For work that size, if I were doing many of them i'd mill some scrap the same thickness and mount it so that the piece drops in and is captured. This would give the router a stable base to ride on whilst using a bearing guided bit from above to make quick work of the rounding over.

earl

 

You could go either way (Victor?). That's a small bit that doesn't take much bite so would be fairly safe on a table and it's an operation where there is no problem to start and stop and start again which allows you to keep repositioning your hands.

You didn't say how thick the sapele is but if it around 19mm that would allow you to put stops that are around 6mm thick around it to hold it so you could do it freehand which would be faster since you could do it without stopping. If you do it that way I would take a scrap of panel (ply, mdf, osb) and fix 2 stops near an edge and then clamp the 3rd stop along the edge with F clamps.

By the way, welcome to the forum.

 

Victor, this type of job cries out for a jig. If you look at the photo for routing the edge of a wine bottle holder you should get the concept. This jig is for cutting a shape. In your situation the bottom support would be cut back to allow clearance for a table mounted round over bit. Notice that there is an extended surface for your bearing to contact before the bit starts cutting the wood. This is an important feature you should use for safety. The self adhesive sand paper increases the grip on the wood. I suggest a larger toggle clamp as this one didn't have enough gripping power. This keeps your fingers safely away from the bit and makes repeatability a cinch.

 

Thank you very much for your suggestions guys. Much appreciated.

I think I will buy a table, and one of those perspex circle guards. I will buy a smaller hand router, (Bosch GKF 600 / Dewalt D26200)? that will also fit the table, so I can try both ways you suggested (table and freehand)

The Sapele wood is only 15mm thick and I have slight variations that need the 'round over' on both sides. I think 1/8 bit will be perfect.

Will also look into the Jig and 'drop in' ideas you suggested. Never thought of that!

Thanks again

 

I think for something like that, I'd probably just use my small power sander, and run the edges over the sandpaper by hand. Not really any effort involved, and fast. I originally tried a roundover bit on my canes, and found I could do a better job, faster, and easier with the sander. But if I was going to use the router for small pieces, I would definitely have something to hold the piece with, besides my fingers.

 

Thanks for notion, but the edges have to be uniform and perfectly rounded. I have various sanders and have done by hand, but it takes ages to get the edge I'm after. As I said, sanding is begining to take a tole on my wrists so the router would really help.

This is the sort of edge I hope to get:

 

When I rout small pieces I use my table and simply hot glue them to a bigger piece. The hot glue holds really well and can easily be removed without leaving any glue marks, Simply heat it back up. This way I get to hold onto my fingers for another day.

 

Victor, watch this slide show video: Router Forums - Router and Woodworking Video: Safe free hand routing / Building a vacuum bit guard

 

Thanks Mike. Very helpful video!

 

Hi Victor - 15cm x 15 cm isn't terribly small, about 6x6". I've found for things about that size one of this type of push block works very well and keeps your hands well away from the bit. I use this method regularly to round over the edges of shop made knobs that are typically about 4" in diameter. They are a bit thicker though so I needn't watch out for the bearing as it doesn't come above the stock.