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Frank
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was asked to build a round table top for a steel outdoor table which is now used to work puzzles in an enclosed patio. The problem was that the table had a steel ridge around the edge. Since plywood is not 1/4", I was able to use it and it barely rises above the edge.

To make the circle, I built a router trammel, similar to the one found in Woodsmith magazine using a 2" wide Al ruler. I changed the center point to a block of wood with a 1" dowel that can be attached to the work service with double stick tape. No need to drill holes in work piece. Also, I routed a test piece to be sure that the top would fit the table.

The next problem was that the steel table had a center hole to hole an umbrella. You can see this in the pictures. To keep the top flat, I built a jig that would allow me to route a recess in the bottom of the round top. Was not sure how this was going to work in such a thin piece, but it does what I wanted.



Machine tool Machine Tool Wood Table

Completed Router Trammel

Cat Small to medium-sized cats Wood Black cat Felidae

Center blocks for Router Trammel
Ruler Tool Calipers Measuring instrument

Center block of Router Trammel attached to Al ruler. This is used to determine the finished radius.

Wood Plywood Hardwood Floor Wood stain

Test piece to be sure circle was the correct diameter of table.

Product Table Coffee table Circle Outdoor table

Steel table used to work puzzles. Wanted a top made of wood.

Mesh Circle Pattern Net Ceiling

Center hub in table top. Had to come up with way to make new top to lay flat.

Wood Sand Circle Architecture Beige

Jig used to route out material so table top would lay flat on on steel table. Used double stick tape to hold jig in place.

Table Coffee table Wood Furniture Plywood

Finished piece of plywood.
Property Room Furniture Table House

Finished table. Used three coats of Arm R Seal Urethane.
 

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Nice. I have two tables like that, one large, one small and they are fairly usless for holding anything but cold drinks. Nice solution. Did you do anything to smooth the edge. I can see the possibility of splinters.
 

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Frank good job on the jig(s). The top looked very good and great when finished and set up! A couple of questions on the plywood, how thick? White Oak Plywood? Where did you buy it?
 

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Frank
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Frank good job on the jig(s). The top looked very good and great when finished and set up! A couple of questions on the plywood, how thick? White Oak Plywood? Where did you buy it?
Marco,

I bought the Oak Plywood from Lowes. It was labeled as 1/4" 4'x4'. The actual thickness was .203". This is why it worked so well to fit inside the steel rim. It was a little proud in thickness, but it has worked well.
 

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Marco,

I bought the Oak Plywood from Lowes. It was labeled as 1/4" 4'x4'. The actual thickness was .203". This is why it worked so well to fit inside the steel rim. It was a little proud in thickness, but it has worked well.
Thanks for the info. I am looking for some white oak plywood either 1/2" or 3/4" that is 4' x 8'. Lowes doesn't carry that size even for ordering. My local hardware store can order it but I hate buying something sight unseen.
 

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Frank
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Update to this project. The customer said that the plywood was slightly warping and did not lay flat to the table. They did not want it permanently attached. After looking at several idea, I came up with the idea of using 5/16" carriage bolts. As you can see from the picture, I used my metal lathe to flatten the head. Did this for 19 bolts. They were placed on the table about 7" apart. Used a washer and wing nut to attach. I them applied Gorilla glue to the head and place the plywood back on the table. Left it clamped for 24 hours before removing the clamps. So far it is holding. PS. Customer wanted a solution that would allow the top to be removed in case they painted the table.
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