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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My apologies for a long post (wanted to explain as much as possible).

I have RotoZip SS560VSC - it has done wonders for me in various capacities but mostly in freeform plunge cutting and circle cutting and I'm very happy with it.
I have a project underway where I need to make a gap in my decking corner uniform (see attached photograph).

I have used the Bosch Palm Router GFK125CE with a 1/4" shank, 1/8" downcut spiral CNC Router bit (1" cut depth) to make the other corners gap uniform - I use a guide (straight edge) clamped using "L" bolts (made from 14"-20 TPI all-thread rod and "Star" knobs) that fit through the gaps in deck planks. The Bosch Palm router (with the PR111 plunge base) does an excellent job of straightening out the deck planks that butt on the "picture frame" - that way I don't have to make multiple cuts on each plank to get the end gap even (the TREX plabnks are heavy!).
Unfortunately, I don't have the luxury of space for this particular corner (bad planning on my part and I was too confident since the other corners were so easy!) - there is a railing post close by and I can only use the Palm Router fixed base (PR101) - does not have a wide enought base to instill confidnece in being able to rout in a straigt line without a tilt (I tried on a corner mockup with scrap Trex Deck boards).

The RotoZip (also made by Bosch - surprise!) has discontinued it's Plunge Router Attachment PR2 - which would have made it ideal for this job with the BOSCH RotoZip XB-MP2 spiral bit or the DeWalt DWAMM18005 1/8IN Multi-Material Cut Out Bit.

There was another post (RotoZip Plunge Router attachment) that also inquired about the PR2.

Would appreciate the cumulative expertise of the forum to weigh in on options open to me (except making a router base (like some examples on YouTube).

Some Notes:
Clicking on "online catalog" on https://www.rotozip.com/en_us/ (www.rotozip.com/en_US/online-catalog ) goes to www.dremel.com! (Robert Bosch Tool Corporation now owns Dremel too!)
Dremel 335-01 Plunge Router Attachment (335-01 Routers | Dremel) is not the same as RotoZip Plunge Router Attachment PR2 - will the RotoZip SS560VSC fit the Dremel 335-01 Plunge Router Attachment?

One comment I came across - Post #8 (RotoZip Plunge Router attachment)
"just a possibility there was a larger dremel tool and it had a plunge router base and my dremel burned up but my roto zip fits it perfect. I believe it was a dremel 5000? I see them on e-bay every now and then."

RotoZip & Dremel (Robert Bosch 1-800-437-3635) has lousy Customer support (but great tools!) so they cannot ((will not?) let me know if the Dremel 335-01 would fit
the RotoZip SS560VSC. Nor can they give me some dimensions on the throat (where the Dremel fits in) so I can make a decision.
Any help from this forum would be appreciated.

My searches on Amazon, eBay, Google (ugh!) and DDG came up with didly squat for the PR2 but a lot for the Dremel 335-01.
Anyone want to sell me a Rotozip PR2?

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
My apologies for the wrong subforum post, but I couldn't find a "Rotozip Thread" like the "Dremel Thread" (Dremel Thread)
I know that the "Official" Router for this forum is the Bosch - an excellent router and I have a couple (palm and table).
I am looking for a RotoZip thread that discusses RotoZip as a router - for small tight spaces that a normal palm or fixed base router will not fit - that's where I like the RotoZip. Especially the RotoZip Router attachment PR2.
I have been looking for the PR2 attachment but come up only with references for the Milescraft 1225 and Dremel 335-01.
I know that the RotoZip Router Attachment PR2 is discontinued and the Milescraft will not fit the Rotozip (mine is the SS560VSC) and I'm not sure of the Dremel 335-01 fitting my RotoZip.
I like the RotoZip, rather than the Dremel (although both are part of Robert Bosch).
Would appreciate it if anyone guide me to a RotoZip thread - my search came up empty.

The following references are old, but come close to what I'm looking for.

John.
 

