Been a little slow lately what with trying to get over an eye infection, but finally back at it. In my on-going attempt to get the shop organized, the latest project is a storage cabinet to fit in the bottom of my Rockler router table. I now have the cabinet construction completed, need to take it apart and apply the finish.
All the components for the cabinet completed, ready for assembly.
Clamping the corners while putting in the screws.
Close enough for Government work. Cabinet is 22" wide, 14" tall, to fit in the opening under the dust cabinet in my router stand. 16" full extension slides will be used.
Adding the rabbet for the back panel. A "Thank You" to Mike (in Detroit) for his recommendation of the Betterlee base, that really cuts down on the mess, although a little cumbersome for some operations.
Drawer parts ready for assembly. Usually make the drawer bottom rabbeted in on all sides, decided to try something different this time, and kind of like it.
Installing the drawer bottoms.
Hanging the drawers in the cabinet. Back panel left off to make it easier to work in there.
Making up the edge banding for the drawer fronts.
Planing the edge banding flush to the plywood slab. The banding was already ripped and "in inventory", cut to length with a little Japanese pull saw and planed flush - probably quicker (and certainly quieter) than setting up to do it on the router table.
Setting the drawer spacing with plastic shims. A little OCD, I adjusted the front height and spacing so that everything was symmetrical.
Finished attaching the drawer fronts and pulls.
Ready to add the holders for the router bits in the top drawer, bottom drawer will be used for the various bits and pieces - bushings, spare collets, wrenches, etc. that seem to accumulate over time.
I bought the plastic bushings to hold the bits, going to mount them in blocks of 3/4" MDF. I saw an article where the poster made blocks of MDF to hold multiple bits (4 - 6), thinking I would do the same and use them for holding similar bits. He also made a handle out of a piece of dowel with a wooden ball glued to the top so that the whole block could be easily lifted out.
A shout-out to Dave Falkner for his recent explanation of how to post the photos with captions underneath - I finally got it. Thanks.

All the components for the cabinet completed, ready for assembly.

Clamping the corners while putting in the screws.

Close enough for Government work. Cabinet is 22" wide, 14" tall, to fit in the opening under the dust cabinet in my router stand. 16" full extension slides will be used.

Adding the rabbet for the back panel. A "Thank You" to Mike (in Detroit) for his recommendation of the Betterlee base, that really cuts down on the mess, although a little cumbersome for some operations.

Drawer parts ready for assembly. Usually make the drawer bottom rabbeted in on all sides, decided to try something different this time, and kind of like it.

Installing the drawer bottoms.

Hanging the drawers in the cabinet. Back panel left off to make it easier to work in there.

Making up the edge banding for the drawer fronts.

Planing the edge banding flush to the plywood slab. The banding was already ripped and "in inventory", cut to length with a little Japanese pull saw and planed flush - probably quicker (and certainly quieter) than setting up to do it on the router table.

Setting the drawer spacing with plastic shims. A little OCD, I adjusted the front height and spacing so that everything was symmetrical.

Finished attaching the drawer fronts and pulls.

Ready to add the holders for the router bits in the top drawer, bottom drawer will be used for the various bits and pieces - bushings, spare collets, wrenches, etc. that seem to accumulate over time.
I bought the plastic bushings to hold the bits, going to mount them in blocks of 3/4" MDF. I saw an article where the poster made blocks of MDF to hold multiple bits (4 - 6), thinking I would do the same and use them for holding similar bits. He also made a handle out of a piece of dowel with a wooden ball glued to the top so that the whole block could be easily lifted out.
A shout-out to Dave Falkner for his recent explanation of how to post the photos with captions underneath - I finally got it. Thanks.