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Discussion Starter #1
i love this learning game that I call a hobby.

After building my table out of white melamine 28mm thick, my first fence was just a piece of wood. OK, but woefully inadequate for dust collection as it just threw everything in my face.

Mark two had a split fence (of which I'm not particularly happy with, wait for news of mark 4), but a collection box behind the bit, with a 2" suction hose off of this around and back to a home made Y joint in the main suction tubing.

Quite fair in operation, although very messy to look at and even with the hose end only a half inch above the table inside the collector box it only picked up fine dust and left the chippings.

So to the mark three. I drilled a 63mm hole in the table top 30mm behind the plate, and rebuilt the fence so there is a channel which covers that hole while the fence is sliding back and fore. I can slide the fence far enough forwards to completely cover the bit, and then 26cm backwards while still covering the hole.

Dust collection is superb! Theres no down side to this as the table top is now clear of hoses, and everything is picked up by it as the chippings now slide along rather than having to be lifted. All thats left is the dust from tail of a rebate if I'm doing a long cut.
 

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Nice, Bob...

What's in store with number four... :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Mark four......
still in development. The split fence isnt working properly, at this stage I dont know why.
I have two pieces of wood finish chipboard cut from the same large piece, bolted to a single mdf backing board. But they dont exactly line up.
Even with them flush to the backing and the sliding screws tight, theres a very small mismatch, and routing a long edge gives me a slip as the wood passes from right board to left board.

I need to make an adjustable fence with repeatable measurements, but dont have any thoughts right now.
Just enjoying the dust free surfaces (lol)
 

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Mark four......
still in development. The split fence isnt working properly, at this stage I dont know why.
I have two pieces of wood finish chipboard cut from the same large piece, bolted to a single mdf backing board. But they dont exactly line up.
Even with them flush to the backing and the sliding screws tight, theres a very small mismatch, and routing a long edge gives me a slip as the wood passes from right board to left board.

I need to make an adjustable fence with repeatable measurements, but dont have any thoughts right now.
Just enjoying the dust free surfaces (lol)
Bob:
Two possibilities:
1. The larger board may not have been a uniform thickness
2. How did you drill the holes for the sliding screws - did the hole leave a slightly raised lip (tearout) around the hole, causing the face board to be not exactly flush?

Vince
 

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I found that when I use MDF with a T slot for a fence, when I tighten the bolts to open or close the bit opening it puts indents in the T slot that interferes with the sliding the fences.
Herb
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Vince, The mdf backing board, and the faced chipboard sliding parts are all clear of dents and chips.
I think that the out slider might have some swelling due to humidity, even though they have all been in exactly the same atmosphere all along.
With them both closed there is a very tiny catch when running a board across. Too small to see it without using a microscope but enough to screw up any routed edges.

Herb, The bolts are fixed into the chipboard fronts and the mdf is slotted, but I am only using wing nuts with large washers underneath, so no deformarion of the mdf.

I'm not too bothered about it, as it is already on the "scrap it" list due to wanting a readable and repeatable measurement system.
 

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No cameras!

My stuff is not only home made, it LOOKS home made. You guys do way too much fancy stuff for me to show and tell.
I use any scrap to hand and dont bother to finish it as its only me who ever looks at it.
But it works. (g)
As long as it works you should be proud of your handiwork, not everyone (me included) are master craftsmen that can produce showroom specimens with our creations.

I built a coffee table for my son over the December holidays which closely resembles a camels back, but guess what, my son loves it and so do his friends. That's all that matters.
 

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...Even with them flush to the backing and the sliding screws tight, theres a very small mismatch, and routing a long edge gives me a slip as the wood passes from right board to left board...
I had a similar problem on my 'mark 1' but I found that it was my plate sagging. Since I got an aluminum plate it works much better. Now I just have to make a more useful fence.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm still struggling to learn so much, that I dont care what the tool looks like. I've used scrap chipboard, plywood, mdf, an awful lot of glue, and a lot of the router table is recycled. I dismantled an old double divan bed base with underneath drawers. The two small drawers make up my mitre saw base, and the two big drawers are built into the router table.
I got stuff a redneck wouldnt give house room to. But it gives me a cheap hobby.

