Router Forums banner
1 - 20 of 134 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
882 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've had my new saw a week now and I've decided to use the space that opens up when the table is extended for a router table insert. I've checked clearances and I think some 3/4" aluminium angle, carefully cut to fit the inner groove of the rails should support the insert and leave enough room for a standard router plate from Grizzly. (Thanks Jigs). Only problem is the plates are on back-order and won't come in till June 1.

In the mean time I'll work on getting the fence mod going. I have a preliminary design I've thrown together on Google Sketchup. The large silver extrusion is the table saw fence. The white one is Incra's T-track Plus (probably will use two to get measurement on both ends). The brown is 1/2" and 3/4" MDF. If any one sees any glaring mistakes please let me know.

GCG
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
882 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I thought a couple of exploded views might be useful.

Oh, and I closed up the ends and added center support in the spacer boxes.

GCG
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
882 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
One more of the whole concept.

GCG
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Some thoughts for you to consider

One question I have is how will you get bolts/nuts into and out of the slots for auxiliary fences? It appears you have a hole for a chip/dust collector which is excellent. I would also have some auxiliary jig slots along the top for flexibility of adding jig parts that may require different positioning to augment and assist the t-slots. I would also consider a t-slot at the very top facing up to gain more jig and stops design flexibility. On ting you appear to be doing wisely is making the fence taller. I have had to add a tall fence auxiliary jig to my commercial fence that permits me to do spline and mortising on things like picture frames and legs which are tall, sometimes held at an angle, and need vertical support.
I hope these comments help.

I've had my new saw a week now and I've decided to use the space that opens up when the table is extended for a router table insert. I've checked clearances and I think some 3/4" aluminium angle, carefully cut to fit the inner groove of the rails should support the insert and leave enough room for a standard router plate from Grizzly. (Thanks Jigs). Only problem is the plates are on back-order and won't come in till June 1.

In the mean time I'll work on getting the fence mod going. I have a preliminary design I've thrown together on Google Sketchup. The large silver extrusion is the table saw fence. The white one is Incra's T-track Plus (probably will use two to get measurement on both ends). The brown is 1/2" and 3/4" MDF. If any one sees any glaring mistakes please let me know.

GCG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
882 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
One question I have is how will you get bolts/nuts into and out of the slots for auxiliary fences?
If you're asking how the aux is held to the primary I'll have three flat head screws accessible from the center in the back of the center chamber and strategically placed behind the outer slot on either end of the face. I'll have to slide the aux onto the primary from the end. I hope that's what you were asking.

It appears you have a hole for a chip/dust collector which is excellent. I would also have some auxiliary jig slots along the top for flexibility of adding jig parts that may require different positioning to augment and assist the t-slots. I would also consider a t-slot at the very top facing up to gain more jig and stops design flexibility.
Funds. It's all about the money. Mine is limited. I do what I can with what I've got. I'd love to do more but then there'd be the med bills when my wife beans me with that cast iron frying pan.

On ting you appear to be doing wisely is making the fence taller. I have had to add a tall fence auxiliary jig to my commercial fence that permits me to do spline and mortising on things like picture frames and legs which are tall, sometimes held at an angle, and need vertical support.
I like the height, too. That was intentional.

I hope these comments help.
All comment are very welcome.
I noticed in this drawing the double t-slot has one slot buried and not useable. Is this because of the pieces you have or am I missing something about how you might use the inward turned lower t-slot?
Its how the Incra TTrackPlus is made. There's a scale on the front of the back facing slot that I don't show in the sketch.

Thanks for the response.

GCG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
882 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Clyde,

I took one of your suggestions and put the TTrack Plus on the top and replaced it with a standard track. I made the support boxes shallower and added support on the top across the top of the saw fence. Then I dropped in some fasteners for clarity. I've shifted the positions of the slide-able sections to show the fasteners that would otherwise be hidden.

GCG

Addendum: The 1/4-20 screws that the aux fence sections ride on will be in threaded inserts (I have some from a previous project). That's why I'm not going to use track there. Should have been clearer on that.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
882 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Added the Saw table for some context.

First pic: full layout with the fence at the right most position allowable.
Second pic: Fence, TTrack, and Plate removed to show the cutouts in the top (3/4 Melamine).
Third pic: Top removed to show the 1/2 MDF base inside the frame sections.

GCG
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
882 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Over 160 views and no one is warning me off so I guess I can move forward.

Two dimension drawings
1. Aluminum angle detail
2. Top and base detail

GCG
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,046 Posts
Added the Saw table for some context.

First pic: full layout with the fence at the right most position allowable.
Second pic: Fence, TTrack, and Plate removed to show the cutouts in the top (3/4 Melamine).
Third pic: Top removed to show the 1/2 MDF base inside the frame sections.

GCG
:stop:It looked good to me until I got to this the first pic. The way you have it set up you will have to work over the long (left) end of the saw. You need to set it up so the fence is between the router position and the saw blade position so your routing work area is off the right end of the saw. Actually the fence itself is fine I just am hoping you are planning on mounting it on the other side of the saw fence than what you are showing
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
882 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Had my head locked into the saw operating position. Need to open up with my thinking.

