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Discussion Starter #1
I bought my jig at woodcraft about 10 years ago for 79.00. I am not sure that it is in fact a Rockler. There are serveral jig out there that look a lot alike so you know which one I am talking about. Last week I was brousing around and came up on a thread where a fellow woodworking had modified his to where he had added blocks on each side to take the play out of it and added some side spaces and several other things and explained how much better it was. All this to say I didn't take any notes and now I can't find it again. Does any body know what thread I am talking about? If so please lead me to it!!!

Thanking you in advance, Jimmy
 

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Hi Jimmy

I think this is the one you are talking about.

http://www.routerforums.com/general-routing/1555-first-attempt-dovetail-jig.html

one of the snapshots below
http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/general-routing/2184t-first-attempt-dovetail-jig-dt1.jpg

Just a NOTE Jimmy
You may want to give the Box Joint Jig that Bob & Rick (Oak-Park) sale to make dawers,it's quick and easy to make drawers with it. :)
You will be a Pro. the 1st or 2nd drawer you make with the jig,they are strong
and good looking and the best part is if you want a drawer that's 20" deep and 12" wide that's just how you cut the stock for one.
You can clamp this sides up as a pair and cut them at one time and the same with the front and back. :)
Put in the slot for the bottom and your done in about 1/4 the time it takes to make dovetail end drawers.
And you will not make any fire wood this way,
Just a NOTE*** if you get one or two of the jigs cut the slots just a bit long then glue up the drawer and then chuck up a Flush Trim Bit and remove the over hang on the pins.
And you will say that's no big deal to make drawers :) and you will be right.
It's easy with the jig from Oak-Park.
Just a NOTE*** with the Oak-Park jig you can make drawers that are 1" tall to 24" tall and 3/16" to 1 1/2" thick, stock try that with the Harbor Freight dovetail type jigs and it's allways the same setup more or less.
Plus you can make blind slot joints if you don't want them to show at all.:)
Or to say you don't want them to stick out on one side of the drawer.

http://www.routerworkshop.com/boxjoints.html

http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=boxj--


Hope this helps a bit

Bj :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
BJ, Thanks a bunch that was it! I have the box and dovetail jig that Bob and Rick sells at Oak-Park. You are right, it is a fast and easy way to make drawers. I have not used the jigs to make the blind slot joints, I will have to try that. Again, thanks for the help.

Jimmy
 

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You're Welcome Jimmy

Have a good one :)

Bj :)

"blind slot joints, I will have to try that."

You will need to make a quick jig for the Oak-Park jig to make Blind slots.

Take some hard wood, that's 3/4" 4" x 6" (lets use the 3/8" jig) put a slot across the grain 3/8" wide and about 1/2" deep, on one end of the stock about 1 1/2" from one end,now set the block on the Oak-Park jig on the rail now drill a 1/8" hole in the stock and the Oak-Park jig, about 1 1/2" from the right side of the jig, ( don't drill all the way down in the Oak-Park jig) now take the oak-park jig off the router table and take it to the drill press and drill a 7/8" O.D. hole 1/4" deep on the back side of the Oak-Park jig with a forester bit, now chuck up a 1/4" drill bit and drill a 1/4" hole in the Oak-Park jig.
Now get a 1 /4-20 x 2 1/2" carr. bolt and chuck it up in a hand drill and grind the head down to 1/8" thick. (use wing nut to lock it down on the jig)
Now the hardwood stop block, put in a 1/4" slot (across the grain) where the 1/8" is at, the one you justed drilled, about 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" long.
Now put the carr. bolt in the Oak-Park jig and tap it in place and then put it back on the router table.(it must set flat on the table)
I should note the 1/8" hole should be about 3/8" to 1/2" from the left side of the router bit in the router table when you start.
Once you have the block on the Oak-Park jig and it's on the rail now move it to the left just a bit and set it for the STOP block for the Blind Slots.
Once you have made a set you will need to remove just about 1/8" on the pins so it can hide the sockets and fit right.

Note*** you can cut the block down after you have the holes and slot in place, The 4" x 6" block ,just away to let you hold it when you put the slot in . just to be on the safe side. But just the part that's on the right side of the Oak-Park jig.

Hope this helps

Bj :)
 
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