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I suppose it would be fairly easy to make a custom baseplate for the Colt. Make it bigger on the sides where you have more room in that corner. Use the original baseplate to mark the mounting holes in the custom one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I suppose it would be fairly easy to make a custom baseplate for the Colt. Make it bigger on the sides where you have more room in that corner. Use the original baseplate to mark the mounting holes in the custom one.
@TenGees: Thank you for your reply. Unfortunately, you may not have read my post fully or paid attention to the "(except making a router base (like some examples on YouTube) ". For various reasons, but mostly from the mechanical and material science parts, a custom base is not an option as it would be "fairly easy" if made from wood but would be bulky, not very stable and planar accurate. Probably why they make adapters and bases from metal. Also, a custom baseplate (unless I spend time in designing it) would be just plain hokey! I take pride in my work.
John.
 

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My apologies for a long post (wanted to explain as much as possible).

I have RotoZip SS560VSC - it has done wonders for me in various capacities but mostly in freeform plunge cutting and circle cutting and I'm very happy with it.
I have a project underway where I need to make a gap in my decking corner uniform (see attached photograph).

I have used the Bosch Palm Router GFK125CE with a 1/4" shank, 1/8" downcut spiral CNC Router bit (1" cut depth) to make the other corners gap uniform - I use a guide (straight edge) clamped using "L" bolts (made from 14"-20 TPI all-thread rod and "Star" knobs) that fit through the gaps in deck planks. The Bosch Palm router (with the PR111 plunge base) does an excellent job of straightening out the deck planks that butt on the "picture frame" - that way I don't have to make multiple cuts on each plank to get the end gap even (the TREX plabnks are heavy!).
Unfortunately, I don't have the luxury of space for this particular corner (bad planning on my part and I was too confident since the other corners were so easy!) - there is a railing post close by and I can only use the Palm Router fixed base (PR101) - does not have a wide enought base to instill confidnece in being able to rout in a straigt line without a tilt (I tried on a corner mockup with scrap Trex Deck boards).

The RotoZip (also made by Bosch - surprise!) has discontinued it's Plunge Router Attachment PR2 - which would have made it ideal for this job with the BOSCH RotoZip XB-MP2 spiral bit or the DeWalt DWAMM18005 1/8IN Multi-Material Cut Out Bit.

There was another post (RotoZip Plunge Router attachment) that also inquired about the PR2.

Would appreciate the cumulative expertise of the forum to weigh in on options open to me (except making a router base (like some examples on YouTube).

Some Notes:
Clicking on "online catalog" on https://www.rotozip.com/en_us/ (www.rotozip.com/en_US/online-catalog ) goes to www.dremel.com! (Robert Bosch Tool Corporation now owns Dremel too!)
Dremel 335-01 Plunge Router Attachment (335-01 Routers | Dremel) is not the same as RotoZip Plunge Router Attachment PR2 - will the RotoZip SS560VSC fit the Dremel 335-01 Plunge Router Attachment?

One comment I came across - Post #8 (RotoZip Plunge Router attachment)
"just a possibility there was a larger dremel tool and it had a plunge router base and my dremel burned up but my roto zip fits it perfect. I believe it was a dremel 5000? I see them on e-bay every now and then."

RotoZip & Dremel (Robert Bosch 1-800-437-3635) has lousy Customer support (but great tools!) so they cannot ((will not?) let me know if the Dremel 335-01 would fit
the RotoZip SS560VSC. Nor can they give me some dimensions on the throat (where the Dremel fits in) so I can make a decision.
Any help from this forum would be appreciated.

My searches on Amazon, eBay, Google (ugh!) and DDG came up with didly squat for the PR2 but a lot for the Dremel 335-01.
Anyone want to sell me a Rotozip PR2?

