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I'm building my 1st router table. As I assembled the fence, I noticed that is not quite square top to bottom but it is flat. Is this going to cause problems? How would I correct something like that? As for the split fence face that i'm attaching, what is the best way to cut the 2 channels on each side? I attempted to use my drill press and jig saw but turned out to be a mess.

I can't believe that i'm showing this table after seeing what the members of this forum can make.
 

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are you saying it isn't square to the table??? if so, yes it will matter...
got side and back views of the fence you can post???

could you elaborate more on the 2 channels you want to cut...
are they the T tracks in the table for the fence adjustment???
if they are the slots in the fence's face, see the picture for the simplest way...

will you be covering the fence and table w/ HPL???


and wadda mean ''I can't believe that I'm showing this table''???
your table looks great...

.
 

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The slots are in the fence face. A slot cut all the way through and a wider cut halfway through to allow for the bolt head.

For the out of square issue, I'll have to add pictures tomorrow
what are you using for bolts????
I find toilet flange bolts the cheapest and easiest to use...
you will need to cut a stepped slot...
one for the bolt shank and one on top of that slot to fit the head of the flange bolt...

 
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I like that guide. I'll try to find one for my Bosch.
it's the RA1054...


that Makita is shown using a pair of guides opposing each other...
if you are in a hurry just use a straight edge made from most anything you have laying around...
or a clamp on straight edge...



or...........
make a make a jig...
to use this jig it take a top bearing mortising bit or a straight bit and guide bushing...

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POWERTEC 71068 T-Track Knobs with 1/4-20 by 1-1/2" Hex Bolts and Washers
hex headed bolts will slip/turn free after a time..
use the flanged toilet bolts in ¼/20...
you'll only need to recess for the head about 1/8'' and it will never slip/turn on you...
the slot for the bolt head will look like a T slot when you are done...
 
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The slots are in the fence face. A slot cut all the way through and a wider cut halfway through to allow for the bolt head.

For the out of square issue, i'll have to add pictures tomorrow
For those slots the jig Stick showed is great but remember that you need to make those in 3-4 passes, not in one. You also could have used T-Track dadoed into the mounting plate for the fence but I can't see if that's a flat surface or not, such as a 3/4" board. If so you could use two pieces of T-track cut to the needed size.
 

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It doesn't matter if the fence is square to the table. For that matter, it could be installed diagonally. All that really matters is that the edge of whatever you care routing can slide along the fence without getting stuck on something. Is there a dust collector in the back? If not you need one and can get one at Rockler that will hook up to a shop vac. You can wire it so that the vac turns on when the router turns on. Your table looks great and will do everything that a $400 dollar table will do. I would add a miter slot in the table and tee tracks on the fence to hold feather boards on the table and fence.
 

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It doesn't matter if the fence is square to the table. For that matter, it could be installed diagonally. All that really matters is that the edge of whatever you care routing can slide along the fence without getting stuck on something. Is there a dust collector in the back? If not you need one and can get one at Rockler that will hook up to a shop vac. You can wire it so that the vac turns on when the router turns on. Your table looks great and will do everything that a $400 dollar table will do. I would add a miter slot in the table and tee tracks on the fence to hold feather boards on the table and fence.
I believe the OP meant the fence wasn't vertically square to the table...
 

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I'm building my 1st router table. As I assembled the fence, I noticed that is not quite square top to bottom but it is flat. Is this going to cause problems? How would I correct something like that? As for the split fence face that i'm attaching, what is the best way to cut the 2 channels on each side? I attempted to use my drill press and jig saw but turned out to be a mess.

I can't believe that i'm showing this table after seeing what the members of this forum can make.
It looks like you have some square stock behind the fence holding it vertical...I would suggest making new ones that are perfectly 90deg and replace the ones you have on there now. Make sure whatever you used to make them cuts a perfect 90deg...

The rest looks good...good luck...
 
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It looks like you have some square stock behind the fence holding it vertical...I would suggest making new ones that are perfectly 90deg and replace the ones you have on there now. Make sure whatever you used to make them cuts a perfect 90deg...

The rest looks good...good luck...
Instead of making a new one use this fence as the prototype...
make modifications/improvements to it...
test drive it...
change it some more...
keep the improvements and ditch the dislikes when the OP builds the V.xxx.....
 

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Instead of making a new one use this fence as the prototype...
make modifications/improvements to it...
test drive it...
change it some more...
keep the improvements and ditch the dislikes when the OP builds the V.xxx.....

I meant the blocks behind the fence...not the fence...:grin:
 
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is the square square???

Use the factory edge of a piece of plywood or an edge that you know is perfectly straight to align the short side of your square. Draw a line along the edge of the long side of the square. Then flip the tool over, aligning the base of the mark with the same edge of the square; draw another line.

If the two marks don’t align, your square is not square....
if not, we'll go to plan ''B''...

remember to check both the inside of the square as well as the outside...
 

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I meant the blocks behind the fence...not the fence...:grin:
that plywood's surface may be very irregular and giving up poor reads...
 
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Hey, Norm; thanks for the pictures. They certainly clarify what you were referring to.
You could pull all the screws, and run the base through the tablesaw, separating it from the fence portion, but then you still need to remove the blocking.
If it were me, I'd just remake it and incorporate some of the suggestions that have been made here into the new one.
Perhaps only make the blocking as high as your TS blade will extend upwards (include the base ht in the calculation.)
Install the blocking, then making sure the blade is perfectly perpendicular, run the base and blocking assembly through the saw removing a whisker from the base and blocking edges, leaving you with a perfect 90deg. face. Then install your fence face.
It isn't critical that the blocking reach to the top of the fence face; it's only there to give it structural integrity, and establish that perfect 90 deg. to the table.
 

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Hey, Norm; thanks for the pictures. They certainly clarify what you were referring to.
You could pull all the screws, and run the base through the tablesaw, separating it from the fence portion, but then you still need to remove the blocking.
If it were me, I'd just remake it and incorporate some of the suggestions that have been made here into the new one.
Perhaps only make the blocking as high as your TS blade will extend upwards (include the base ht in the calculation.)
Install the blocking, then making sure the blade is perfectly perpendicular, run the base and blocking assembly through the saw removing a whisker from the base and blocking edges, leaving you with a perfect 90deg. face. Then install your fence face.
It isn't critical that the blocking reach to the top of the fence face; it's only there to give it structural integrity, and establish that perfect 90 deg. to the table.

Good save...! I actually understood it...! :dance3:
 
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