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Discussion Starter #1
Hi there,

I'm soon to be building a new kitchen and doing all the work myself, so found myself in need of replacing my router table top and fence. I built the first one myself using a plan I downloaded from Taunton about 10 years ago. Anyway, my question is, what is the best way to attach the fence, t-tracks or clamps? I'm not so keen about routing tracks in the table for the fence, but I like the jessem system of the tracks at the side of the table, however I haven't been able to find anywhere to buy the side mounted tracks. I wouldn't mind buying the whole Jessem fence, or better yet the woodpeckers one, but Amazon either won't deliver it to New Zealand, or the shipping cost is exorbitant.
 

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I personally like the clamps... a lot simpler/easy to use. My recent RT build is attached to the table saw (Wing) and use the table saw fence in conjunction with the RT fence to move RT fence more accurately.
 

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I have a Jessem system, and an Eagle American system, both are on the outside edges of the table. It requires a fence that is longer than the table so the ends stick out. You can make a setup with 2 short Aluminum angles bolted on to your table leg down, and a short "T" track attached to the top leg. Then get some sticky ruler tape and attach to the table top and read your setting where the front edge of the fence goes across. You might have to add another layer of thickness to the ends of your table to attach the angle. Here are some Commercial ones for ideas. the 2nd Blue one is a Kreig, maybe they even sell that without the fence.
HErb

I see the bottom one is for a Tablesaw, I can't seem to delete it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks heaps for that, loads of good ideas. I definitely like the tracks mounted to the sides with a longer fence.
 

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My last table had tracks and a couple of times the T nuts loosened on me but I just tried to be more careful with them. This last table I went back to clamps. I haven't had a clamp loosen yet but it's always a possibility. I got some C clamps and turned some handles and slotted the open ends to fit over the bars on the clamps so they were easier to operate. Honestly I don't find a preference either way. If you don't like the idea of slotting the table then don't. If you want pictures of the C clamp handles let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That's a good point, I hadn't considered the t nuts loosening with the vibrations. Are you able to show me pictures of the c clamps?
Thanks.
 

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I turned these but you could just buy some wooden closet rod at a building supply instead or trim a square block to roughly round by hand and eye. I find these handles make tightening easier and quicker and the clamps are easier to handle with the additions on them too. I know I copied this idea from somewhere else but I don't remember who to give the credit to.
 

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If you're looking for a DIY solution, I'm very happy with my fence locks on my table. Scroll through the post to the "Fence:" section.

I still haven't got around to making a new fence but will use the same type of locks. I was using C-clamps and these work just as well but much more convenient.
 

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welder's clamps...
use non skid tape or non skid furniture tape between the mating surfaces....
non skid can be added to the bottom of the fence...
and your miter gauge face...
 

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Tracks system seems handled. But if you're going to build kitchen cabinets, I strongly suggest you arrange to clamp on a tall vertical fence. This will make it far easier to cut the ends of vertical pieces for you panel doors. I also suggest you take a few hours and watch some videos of Marc Sommerfeld building cabinets. He sells stuff, but he was a cabinet maker before that and his technique is simple as heck and very effective. I actually purchased his full set of DVDs and watch the ones that apply to the project I'm working on. He uses such simple and direct methods that produce very accurate results. It could save you some frustration by watching him work. Someone mentioned that he has a serious cancer, so thankfully the videos are all on YouTube.

Here's part one to get you started and on the right page.
 

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This video has malware on it trying to install fake antivirus. I killed the window and restarted it and the video started where it left off without trying to install fake antivirus.
 

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This video has malware on it trying to install fake antivirus. I killed the window and restarted it and the video started where it left off without trying to install fake antivirus.

"Rut, Roh" !
 

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this video has malware on it trying to install fake antivirus. I killed the window and restarted it and the video started where it left off without trying to install fake antivirus.
thanks for the heads up..
 

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^ +1
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Awesome, thanks for that. I'm making a tall auxiliary fence to clamp on for doing the raised panels. I've slowly been getting the things I need together, and the jobs almost finished. I'm actually just waiting on a set of brushes to arrive from Amazon for my router before I start installing it all.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I have finally finished my router table top and fence rebuild. My brushes still haven't arrived from Amazon, but I had another set that were chipped, so I've filed them level and hopefully that will see me through till my brushes arrive.
 

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That came out great Raewyn. T-Track and Miter Slot in front of the Router Plate? Kreg Router Plate? On a former Router Table of mine I spent a lot of time measuring from the front of the table to the fence until I got both sides the same distance from the front to make a straight cut on the work piece. You may want to add a tape measure on both sides of the table so you can set your fence evenly in a short period of time.. just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I needed a miter slot for my coping sled. My previous table I made was too thin to route one into. All of my featherboards use the t-track, so I needed both tracks. It's a Jessem MastRLift that I've got. I thought about the tape measure, so it may be a not to distant future addition.
 

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I needed a miter slot for my coping sled. My previous table I made was too thin to route one into. All of my featherboards use the t-track, so I needed both tracks. It's a Jessem MastRLift that I've got. I thought about the tape measure, so it may be a not to distant future addition.
Jessem MastRLift..... sweet! I've been contemplating adding a t-track and or miter slot to my RT. Lately I've been rabbeting a lot of linear feet of picture frames and the finger tips get a little raw on the 2nd and 3rd pass.
 
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