Yes, there is.

It all depends upon what type of fence you have as to what method you need to follow. Basically, you need to make the outfeed side of the fence stick out further (about 1/32 to 1/16 is plenty) then the infeed side. Zero out the bit to the outfeed side, and then run your stock. Make sure you apply pressure to your stock on the outfeed side.

 

Yes, an easy way to do this is to apply a strip of Formica to the outfeed side which will give you the required differential.

 

Bill, I agree with both the above answers but for "not applicable's" one you would have to make a dedicated fence, which is no big deal.

 

There are problems using a router table as a jointer. The TDC of the arc of the bit should be precisely (plus or minus .002 would be nice, but not likely) the same as the outfeed part of the fence. Setting that up takes a lot of time, and you'll always be using the table for other things besides jointing.

I understand about needing more room & cost, but even a small well built jointer will make woodmorking a lot nicer.

 

As has been suggested, a simple dedicated fence with Laminex glued to the out feed side is all that's necessary. There is however one BIG disadvantage, not many cutters give much more than a 2" cut, whereas the average jointer covers 6".
Jonathan, could you elaborate on the TDC of the arc statement, I'm sure that I'm not the only puzzled one here.

 

Jonathan, could you elaborate on the TDC of the arc statement, I'm sure that I'm not the only puzzled one here.

Harry,

If I had to guess, TDC (top dead center), he's sayiing that the outfeed fence must be exactly flush with the bit.

 

My router infeed and out feed fences are separate and adjustable so I just push the outfeed fwd.
A good straight edge across the out feed and the bit assures correct depth.
And, of course a spiral cutter is your friend in this process. With a spiral, TDC isn't a concern. At least, in my experience.
Gene

 

I am happy with mine, but as stated the drawback is the height of the cutter, around 50mm/2".

 

Mine are up cut (down, when in the table) Good dust collection helps, too.
Gene

 

Spiral carbide cutters may give a better finish, but upcut or downcut?

 

Hi

I use my RT all the time for a jointer, it's safe way of doing short stock (less than 14" long the norm.)

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/17316-bob.html

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I know you asked specifically about a Router table as a joiner, but you can also use a straight edge and a bit with the bearing on the top as well. Just clamp the straight edge where you want your new straight edge to be and rout away.

Just another thought,

Chris

 

In keeping with the *KISS* philosophy I will go with "n/a Timberwerkz" method, why compound a simple question ?

"G"

 

I should have PMed Harrysin. Sorry. I have a tendancy to overcomplicate answers to simple questions.

I agree, a good straight edge & pattern bit would work well.

 

If you can't get a piece of Formica (I could only find full sheets, not drop-offs), then you might want to look into some shims from Rockler to offset a split fence.

# Shims measure 2" high x 14" long.
# Includes six plastic shims in these thicknesses: four each of .010" gray, one each of .020" white, and one each of .040" blue (total thickness of 0.100" possible)

Rockler shims

 

You can also making it the way, with the fence at the left side

Santé

 

You can also making it the way, whith the fence at the left side

Santé

Won't that grab the material and shoot it across the room?

 

No, if you take out only 1mm maximum and with maximum diameter of bit
That go very well but just for taken out the saw mark

 

Hi Daniel

You need to insert in your post and picture file.

*** disclaimer ***
use at your own risk

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I have used the technique Sante' has pictured. When I do it I run the board through the opposite of the normal way. Instead of front to back I go back to front and only take light passes. It works great when you want to keep faces parallel. You need to be careful and use push sticks and hold downs.

Chris

 

Yes, but this way go very well to smoth edges of melamine panel sawed.
i ave a friend he maked an extention removable at the front of the router table to smoth large pannel
(board ?)

For Bobj3: the photo is on post 21

Santé