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Router bit won’t budge

1705 Views 14 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  biotec
My 1/2 inch router bit is fully stuck in the collet alongside the nut. I’ve tried torching it tapping it on its side, WD40, putting it back in the router but it doesn’t budge. Does anyone else have any suggestions?

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Tap on the nut to drive it upwards, then, insert a thin screwdriver into the slot to pry collar loose. Not too much pressure or it may crack.
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My 1/2 inch router bit is fully stuck in the collet alongside the nut. I’ve tried torching it tapping it on its side, WD40, putting it back in the router but it doesn’t budge. Does anyone else have any suggestions?
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Welcome to the forum @xavceg
G’day, and welcome to the forum….
@xavceg Try the tapping first. You might also try putting a screwdriver against the collet and tap it lightly. Not the nut, but he part of the collet that's peeking out from under the nut.

Don't overdo it, you're just tapping to get it to release. In this pix of a collet and nut, you can see what's inside the nut. The difference between tight and loose is a few thousandths of an inch. Do not lubricate this, or if you do, soak and clean it thoroughly before using it. If you damage the collet it could be dangerous to use. Gentle persuasion, tap, tap, tap.
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The nut pushes the collet down into the spindle, which compresses it around the bit's shank. It's not a good idea to force or over-tighten the nut. Some of the older collets were much simpler, which I suspect required more tightening than the modern ones to hold on to the 22,000 rpm chunk of steel.
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open your vice just enough to pass the router bit shank through with the bit/blade pointing up and shoot it with some wd40 and using a block of wood and a rubber mallet smack the bit down so the collet goes down into the vice opening.
Hit a couple of times. It will come out.
There are two types of collets. The Porter Cable style has the collet attached to the collet nut. Then the Makita style the collet is not attached to the collet nut. Yours looks like a PC style. As others suggest maybe clamp the nut in a vice and GENTLY tap on the bit after applying some penetrating oil. Obviously you have some contamination and the bit is stuck in the collet.

Collets are basically a W shape. As you tighten up the collet nut it drives the collet up into an inclined plane in the router drive shaft and the collet is tightened. As you loosen it the collet can relax and the bit comes loose. Often the Makita style you have to tap on the collet nut while still in the router to get it to loosen. The PC Style drags the collet down the incline ramp of the router shaft. So if the collet nut did not loosen the collet up when pulled down there is debris or rust holding onto the bit.

When you get this resolved you need to clean all 3 pieces, collet, collet nut and bit. Personally I would replace the collet and nut after you get through beating it up. As long as you dont dent the bit it may be good but you certainly need to use some 600 grip paper on the bit shaft.
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You said you tried heating without success. Put it in the freezer for a couple of hours. You are looking for differential thermal expansion of different materials. The component materials will shrink when the temperature is lowered.
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Just chuck it back up in your router with the nut only hand tight. Wack it with a piece of hard wood. It will break free. Next time use a rubber o ring in the bottom and don’t super snug the bit.
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That Nut/collet looks like a Bosch. Just screw it back on your router and as others mentioned - tap it lightly. Try use a bit of WD40 too and dont forget to clean both shafts and collet after releasing it but DO NOT use any oily comic stuff, use alcohol of some sort.
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That just looks to be great fun. :cautious:. If you want to use temperature, an old boy showed me how to do that by heating it up pretty toasty (not so hot you lose temper), then immediately quenching with ice water. That should shake loose any adhesions. If you want to go the chemical route, the BEST I've ever found is called Sili-Kroil, made by the Kano Corporation. Definitely clean all that off before expecting it to hold another bit in there. Once out, I'd be checking for any minute little burrs on either the bit or collet. 1000+ grit wet or dry sandpaper can help with that. And finally, as others have surely pointed out, never put the bit shaft all the way to the bottom of the collet assembly, always leave about 1/8"to prevent this foolishness from recurring. Good success to you!
By the way - just curious - You mentionned the shaft on router bit is 1/2". BUT... how about the collett - Is it 1/2" or did you force it in a 12mm? The difference makes 0,5 mm and thats much in these termes. Because I have never ever experienced a bit to get stuck in a collet. But if you did force it in a 12mm, and thats the reason its so stuck, I'd rather discard that collett and replace it with a new one. You cant afford your health if the collet is damaged oand the bit spins out at high speed.
You live in England, MTMC.co.uk has tons of spare parts for Bosch. Colletts are not expensive. Good luck
Sometimes they are a bit sticky. My habit is to pull it up off of bottoming a little bit before tightening, then a light tap downwards always cracks them loose for me. If it's bottomed when you tighten it you can't tap it down to crack it loose.
@xavceg


In the future try to remember to keep the collet it very clean as so there's no foreign materials that could cause rust or other things that would cause the bit to get stuck to the collet itself. some of the finishes and laminates when things finely cut up get into the collet and then the heat sets It Like Glue.
things I've learned from others misfortunes.

I keep a green o'ring in the bottom they do not last forever about 2 or 3 years due to the heat of the shaft when working and the high RPM they were never designed to be in that environment also note keeping the collett clean are you pulling it out and removing all the dust build-up that gets in there.it is the enemy of collets I tried to remember to pull it back up about 1/8 of an inch before final tightening but the O-ring ensures that can never get to the bottom.
this is what has work for me successfully over the years.
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