If you put a guide bush centering pin in the router then you could lay a straight edge over the point and scribe that line. However, when you rotate the router at all the line would be off parallel to a fence or whatever you wanted to line up for so I don't know what use it would be to you. Can you elaborate as to what you think you need it for?
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Hey, Michael; Bill Hylton's book, 'Router Magic' has very explicit instructions for making a clear base with 'cross hairs'. He also has included instructions for several other application specific bases.
If you don't have the book yet, you really want one!
If you don't have the book yet, you really want one!
Remove the base plate. Clamp two pieces of wood parallel, exactly the diameter of the router's base. Check by fitting the router between at both ends. Once set parallel, remove the router.
Divide the distance between the two pieces and make marks wider apart than the diameter of the router base. Draw a line connecting the marks. Double check to make certain the marks are precisely centered. Place the router over the line, between the boards. Place the router between the boards and use a marker to transfer the drawn line onto the router's metal base. See the diagram below.
Replace the sub base on the router, using a centering pin (Pix below) to center the sub base. You could mark the sub base with a white fine point marker, but if you remove the sub base you will want to re-center it.
Divide the distance between the two pieces and make marks wider apart than the diameter of the router base. Draw a line connecting the marks. Double check to make certain the marks are precisely centered. Place the router over the line, between the boards. Place the router between the boards and use a marker to transfer the drawn line onto the router's metal base. See the diagram below.
Replace the sub base on the router, using a centering pin (Pix below) to center the sub base. You could mark the sub base with a white fine point marker, but if you remove the sub base you will want to re-center it.
Attachments
I've got Patrick Spielman's router book. Does he cover the same info as Bill Hylton?Hey, Michael; Bill Hylton's book, 'Router Magic' has very explicit instructions for making a clear base with 'cross hairs'. He also has included instructions for several other application specific bases.
If you don't have the book yet, you really want one!
Here's a copy of the opening page on the DIY crosshair baseplate...
(I'm sure Mr. Hylton won't mind; I'm promoting his book! )
(I'm sure Mr. Hylton won't mind; I'm promoting his book!
)Attachments
Which of Hylotn's book is this page taken from"Here's a copy of the opening page on the DIY crosshair baseplate...
(I'm sure Mr. Hylton won't mind; I'm promoting his book!
Amazon US lists pages of books
If you desire a centerline on a router base for drilling holes vertically and at precise points where a drill press can’t be used then I would think something like this would be easier. I use this with my Kreg stepped drill bit for holes where I want to use pocket screws, but this design could easily be adapted for use with brad point bits of various sizes as well as forstner bits if they have the same size shanks (so you don’t need a separate jig for every size). These bits all have a pilot point enabling you to place the tip at a precise point you have marked on the wood. You’d have to customize the jig width and depth to allow for visibility below the bit during setup, proper height for the length of the bit and plunge depth needed, and stability to keep it standing vertically in use. I use stop collars on my bit to control depth so I don’t overdrill. I have used the heck out of this thing and it’s super easy to do and very accurate.
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