Router bit rising up

Kerry,

I haven't had that problem but I suspect that a liquid wrench solution soaking for a while and some gentle back/forth motion may well convenience that collet to let go. I wouldn't try any brute force but give it some time to work in.
Good luck

did you put a MM dia in an imperial measure collet or vise versa???

Stick486 said:

did you put a MM dia in an imperial measure collet or vise versa???

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That is what it sounds like. You shouldn't be able to shim it with anything. I guess the Muscle Chuck could be bad.

and the shimming jammed the collet...
sounds like a brute force fix w/ collateral damage...

The MC is supposed to grip with about 4x the force of a standard collet so it should have held unless as suggested the shaft was undersize. 12mm is close to 1/2 so is a possibility. I also got a (cheap) bit once that was oversize. I couldn't get it into a 1/4" collet. Something went wrong at the factory on that one. I bought some bits off Onsrud a couple of years ago that were slightly off size on the cutting end (shanks were fine) and most had an E on the end of the model number (E for error?) so not all are what they are supposed to be.

If you can't get the bit out them I'm thinking that you bent the MC slot together and you need to remove the set screw and take a very thin bladed screwdriver and try and open the side apart where the screw goes. Then check to see if a bit that has always worked will fit in. If not then you've squashed it together.

I read that as the chuck isnt seized, he just wants a way to stop using foil as a shim.

Where did you get the bit from? mainland europe uses 12 mm cutters. UK and america uses 12.5mm (1.2")
use a calibrated tool to measure the shank. If its 12 mm dead, bin it. or youll just make the same mistake again next year.

Run the router fully up so the shaft is locked before you do much of anything. Foil is pretty soft, I'd concentrate on the fixes offered before relying on a shim. If the bit has always worked fine, then something else has happened, perhaps the height lock isn't fully tightened? The Triton is a pretty powerful machine and the resistence of the wood and a slightly loose height lock could result in creeping. I'd be very hesitant to spread the muscle chuck before doing all the other suggested checks.

I would take this directly to John Derosa at MC, [email protected]

Thanks everyone appreciate the suggestions.

Cheers, Kerry

I always use a rubber o-ring between the bit and armature shaft, it keeps from transferring heat, and if a bit gets stuck, I can loosen the nut as much as possible, put a board over the bit, and tap it down, that has always worked for me, I'm used to using a little tap to get Morse tapers loose on machines..

radios said:

I always use a rubber o-ring between the bit and armature shaft, it keeps from transferring heat, and if a bit gets stuck, I can loosen the nut as much as possible, put a board over the bit, and tap it down, that has always worked for me, I'm used to using a little tap to get Morse tapers loose on machines..

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An O-ring to give a guide to limit how far into the collet is a common good idea. But it has nothing to do with restricting heat transfer. If your bits are getting too hot then either they aren't sharp or you are going too slowly. The collet is designed to grip the bit and absorb a reasonable amount of heat without jamming.

But it sounds as if you are griping the O-ring and that is a terrible idea.

I'm wondering if you are using a 1/4" shank bit with a MUSCLECHUCk reducer sleeve because early on the reducer sleeves were out-sourced and they couldn't lock some bits. If this is so then do contact John.

Thanks Harry. I'm pretty peed off with John. I sent all my details:
The collet diameter is .484 or 12.28mm
I’m pretty sure it is not one of your collets. The MC does not come with a collet unless you specifically order on is that correct?
The bit itself is 234.5 or 5.96mm

I then had to prompt them for a reply, a reply that means nothing without more detail.
He said and I quote: your collet was not bored correctly.

Your comment is now starting to make sense and I'm wondering if the MC did come with the collet? Not sure what to do now.......

harrysin said:

I'm wondering if you are using a 1/4" shank bit with a MUSCLECHUCk reducer sleeve because early on the reducer sleeves were out-sourced and they couldn't lock some bits. If this is so then do contact John.

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Can I ask how do you think I should resolve the issue? I'm un able to get a 6 mm collet here. My favourite supplier is out of them, another says they won't stock them because they're for europe not here and Muscle chuck want a small fortune to ship one of theirs.

look on ebay.

That bit is a 6mm shank if that's the size it measures. Lee Valley sells a variety of collet sizes for $4.80 CAD last time I bought one. Their products are usually good quality. I think Rockler may also sell them out of the States and if I remember who and how much correctly they were $4 US. That would give the Rockler one a slight edge price wise and their shipping may be cheaper down there. Ours is high. I have 6mm, 8mm, 3/8, and 1/8 from LV. The 3 larger ones are 1/2 OD.

Kerry, one thing that I'm pretty certain of is that your problem isn't with the MUSCLECHUCK. Is the problem with only one bit or many, also from where did you buy the bit/bits? Here are three places in Oz where you can get reducer sleeves plus, as has been said, there are many more around the world including Ebay. Please do keep us up to date Kerry, I can guarantee that the problem will be resolved, we are here to help each other like no other forum that I have come across .


https://picclick.com.au/1-2-to-1-4-Engraving-Adapter-Router-Collet-Reduction-131700785094.html

https://www.makita.com.au/products/...12-7mm-1-2-plunge-router#standard-accessories

https://www.carbatec.com.au/1-4-1-2-router-collet

NOTE FOR A MODERATOR.

I must have had hiccups when I made the above post! Could you please delete the copies. Thank you. Harry