rounding over edge of a seven foot long plank
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Depending on the size of the round over bit (match the speed of the router. the larger the bit the slower the speed) and how round/far in you want to go, either way, the trick is to make very small passes each time and taking off very little at a time.
this way if you mess up you van go slightly deeper and remove that. also move the router at a steady speed to avoid burns.
Make sure the round over bits bearing doesn’t go under the wood and go with the grain.
this way if you mess up you van go slightly deeper and remove that. also move the router at a steady speed to avoid burns.
Make sure the round over bits bearing doesn’t go under the wood and go with the grain.
When you're routing the edge you want to avoid having your router tip over slightly because it will take a nice bite out of your profile.
You can clamp your board to a table. Obviously make sure the clamps aren't in your router's travel path. Now set up another pine board an inch or two away from the one you're routing (parallel to it) so that your router base can rest on it instead of floating in mid air. Or... similar way to achieve the same thing, take a small scrap of pine the same thickness as the one you're routing and attach it to the underside of your router using double-stick tape. This will support the part of your base that would normally be hanging over the edge.
And of course as mentioned above, several small passes.
Good luck,
Michael
You can clamp your board to a table. Obviously make sure the clamps aren't in your router's travel path. Now set up another pine board an inch or two away from the one you're routing (parallel to it) so that your router base can rest on it instead of floating in mid air. Or... similar way to achieve the same thing, take a small scrap of pine the same thickness as the one you're routing and attach it to the underside of your router using double-stick tape. This will support the part of your base that would normally be hanging over the edge.
And of course as mentioned above, several small passes.
Good luck,
Michael
an edge guide with a long bearing surface also works well to keep the router from tipping, or from causing a wavy appearance due to minor irregularities in the edge of the stock.
Practice practice practice.... try it on some scrap first to build up your confidence!
Also- make sure you're feeding in the right direction, and watch out for tearout if you're going to be cutting across the end grain
Practice practice practice.... try it on some scrap first to build up your confidence!
Also- make sure you're feeding in the right direction, and watch out for tearout if you're going to be cutting across the end grain
The best way to do a seven foot long board, is with a hand held router. Put a round over bit with a bearing, in the router and take a cut going counter clockwise, going across the grain first then down along along the length, then across the grain on the other end.
For the first cut I would not expose to much of the bit. After the first cut you can take a fuller cut. Hope this helps Woodnut65
For the first cut I would not expose to much of the bit. After the first cut you can take a fuller cut. Hope this helps Woodnut65
No guts, no glory! But then again, no second, third, fourth trip to the lumberyard......
Find something cheap to practice on. I like to use the 4-7 inch wide x 96 inch long offcuts left from a sheet of MDF. They machine great, are cheap, and can give you a good idea of what your profile is set to. I'm always impressed how just a slight change in bit height can give a whole different look.
Poplar is another good wood to practice on. It's a relatively cheap wood in my area, and it's easier on the cutters than MDF.
Save your scraps, they're always good for setup or practice!
Find something cheap to practice on. I like to use the 4-7 inch wide x 96 inch long offcuts left from a sheet of MDF. They machine great, are cheap, and can give you a good idea of what your profile is set to. I'm always impressed how just a slight change in bit height can give a whole different look.
Poplar is another good wood to practice on. It's a relatively cheap wood in my area, and it's easier on the cutters than MDF.
Save your scraps, they're always good for setup or practice!
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