I have a lot of aluminium window shops around here (weather conditions make wood unacceptable as frames), I might see if they have some offcuts I can use as fences.
Oh, and I just fitted Kreg levellers for my router plate. The idea is good, but adjusting them is very awkward, although that may be because my table is pretty big.
 

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I'm still struggling to learn so much, that I dont care what the tool looks like. I've used scrap chipboard, plywood, mdf, an awful lot of glue, and a lot of the router table is recycled. I dismantled an old double divan bed base with underneath drawers. The two small drawers make up my mitre saw base, and the two big drawers are built into the router table.
I got stuff a redneck wouldnt give house room to. But it gives me a cheap hobby.

I have a lot of aluminium window shops around here (weather conditions make wood unacceptable as frames), I might see if they have some offcuts I can use as fences.
Oh, and I just fitted Kreg levellers for my router plate. The idea is good, but adjusting them is very awkward, although that may be because my table is pretty big.
Levelers and leveling are a real challenge for me too. Hard to see well enough to identify small gaps. A straight edge with a light behind it helps, but I can still never seem to get it exact. I've been thinking of how to align my router's split fence and have thought of paper backing behind the fence, built up in layers to shim the fence forward. I'd use a straight edge to slide along the fence, shimming until the straight edge no longer caught. It is the "jump" as the work piece shifts that ruins the cut, getting rid of that jump would make a big difference.

I also don't finish jigs, although I work hard to get them square, plumb, level and or straight. I find it to be a real learning exercise. I have recently started using spherical drawer pulls for shop cabinets and drawers and painting them a deep red. Just for fun.

As to fences, I saw a commercial model that was a square "tube" with a suction hose coming off the end of one side. It looked like you could make something like that with lots of suction to remove the sawdust very efficiently.
 

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As long as it works you should be proud of your handiwork, not everyone (me included) are master craftsmen that can produce showroom specimens with our creations.

I built a coffee table for my son over the December holidays which closely resembles a camels back, but guess what, my son loves it and so do his friends. That's all that matters.
Rudi - do you have the plans?? >:)

As long as you and the recipient are happy with the results, that's all that matters. We can't all be "Norm", nor should we try to be.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Tom, my mark three system of a hole behind the router plate into the lower cavity, which is connected to the extraction system, with a tunnel on the back of the fence,, is extremely efficient. Ans very clutter free. I can recommend this to anyone.

Its always easier to feel a lip than to see it, so I ran a straight edge constantly along the table and onto the plate, and adjusted till there was no catch either way. Its not a 100% though, I suspect the resin plate has a minor bow in it, either that or the 28mm melamine surfaced table has. But I'm not going to get any better than this.

I would love the precision of an incra system (being ex engineer) but its way out of my price range (although by the time I get to the mark seven version it might have been cheaper in the first place).
 

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Pictures would help me to understand what you did. 0:)
 

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Most definitely don't be shy about the photos. I'm intrigue by the dust collection approach but I have trouble visualizing the setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
OK, I'll take a couple carefully posed shots later today (lots of dust sheets casually arranged around it).

I Just realised I might have given the impression I invented this system. Wish I was that smart. I saw it in the background on a youtube video that I can no longer find. The guy was talking about something else entirely, but i thought that looked good, much better than my ungainly hose arrangement.
Its a really elegant and efficient solution.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Right, here goes trtying for pictures.
First one is just the table top with the hole in it which feeds into the router box that has a extraction fitted.




second is the fence all the way back




third is all the way forwards, not that you would ever need this much adjustment, it just illustrates how clear the table top is with no hoses.

 

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nice execution...
 
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