I have an old router mounted to my table. I’ve created a jig from a video on youtube to cut box joints but I can’t seem to raise my router bit high enough. The bit has to raise up past 3/4” MDF but it barely clears it. My router has a dial that turns to raise the bit and it’s at its max. Not sure if maybe a longer bit would work. Anyway, any help would be appreciated thanks.
Router bit won’t go high enough
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Hi Red and welcome. Like Stick said, we need more info. By the way, yoou can post pictures if necessary as long as they are stored in your hard drive. Just use the advanced post option and look for the Manage Attachments button below the text box. We can help if you need it.
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508 Posts
You sound like you've got a static top and are using the plunge base to make your height adjustments. If so, life will be tough with that kind of hardware. If so, look at a lift like the Rout-R-Lift from Jessem (https://jessem.com/products/rout-r-lift-ii-model). I went through the Bosch adjustable plunge base trip and suffered majorly. The Jessem's are model specific and take all the work out of adjusting bits on a table. Hope others responses are helpful.
Many would use a spiral up-cut bit. They come in various lengths. Here's an example.
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22,920 Posts
Before you go for a lift, consider getting a Triton TRA001 router. It basically has a built in lift, is very powerful, pretty much exactly what you're looking for. Save the other router for hand held use. The triton goes for about $270, which is not too far from a mid level lift alone. And not all lifts fit all routers, so you will need to check for your router brand. I added this option in case you decide on a lift.
There may be a much simpler way to gain that extra little bit of height, with some more information, we'll probably have more suggestions, and a picture or two would really help. Are you using a plunge base for this, or fixed?
There may be a much simpler way to gain that extra little bit of height, with some more information, we'll probably have more suggestions, and a picture or two would really help. Are you using a plunge base for this, or fixed?
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508 Posts
To use the Triton's plunge base as a lift, you'll need to buy their router table top - about $215-230. Looks like nice gear...
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Personally if that's the case then I'd go with a lift for several reasons. #1 a lift gives you multiple router motors to choose from as it's based primarily on the diameter of the motor. I have 2 Jess Em lifts and one is for the smaller sized motors (Rout-R-Lift II) and has maybe 6-8 motors that can be used with it depending on model. My second lift is adjustable to just about all motors, the Mast-R-Lift II. According to Jess EM this is what they state on their website:
"The Mast-R-Lift II fits every fixed base router that we could find on the market with its unique adjustable clamping block system."
Costs more but has the greatest possibilities and I'm not tied to any one brand router. And let's face realities, with things as they are there's no telling who may still be in business this time next year. So I guess it really depends on your budget and way of thinking. This lift offers the greatest of possibilities. I'm not sure there are other lifts offering this flexibility but I would think so, I just haven't looked.
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3,765 Posts
Welcome to the forum. Sounds like you may need a longer bit to use the set up that you are currently using.
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508 Posts
That is why I recommend the Jessem model II unit - frees up the plunge base and accepts multiple motors. If you can afford a second motor, you'll save time and aggravation positioning under the table, etc. Works great, is rugged - just have to deal with mounting the plate into your table perhaps. It has a phenolic top so you can skinny it down (like i had to) to fit existing table cavities.
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4,625 Posts
Welcome to the Forum...
Couple of ways to help you with this problem...one is the approach some of the responses propose is spending money on new router or lift or both...(we like to help spending money :grin: ). The other is to make some assumptions and try and help without any of the information of which you were asked. So, couple of possibilities...
1. If the router you have installed is a plunge router you might check the depth adjustment to make sure it is not getting into the stops in the turret.
2. Your jig base is 3/4"...can you build it with something less thick...? 1/2" maybe...? (not knowing how much higher your bit needs to go in your current setup)
3. If you have a Triton router, have you checked the interlock to make sure the switch is off...?
4. Have you checked for any sawdust that might be preventing the router from going higher...?
If you can look at Stick's post above he asked some questions...if you respond to that you will get a lot more targeted responses...
Hope to hear from you soon...
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Redsalem; welcome to the Forum!
As others have suggested, please supply more info.
If I understand your original comment, you have your router's original base still on, plus a 3/4" thick 'platform'? That's at least an inch right there, if I'm correct in my assumption(?).
You need to remove the existing phenolic base and install a proper drop in type base which fits into a recess in your top.
Do a search into the archives here; there's volumes of info on this, and there's also YouTube.
As others have suggested, please supply more info.
If I understand your original comment, you have your router's original base still on, plus a 3/4" thick 'platform'? That's at least an inch right there, if I'm correct in my assumption(?).
You need to remove the existing phenolic base and install a proper drop in type base which fits into a recess in your top.
Do a search into the archives here; there's volumes of info on this, and there's also YouTube.
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508 Posts
In many routers, you can access the collet in the plunge base without the collet extending past the base plate.
If the collet won't move past the base plate, the built-in plunge action is simply not long enough for table lift usage.
For many lifts, the motor needs to come off the plunge base and be used with a lift mechanism that allows for positioning and more travel to access the collet topside.
The Triton has an attachment scheme coordinated with their table top model that doesn't require removal of the plunge base - which becomes part of the lift mechanism.
The diameter of the motor is what makes them adaptable to third party lifts - it'll take a looksee to confirm that any will accept the Triton. The typical motor diameter is 3.5" for many lifts - Jessem specs this for theirs but doesn't list Triton as a compatible brand.
If the collet won't move past the base plate, the built-in plunge action is simply not long enough for table lift usage.
For many lifts, the motor needs to come off the plunge base and be used with a lift mechanism that allows for positioning and more travel to access the collet topside.
The Triton has an attachment scheme coordinated with their table top model that doesn't require removal of the plunge base - which becomes part of the lift mechanism.
The diameter of the motor is what makes them adaptable to third party lifts - it'll take a looksee to confirm that any will accept the Triton. The typical motor diameter is 3.5" for many lifts - Jessem specs this for theirs but doesn't list Triton as a compatible brand.
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