed and ready. I painted all the internal pieces black right away and they were ready. Each time my daughter asked me to build her a small table or something I just said, 'When I get the table saw together' and it sort of became a standing joke around here.

But still it sat on its side, like this, for two years. (Update 3/11/17 - As I look at this photo I can't believe how much the shop has changed. We've added the Laguna bandsaw, SuperMax drum sander, CNC machine, lumber is now stored vertically, we have a French cleat around the shop, and lots of other changes - wow!)
Primered cabinet.jpg

At least I had done all the body work right after I primed it, so that was out of the way.
Bondo bodywork 1.jpg

More Bondo work –
Bondo bodywork 2.jpg

I used the side of the cabinet as a resting spot for small pieces and the inside for parts and sandpaper storage. It had become a fixture in the shop, sad to say.

Then, after two years, I announced to my wife that I had decided on black and would start painting right away (late October 2014). She just laughed and said she would have painted it black two years earlier if it had been up to her.

But I decided I wanted the inside of the cabinet white for higher reflectance when I needed to see inside there. I no longer have those young eyes that can see in low light so white made sense.
Cabinet inside painted white.jpg
 

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LOL! John, the MINI got upgraded to a brand new Countryman sometime during this restoration and has been since replaced by a Tacoma. This has been a good thing when it comes to hauling lumber, which I seem to be doing every two weeks or so, but I really miss the MINI - great cars!

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OK -- I'll give you the Tacoma. I think they're assembled by you someplace aren't they? It's a start. But once you drove a real truck for a while you'd never go back. Gonna get rid of my F150 this year I think -- Ram or Jimmy this time I think, since I don't get the Z plan anymore.
 

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David
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LOL! John, the MINI got upgraded to a brand new Countryman sometime during this restoration and has been since replaced by a Tacoma. This has been a good thing when it comes to hauling lumber, which I seem to be doing every two weeks or so, but I really miss the MINI - great cars!

*****************************

OK -- I'll give you the Tacoma. I think they're assembled by you someplace aren't they? It's a start. But once you drove a real truck for a while you'd never go back. Gonna get rid of my F150 this year I think -- Ram or Jimmy this time I think, since I don't get the Z plan anymore.
Yeah, it isn't a real truck. And it's not even a good Toyota!! It doesn't give you the outside temp (you have to buy a cheaper Toyota or a more expensive Toyota to get that little luxury), it doesn't auto lock the doors, doesn't auto turn on the headlights, it doesn't even have a place for the gas cap when you open the little access door. I mentioned all this to the sales guy and he shrugged, said he can't add all those things (and I know he can't). And for a 6 cylinder it gets poor gas mileage - about 18 on the road, 17 in town.

My MINI Cooper did all that and tons more and cost a grand less but I can only haul small sticks in it. I should've gone next door to Ford...
 

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This is a great thread. Thanks David for going to the trouble of showing us.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
This is a great thread. Thanks David for going to the trouble of showing us.
Thanks, Ross! I'm having fun going back through all of this and getting to live through it again, vicariously through photos and the story this time but still enjoying going back through it.

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Ok, picking up where I left off - choosing colors for the cabinet -

For comparison, here's the new color on the left, 1990 Gold on the right -
Powermatic Gold, Mustard Yellow.jpg

Continuing on with painting everything in sight! Everything in white was brushed on very heavy and followed up with Rust-Oleum in rattle cans - High Performance White.

Underside of table –
Painted white under table.jpg

Underside of extension wings –
Painted white under wings.jpg


Moved it back to my spray booth for the cabinet (outside in the back yard, at night no less). I used Rust-Oleum High Performance Gloss Black Enamel in rattle cans from Lowe's. These have a decent spray tip and it went on well, smooth.
Painting cabinet black.jpg

Brought it inside after two good heavy coats. No bugs, no drips, no runs, no errors. I also caulked with black Silicone every gap in the base to the cabinet, every void in welding, every place where two pieces meet and didn't close up precisely. I have thoughts of later creating as close to negative pressure inside the cabinet as possible for dust control, although that may be a pie in the sky dream and is definitely not on the front burner. But sealing these up now was certainly easier than later with everything installed.
Painted cabinet black - not bad.jpg

Here's a sample of the cleanup process. This worm gear was encrusted with what seemed to be the equivalent of concrete. This packed sawdust/grease/rust combo would not soak off with any number of solvents I tried, would not wire wheel or wire brush by hand off, and I couldn't budge any of it with compressed air. What I ended up doing, for 3 hours one night, was to use a small brass rod sharpened on the end like a chisel and chip away at what seemed like each molecule of the crud. My hands were sore!
Worm gear, encrusted like concrete.jpg

After 3 hours it looked like this –
Worm gear after 3 hours cleaning.jpg

Many parts required the same attention to get cleaned and ready for assembly. No single part came clean with a good soaking in solvents or wire brushing. Every part required a lot of time and there were nights, like this worm gear, where I cleaned one part only.

Here is my layout table with parts, some ready and some soon to be.
Parts being prepped.jpg

I believe all of these are ready. And I got lucky on the angle scale. There was a blemish on it and when I tried to get it off it just started getting bigger, which wasn't cool. But then I looked a little closer and realized it still had the protective plastic on it from 1990. I peeled it off and there was a brand new angle scale under there!
Parts being prepped 2.jpg

Remember that height shaft that was bent and I had to support it with a wood wedge block because I was having to beat it out of the trunnion? And remember I said one of the first things I did was to order a new one? Well, I didn't remember the 'part ordering' because it happened two years ago. As I was laying out all the items for assembly I came across a bag I had not seen with some parts. Lo and behold there was a new shaft and worm gear... the same worm gear I had spent 3 hours cleaning a couple of days earlier!! Bummer! Of course, those are new bearings on the arbor.
One new part amongst the old.jpg

I'll finish this tomorrow, folks. Thanks for following along and commenting even though this project is finished. You get extra points for reading everything but the points are not worth anything... sorry. LOL!
David
 

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In powermatic years, a 1990 model is a relatively young saw..

While doing the restore, did you find that parts were readily available? Affordable or at least reasonably affordable?

Painting the interior white is a great idea, may seem like a little thing, by adding the reflective quality of a light color should be of great help
 

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David
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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
In powermatic years, a 1990 model is a relatively young saw..

While doing the restore, did you find that parts were readily available? Affordable or at least reasonably affordable?

Painting the interior white is a great idea, may seem like a little thing, by adding the reflective quality of a light color should be of great help
I agree, Bill - fairly young for a Powermatic but old enough to be the 'right' color. And because we bought it new it had/has some sentimental value, at least enough to put forth the effort on a restoration.

Seems like the only parts I needed were the shaft and worm gear and that was very easy to get from PM. Bearings, belts, fasteners, etc. I picked up locally. Paint is the only sticking point - it's like PM wants to hold hostage the gold color by charging so much for rattle cans. I wasn't willing to play that game with them; black looks cool, I think!
 
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