View attachment 402114 View attachment 402115

John you could go the other route. Mark the 2 Trex boards where you want them cut and then dissasemble them enough to get them free where you can cut them with out interference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
John you could go the other route. Mark the 2 Trex boards where you want them cut and then dissasemble them enough to get them free where you can cut them with out interference.
Marco,
Thank you for the reply. Your idea would be the most logical but unfortunately, not very practical and time consuming. I think you are not familiar with Trex decking. They are assembled with "hidden fasteners" that automatically space AND clamp the boards lengthwise (they ride in grooves so are difficult to take out - see attached photo). If you take a closer look at the photo I attached in my original post, you can see them in between the deck boards. I would also have to disassemble the railing, balusters, posts and the post skirts - see attached photo for a better view of scope (the extreme right post has the corner in question). Another wrinkle would be that I would destroy the boards - the outer board is square edged (does not have a groove so presents a uniform appearance from the outside) and is screwed to the deck understructure with hidden fastener screws and matching plugs - see photo of screws attached. Needless to say, the screws are double threaded.
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I built several decks (6 or7 years ago?) with Trex and the edges were not grooved. Installation was screwed in from the top through pre-drilled holes. I haven't paid attention to their hidden fasteners and grooved edged boards but after looking they are well worth the cost and effort when you see the finished product! Did you use butyl tape on the top of the joists?
 

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Some good questions there, John.

I take light hearted umbrage at the suggestion that the "Official" Router for this forum is the Bosch ...... :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I built several decks (6 or7 years ago?) with Trex and the edges were not grooved. Installation was screwed in from the top through pre-drilled holes. I haven't paid attention to their hidden fasteners and grooved edged boards but after looking they are well worth the cost and effort when you see the finished product! Did you use butyl tape on the top of the joists?
Hi Marco,
This is off topic but I thought I'd like to add some comments in case it is useful for someone.
I'm glad you have a lot of experience with TREX decking products, so you will be conversant with some brief details I included below.
TREX does make both grooved and square edge boards - they will warranty their decking products (all - including their joist butyl tape) ONLY if it is installed with their recommendations. The Warranty is free replacement within 25 years. One of their recommendations is to use their "Hidden Fastener Systems" and gapping which allows the deck to expand and contract without stress, warping Wood Plant Natural material Wood stain Line
and buckling. They do not recommend deck screws. Aesthetically they don't look all that great and requires a tremendous effort to equally and consistently space the boards (and screws!), predrill and avoid "mushrooming" around the deck screw heads. The clips with their SS screws work perfectly and can be inserted at the "extra blocking areas" that would otherwise look odd with their inconsistent spacing - take a look at photo I posted originally. (I've added a "Extra Blocking" photo here on another deck as an example). Since the rim board is Square Edged, they make a router bit that mimics their grooved profile (Needs to be done only where the clips are inserted for the sister grooved board). As far as I know, TREX has always had their hidden fastener system at least since 2015 that I know of. They have constantly improved their products and since their clips take most of the stress, they have switched to a glass filled (SMC) nylon one. I don't want to knock their competitors, but TREX is the best (but also expensive) product. I speak from experience as I have a deck built in 2001 that has withstood the test of time (and climate change!). The deck was replaced in 2010 by TREX because of a product recall (no idea why, since the deck was in excellent shape, but they did it anyway!)

To answer your question: I do use the Joist Tape for all my decking under structure. Before they made it, I used Henry's to paint the top of the joists, rim, ledger, etc. Both products, kept my deck under-structure rot free.
John.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Some good questions there, John.

I take light hearted umbrage at the suggestion that the "Official" Router for this forum is the Bosch ...... :)
My apologies James. I read somewhere on a "sticky" about the "official Router" - I'm very sure RouterForums don't want to denigrate other brands. I presumed that the "official" term came from "Bosch" being the most widely used or questioned.
My mistake.
John.
 

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No problems, John,

I have 2 Tritons, 2 Makitas and 4 other routers.

I believe the guys that started this forum many yrs ago, Bob and Rick Rosendahl did not use Bosch routers.....LOL.....
 
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