Lucky for me they're both reversible. The saw fence has a symmetrical t-slot layout so the the router fence addition (also symmetrical) can go on either side. The insert is basically a 10.25x21 inch rectangular table leaf that rides on the table rail grooves so it can go either way too.

New pic. ... Better?

The only inconvenience will be that the lock for the fence is on the near side and if I'm feeding safely from the far side, I'll have to walk around to make adjustments. No biggie, just an observation.

GCG
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,046 Posts
Had my head locked into the saw operating position. Need to open up with my thinking.

Lucky for me they're both reversible. The saw fence has a symmetrical t-slot layout so the the router fence addition (also symmetrical) can go on either side. The insert is basically a 10.25x21 inch rectangular table leaf that rides on the table rail grooves so it can go either way too.

New pic. ... Better?

The only inconvenience will be that the lock for the fence is on the near side and if I'm feeding safely from the far side, I'll have to walk around to make adjustments. No biggie, just an observation.

GCG
Yep, much better. I've got a 4510 also so I've been lurking here but didn't have any criticisms earlier... doin a good job, well thought out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
882 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Comments can only help. Glad to hear any you may have.

I've been knockin' around the idea of attaching some self adhesive felt to the underside of the angle sections that will ride on the table rails. I don't want to mar them and take the chance of compromising what is now a smooth operating slide.

I've also got the safety power switch duplex outlet that is currently on the Wolfcraft table I'm using till I complete this. I should be able to retrofit it to the insert.

GCG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
That's the ticket!

Great! the added functionality will be well worth it. The accessories and jigs I have made with the added top track feature have been useful in so many ways.

Clyde,

I took one of your suggestions and put the TTrack Plus on the top and replaced it with a standard track. I made the support boxes shallower and added support on the top across the top of the saw fence. Then I dropped in some fasteners for clarity. I've shifted the positions of the slide-able sections to show the fasteners that would otherwise be hidden.

GCG

Addendum: The 1/4-20 screws that the aux fence sections ride on will be in threaded inserts (I have some from a previous project). That's why I'm not going to use track there. Should have been clearer on that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
I have the ridgid ts3650 with the same fence and this is what I did for a fence for my router insert in my table saw.
7-4-11 004.JPG 7-4-11 007.JPG 7-4-11 001.JPG
7-4-11 005.JPG 7-4-11 006.JPG

I made mine taller due to the fact I was doing alot of taller pieces and also for the ability to put a feather board from the top.

I had been using this fence for about 3 years but it had alot of short comings that I think I took care of in the above design.
4-2-2011 004.JPG 4-2-2011 005.JPG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
882 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Great! the added functionality will be well worth it. The accessories and jigs I have made with the added top track feature have been useful in so many ways.
Care to share one or two. Inquiring minds and all...


I have the ridgid ts3650 with the same fence and this is what I did for a fence for my router insert in my table saw.

I made mine taller due to the fact I was doing alot of taller pieces and also for the ability to put a feather board from the top.

I had been using this fence for about 3 years but it had alot of short comings that I think I took care of in the above design.
Nice work. Wish I had the space for the cabinet and an outfeed table but all this HAS to be stored in a very small space to allow my wife to use the garage. How did you get two Ridgid fences and what's the skinny on the digital readout I see there?

GCG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
The second fence came about cause my wife heard me complaining about having to reset the fence between the router and the saw for this one job I needed to do so she surprised me with another fence she ordered from Ridgid.

The digital fence was also on my wish list that my wife got me for my birthday. It's a wixey and it's been wonderful!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
882 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Your wife is a definite keeper.

GCG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
882 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Little by Little ...

Got the angle cut and fit. The long 3/4 x 3/4 run lengthwise along the sides of the table sections and act as ledgers and the shorter 3/4 x 1/2 pieces are cross members to support the insert. The cross members will be attache to the insert and I'll drill and tap the ledgers at the cross points to use jacking screws to level the insert to the table. The two middle cross members will be cut to fit the plate opening once I've got the plate in.


GCG
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
882 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Gettin' there

After some distractions I finally got back to the insert project. I've finished the insert and as far as the final product is concerned I'm very happy. Here's a shot from my phone.

[/url] Saw table Router insert complete by pat w1, on Flickr[/IMG]

and underneath with the Bosch 1617,

[/url] Saw table Router insert complete below2 by pat w1, on Flickr[/IMG]

You can see the four leveling screws at the corners. I need to cut them down if for nothing else aesthetics. I may or may not try to retrofit the safety switch from the original table. I could just set it up as a utility table to the side and plug the router and shop-vac to it as is. It'll still be handy enough for a safety.

I had some play in the guides I used to route the recess for the router plate which resulted in a plate that shifted between 1/16 and 1/32 in both axes. To correct this I made a paste with sander dust and glue with a consistency about like thick peanut butter. I laid in some along the back (away from the t-track) and left side. I laid down some wax paper and then set the plate in. After it set up overnight I cleared away the excess with a chisel. Now there is no noticeable play at all.

I've delayed the fence. I've been working on getting some reclaimed red oak and I delivered a load to a local mill yesterday. It was 11 distressed 6x8 10' ties. The guy at the mill will cut it down for me for half the lumber, fair enough. As soon as I get it back (he said probably Tuesday) I'll start work on the fence.

GCG
 
1 - 20 of 134 Posts
Top