I've got Patrick Spielman's router book. Does he cover the same info as Bill Hylton?Hey, Michael; Bill Hylton's book, 'Router Magic' has very explicit instructions for making a clear base with 'cross hairs'. He also has included instructions for several other application specific bases.
If you don't have the book yet, you really want one!
I don't use a router to drill holes so I had not considered that possibility. Thanks Dan.Charles; he discusses the purpose in the clip I posted. Basically if you do a light pencil layout on your work piece ...obviously at 90deg to each other, and long enough that you can see the lines though the clear baseplate, you can bore precise holes.
The lines on the baseplate are scribed on the bottom of it so there's no parallax issue.
I'm not saying everyone needs one, I'm just responding to the OP's question.
What a great little jig. You're right about the DP being too small to use on wide pieces. I have a couple of metal drill guides, but they're pretty light duty. I wonder if I can drill holes into the jig the right size to fit those metal guides? Gotta check my Forstner set for the correct size. Looks like a couple of hours in the shop to make it.If you desire a centerline on a router base for drilling holes vertically and at precise points where a drill press can’t be used then I would think something like this would be easier. I use this with my Kreg stepped drill bit for holes where I want to use pocket screws, but this design could easily be adapted for use with brad point bits of various sizes as well as forstner bits if they have the same size shanks (so you don’t need a separate jig for every size). These bits all have a pilot point enabling you to place the tip at a precise point you have marked on the wood. You’d have to customize the jig width and depth to allow for visibility below the bit during setup, proper height for the length of the bit and plunge depth needed, and stability to keep it standing vertically in use. I use stop collars on my bit to control depth so I don’t overdrill. I have used the heck out of this thing and it’s super easy to do and very accurate.
The metal guides are 1/2" by 20 thread. You can thread wood with a metal tap but you could go with a friction fit too. You might have to go 1/64th under 1/2 to get a good enough fit. If you are going to try tapping a hole so that you could change sizes then the tap hole is generally 1/16th inch smaller than the thread size for 1/4 to 1/2" sizes.What a great little jig. You're right about the DP being too small to use on wide pieces. I have a couple of metal drill guides, but they're pretty light duty. I wonder if I can drill holes into the jig the right size to fit those metal guides? Gotta check my Forstner set for the correct size. Looks like a couple of hours in the shop to make it.