Rebelwork Woodworking· Registered
1" +1/2 is a 1 1/2 before you get to the cutter. I used a extension for doors one time., never do it again. You need to change the router plate and coping sled. Mines only 1/4 thick..
Well it just seems a shame that the coping sled I ordered for this project won’t work for me . I might be able to take it apart and replace the bottom with a smaller thickness plywood. So that would be for cutting the ends of the “rails”. I still have the same problem with the stiles. In one of my previous pictures you can see I had to add a 1/2” thick piece plywood to make he router base to make the cuts. I have watched tons YouTube videos of guys making the same cuts but none of them making modifications to their router tables or coping sleds .Hi Ketch, I suspect the problem may be the thickness of your coping sled. From the photos, it looks like the collet can reach at least the bottom of the router base, if not actually protrude through it. The underside of the table is routered out to accommodate the quickmount plate, which is itself sheet metal, not very thick. Your photo shows the bit clearing the table surface, but obviously not the coping sled.
Unfortunately I have zero experience with that type of router - they are uncommon this side of the Atlantic. But I would be surprised if its intended range of movement is too small to allow the use of the bit you show in the picture. Perhaps somebody who uses a similar Craftman can advise you on what may be restricting travel - the use of the extender is introducing a bunch of new problems, and is preferably avoided.
You might have to do without the coping sled. I made one, but abandoned it. Over the years, members have described various alternatives. I often just use a substantial scrap block, with two edges at right angles to each other: one edge bears against the fence, the other supports the workpiece. The block needs to be large enough to keep your fingers well away from the bit.
Ok I guess I can now try to make my own sled for the end cuts of the rails and sell the one I bought on eBay or something. This still leaves me with having to add a 1/2” piece of plywood clamped to the router table in order to make the cuts on the stiles. I didn’t think there was going to be so many Modifications needed to be made to store bought router equipment.1" +1/2 is a 1 1/2 before you get to the cutter. I used a extension for doors one time., never do it again. You need to change the router plate and coping sled. Mines only 1/4 thick..
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Using a sled takes the "if" out of the run...Ketch, consider doing without the sled, then you wont need the plywood. You just need a block of wood that is square to the fence, it will also act as a backer board to the piece you are cutting, to prevent tear-out. For safety, you can attach a vertical handle.
For the stiles, horizontal and vertical featherboards and a push-stick are all you need.
Thanks for the info. I’ve been using the sled with a 1/4” piece of scrap stock under the Rail to raise it up to a necessary height. It seems to be working OK so I think I’ll just stick with that set up. As for the stiles, i cant get the bit high enough above the router table to make the cut even with the router raised as high as it can go. Adding the collet extension to the bit an lowering the router to its lowest height leaves the bit to high to make the cut. So i have had to add a 1/2” plywood plate clamped to the router table and am able to then adjust the router to the necessary height.Using a sled takes the "if" out of the run...
Agreed, Jack, but if it means using a collet extender and bits of plywood to make up gaps?Using a sled takes the "if" out of the run...