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Hello woodworkers!

I have been reading your posts for the last few weeks and decided to finally make my voice heard, and also to use this opportunity to try to get your ideas on my router box / mini table that I want to build. I got this idea from John English's article in the "Jigs and Fixtures for the Table Saw and Router Book" and decided to make my own version. I have attached a picture of what I expect it to be in the end.

The box is for a Bosch 1400 ACE router, it is going to have a polypropylene (PE) top,
and the sides I am thinking of making out of 44x44 mm pine wood, and maybe some clear plastic 5mm foil.

This is where I need some of your ideas, any ideas are welcome, but keep in mind that I am working on a limited budget, and I am new to woodworking.

1 - The top is 15mm and I was thinking of cutting a recces in it to bring the router up about 5-6mm. Can I use the router to cut this, and if so witch bit is good, and what is the best way to do it. I would also gain 6mm by removing the base plate from the router.

2 - The router fence. At this time I am thinking of making it top mounted in 2 holes in the top, with 2 slots for the clamping screws,

3 - Safety switch ... :)shout:hate it!!!) Any of you know how to make it "always on" with out opening the router, and using some improvisation? Now I am thinking of making a switched power box to plug the router in, and tying a zip-tie to the switch

4 - Chip collection ??
5 - Any problems you see in this project


Thank you for making this nice forum so newbies like me can get ideas and help.

Marius M.:thank_you2:
 

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Greetings Marius,

Welcome to The Router Forums!

I would recommend the use of a mounting plate to attach the router to the table top.

Some mounting plates remain entirely below the top surface and are mounted from below. The other basic style of plate sits in a recess routed into the top and is inserted from above.

The only reason I haven't tried the type that goes in from above yet, is I haven't got around to building a table from scratch yet. Used tables are plentiful in my local area.

One of the router tables I have is designed the way you suggested with a recess directly into the bottom side MDF top. While that is certainly functional for the time being, I also know that every time mount or dismount the router the process invites chip out in the mounting holes. Generally speaking the plate is far easier to replace than the entire table top. My crudest plate was simply some 10mm plywood. Plastic would be more resistant to this form of chip out than MDF is, that is certain.

The second big advantage the use of a plate offers is that it makes it easier to use a different router in the table.

Slots to attach the fence are far more versatile for adjustments than a simple hole is.

Good luck on your build out!
 

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Yes you can recess the top a bit to accept the router a straight bit or a spiral bit would work. However I would use a router plate and recess the top instead. This will make it easier to mount the router plus it will give you the ability to use different size bits. If you simply put a say 2" hole in the top then a small bit would have too much room around it and a large panel bit wouldn't fit. For the fence two slots about 5" long will allow the fence to move forward and backwards. Make the front out of two separate pieces of pine or MDF so they can slide closer and farther apart depending on the size of the bit. A dust port can be added to the center of the back of the fence.
 

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Thank you for your input, I see now the benefits of using a router plate.
Do you know what type would accept my router? It is a Bosch POF 1400 ACE, I have attached a picture of the base plate

Thank you again for your ideas
Marius M
 

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Thank you for your input, I see now the benefits of using a router plate.
Do you know what type would accept my router? It is a Bosch POF 1400 ACE, I have attached a picture of the base plate

Thank you again for your ideas
Marius M
It looks identical to the Hitachi MV12 but that doesn't really matter. Each router plate gets drilled for the router that you have. They do not come pre-drilled. You must counter sink the screws that go through the top though so that your work doesn't get hung up on them.
 
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