Router bit set

Contact Porter Cable first. Almost all bits have quarter inch, half inch or metric sized shanks (shafts) so the manual should tell you which. Then you can purchase any bits that fit the collet. Old routers sometimes have worn out collets. Collets are in two pieces, the outer part squeezes down on the inner part, which holds the shank. They are precision instruments with tolerances with a couple of thousandths of an inch between good and useless.

You do NOT bottom the bit in the collet. In face, a good trick is to put a half inch grommet (not a Oring) into the gottom of the collet and bottom the bits on that. Otherwise you drop the bit in and pull it up about an eighth of an inch. I find that that process requires 3 hands, so I use the grommet.

The inside of the spindle is slightly tapered so when you tighten the nut, it pushes the collet down and the taper tightens it up. You can see the tolerances are tight.

You can find many parts on ereplacementparts.com if you need them. There are also quarter inch adapters for collets and metric sizes as well. I am not familiar with metric so someone from up North will have to fill in that informaiton.

When loosening up a collet, you often find that you can turn it a bit to start loosening it, then it kind of sticks. You then loosen it a bit more and it releases.

If you have more questions, let us know. We like to help.

Wade. How to use the jig is something you can find on YouTube. As to bit sets for it, the fingers on the jig are where the bearing on the bit rides, so typically you're talking about a pretty standard dovetail set that will fit your router and match the thickness of your work piece. I have never had any happy results from this type of jig and went to a more modern jig where you move the jig on a table. Mine is a Sommerfeld jig, but there are other brands as well. I went to see a demonstration of the PC jig done by a serious woodworker and she was unable in an hour to turn out a single joint that fit.

With the PC jig you move the router with the pieces clamped in place. They must be positioned just so, and you need to have several practice pieces to set up with, and the inside and outside pieces must be set just so. With the other typo jig, you clamp the wood in place and move the jig over the table mounted router. My eyesight is getting a little weak, and I think I misread your post the first time. I know that on YouTube you can find a lot of videos on using this jig, including one by Norm Abrams. The manual is fairly helpful, but few people really read those anymore and sometimes the prose is hard to follow.

One thing that is very helpful is to mark the inside of every piece, and the up down orientation. You can lay the pieces out for a box and mark each end with a number from one to four. So one piece will have a 1 on one end, and a 4 on the other end. An arrow points up so you know what each piece is. Personally, I'd also mark a p for pin side, and t for tail so you don't get mixed up. It becomes very confusing and if you don't do the setup on practice pieces, you will become thoroughly confused as you make new parts and try to match them. Dovetails are beautiful, and challenging.

BTW, welcome, and I hope this has been helpful.