[Toby A Skandier]

Hi, all. I’ve had limited luck that I cannot faithfully reproduce every time, so I wondered if there was a special double-roundover bit out there that I’m unaware of.

Here’s my desired project: I’m working with a 2x6. I’m using a cove bit on the four long side edges. This leaves a strip down the middle with sharp edges.

I’d like to round the 180 degrees of that middle ridge on each side without the need to flip the board, rounding half of the ridge each time, which has proven nearly impossible.

Is there a concave bit that can round two edges at a time on a strip of about 1/2”?

 

[Stick486]

welcome N/A to router fotums...


I have to admit that I'm having a tough time forming a picture in my mind...
can you submit a cross section of the profile you are trying to make/create???...
even if it's a crude hand drawn...
you can post pictures here from the device you are posting from...

 

[Cherryville Chuck]

I think if you can find a bullnose bit with the proper radius and long enough, that might do what you want. You’ll need an edge guide to use it.

 

[Stick486]

I think if you can find a bullnose bit with the proper radius and long enough, that might do what you want. You’ll need an edge guide to use it.

I thoughr bullnose too but wasn't sure...

.

 

[DesertRatTom]

Table saw for cove cutting. You can control the width/depth by changing the angle the wood crosses the blade. You could use a cove cutting bit for the narrow edges, but really large cove cutters are hard to find and you should use a router table for safety and accuracy. But you won't have control over the arc with that bit, that you will have with the table saw. Here's a video. It isn't really that hard to do on the table saw.

You can use your cove cutting bit to reduce the amount the saw will have to remove. The key is trapping the workpiece between two straight pieces and holding the workpiece down using push blocks. Using 2x6 means you can make a number of test cuts to work out the angle that gives you the right cut. You can also tilt the blade to change the arc. Sanding will likely be needed using this method.

 

[mimac]

If I am imagining the profile right I think an ogee might work.

 

[Stick486]

other variations...

Hemisphere...

Dish/bowl..

Ball..

Halfround..

 

[DesertRatTom]

I am also not sure I've pictured what you're doing either. It would really help if you drew the profile you are trying to make. doesn't have to be exact, although adding a couple of measurements would be helpful. Draw with a marker so it's dark, take a photo of the drawing and post that. Just store the picture on the device you're using to post with.

 

[Herb Stoops]

I am also not sure I've pictured what you're doing either. It would really help if you drew the profile you are trying to make. doesn't have to be exact, although adding a couple of measurements would be helpful. Draw with a marker so it's dark, take a photo of the drawing and post that. Just store the picture on the device you're using to post with.

What he is trying to do is cut a cove down the top and bottom of the edge of a 2X6. This leaves a 1/2" square strip down the center between the two coves and he is inquiring as to what bit he can use to round over the edges of the strip. I think the 1/2" bullnose that Chuck and Stick referred to is what he needs.

A double beading bit might work too.
https://www.amazon.com/Whiteside-Router-Bits-1480-Cutting/dp/B000K2C7ZY

Here is one i found for a 1/2" center rib to give it a radius.
https://www.amazon.com/Whiteside-Router-Bits-1480-Cutting/dp/B000K2C7ZY


Herb

 

[Stick486]

are you trying to make back to back coves???
is cove even the right descriptor here...
more profiles...

 

[Toby A Skandier]

Man, you guys are incredible! Bullnose for the win! Thank you so much.

To the rest of you, I’ve learned so much about the bits you’ve mentioned and demonstrated. I’m extremely grateful.

Here are some shots of a trial-run of my “hack job.” It was too dark last night to get a good shot of it.

My plan is to make the corners from a monolithic routed piece to ensure they line up better and require less sanding to match.

Thanks again, all. Feel free to ruminate and comment on my plans. I can’t help but learn from gracious experts such as yourselves.

BTW, I’m also considering a cove on the top of the profile as seen here, mainly to match the top rails, where I like it for thumb placement, and a full roundover on the bottom. Thoughts, preferences...?

 

[TenGees]

Maybe an Ogee on the edges, rather than the sides, of the board would give you the profile like the first pic.
Roman Ogee Bits - Lee Valley Tools

Be easier on a router table though.

 

[Herb Stoops]

Maybe an Ogee on the edges, rather than the sides, of the board would give you the profile like the first pic.
Roman Ogee Bits - Lee Valley Tools

Be easier on a router table though.

Good one Paul,
that could be done in 2 passes and with one bit. Instead of 3 passes and 2 bits.

Maybe a table edge bit #3296
https://www.amazon.com/Whiteside-Ro...=8-4&keywords=whiteside+table+edge+router+bit
Herb

 

[Herb Stoops]

Maybe an Ogee on the edges, rather than the sides, of the board would give you the profile like the first pic.
Roman Ogee Bits - Lee Valley Tools

Be easier on a router table though.

Good one Paul,
that could be done in 2 passes and with one bit. Instead of 3 passes ans 2 bits.

https://www.woodpeck.com/whitesidetableedge.html

Herb

 

[old55]

Welcome to the forum.

 

[Toby A Skandier]

The ogee is ingenious, guys! I have those bits but I could not see the design in my head. The fact that the ogee bit has a cove built-in and automatically rounds the bottom, which then can become the top of the mirror-image ogee looks like it might work perfectly. Thanks so much!