So put new bearings in it and carry on

 

This is after the bearings, switch, plate,everything that can be busted has been replaced, repaired and rigged. Just before of the company bugler jumps out, plays taps and slams it in the dumpster,

 

I would have a couple of back-up routers available,just in case. That OSB is loaded with glue and hard on bits. Not sure about routers tho. When I edge trimmed OSB it was really rough. Quite unacceptable for my taste. How thick of panels?

Herb

 

Herb the panels are 19/32 thick with the overhang to be cut off ranging from 3 to 16 inches and the length of one cut/job ranging from 52 to 92 feet. It beats the wires out of a router. We are currently using Porter Cables 3.25hp router.

 

Is there a reason you don't use a skilsaw? They cut OSB very well.

Herb

 

Jim, are you using dust collection with the router? This would make a huge difference since you are keeping the bulk of the dust out of the motor. That will greatly extend the components life. Is this a 7518 or the older series?

I think a Stacc-Vac would be a great value for your needs. You can see the plastic shield on my 7518; this photo was taken at the International Sawdust Saturday event when we were comparison testing different brands of bits. The combination of the larger base with the extra handle provides better control and the vacuum port captures most of the dust; the plastic shield helps contain the dust so your motor is sucking clean air. The bit guard/brushes do a good job of capturing dust that would normally hit the floor. You can learn more about the Stacc-Vac here: Betterley Industries

 

from experience...
Bosch out lasts PC by a wide margin but the half sharp/caring factor has been removed...
all of my PC's got bugled...
Bosch is still at it...
and MDF not spoken here...

 

I was kind of wondering about the router vs circ. saw thing myself(?).
Cutting 1/3 of a mile of 1/2" OSB per week is asking a lot of a builders saw, never mind a router.
To clarify, the sawblade is removing maybe 1/8" of material or less if it's just facing up an edge.
Probably not a huge amount of heat buildup if the the blade's kept really clean and sharp.

 

In a production environment flush trimming 2000 feet of 19/32 osb per week,

I was kind of wondering about the router vs circ. saw thing myself(?).
.

how do we flush trim w/ a CS???

 

"how do we flush trim w/ a CS???"
Very carefully!
i think I missed what exactly is being flush trimmed. I it just the OSB to a final finished size?

 

I'm with you Dan, If it is straight line cutting then a Circular saw would be better. If it is small curves then a router is in order, even trimming oversize by 1/8" then routering is better than hogging OSB with a router.
The question is ,What are we cutting out? If it is OSB it isn't fine furniture.

Herb

 

I realized later, Herb, that I'd made a huge assumption that they were all straight long cuts. As you point out, if they're curves, or 'portholes', then I'm way off base...and it's 5/8" not 1/2'' OSB. When I'm out to lunch it's a full 3 course meal. *embarrassment*

 

If it is cuves or port holes ,then a jig saw is the tool of choice then a router to flush up, but I still contend that "panel" cutting 5/8" OSB does not seem like a router operation especially for production.

One way to test out router motors tho. LOL

Herb

 

Stop using half sharp cutters as it is dangerous, Stop being a half caring woodworker too as that is dangerous, Only buy quality cutters and keep them sharp, keep your floor area clean and clear, use hearing protection and eye protection, never take your eyes off any fast moving cutters, or sharp slow ones for that matter and never keep blunt tool blunt as they are dangerous when you have to push harder than you should be pushing, I still have all my fingers and if you want to keep yours then do not be a half caring woodworker using half sharp cutters. N

 

I'm with Herb on this. If it is a straight line trim or even a long curve (it was 50 to 90' wasn't it?) then a CS could be following a straight edge. The CS would be waaay cheaper to operate and be a lot faster than a router. If you are cutting holes then an expansion bit or jigsaw would be faster and cheaper.

 

flush trimming was the give away...
kinda self explanatory...

 

Jim, getting back to your question this is out of a Bosch manual and your PC should most likely be done at shorter intervals.

 

Thanks, Mike! Good wake up call.
Not sure that I ever actually read that info in my manual... *more embarrassment*

 

Don't be embarassed, Dan, I don't either. Tear open the box put a bit in and plug er in and start cutting.HAHAHAHAHA

Herb

 

I do appreciate all of the responses but no one attempted to answer the question of how long the router would last before it was left smoldering in the dumpster (a week-month-year). Obviously hogging through sheets of OSB is not the job intended for a router but in a production environment where time matters sacrificing a router saves time and money.

Looking at going back to pre-cutting most of the OSB close to size and cleaning up with the router. On the short runs of 15 feet or less continue to hog it and bog it out.

I did find out through this that Bosch makes a 3.25 router and assume its better built that a PC

 

What exactly are you cutting ,Marco? Could you use another tool, like a skilsaw?
Herb

 

I went through 5 of the PC's in less than a year...
bearings went causing field/armature damage and PC was no help on the warranty because I'm a commercial shop...

Bosch has been very good to me...
but I believe you already know how long your PC lasted...

 

Jim, in post 19 I uploaded a section from the Bosch manual stating the bearings should be replaced every 300 - 400 hours and that your PC would most likely require a shorter time span. If the router is running a true 30 hours a week then every 10 weeks you should at least be inspecting it for wear if not replacing the bearings.

Keeping the dust out helps a great deal since dust build up retains heat and shortens the motors life span.

 

Pat Warner said something once to the effect "a router is a poor choice of tool for hogging out waste". Trimming close would definitely help. Also you still haven't really said what it is you are doing. That piece of info might make a difference.

 

We are building floors for manufactured homes using 19/32 Tounge and Groove OSB glued then nailed to floor joists. The floors are rectangular ranging from 12 to 16 feet wide and 40 to 76 feet long. It takes 4 rows of OSB to cover the width of the floor. The first row is flushed and squared to the perimeter rail and the fourth row is in need of being flush to its perimeter rail. The widths of the fourth row sheets vary from roughly 16"-20"- 38" and 46". The specific width needed say 16" can vary down the length of the floor mostly due to the tounge and Groove joint. So flushing up the 4th row even if the sheets are cut on a table saw is not possible without a router.

Today I flipped over a circular saw to see if there is a way to make a circular saw cut flush. I believe a smart feller could do it. Attacched to the base plate, a thin metal guide in front of the blade and one in back of the blade offset to the thickness of the front guide?

 

I think you just invented a new circ. saw accessory, Jim!

Sounds exactly like the device on a laminate trimmer.
To be honest, I'd just free hand the end cut, barely kissing the joist beneath. If there's barely teeth marks in the face of the joist, does it matter?
Let the blade hang down maybe a 1/4" below the OSB.
Another tool you might try would be a portable hand planer although I think the OSB would be really hard on the cutters.
By the way, one of the small (4 1/2"?) circ saws used by the flooring guys might be perfect for that job.

Doesn't that doo-hicky on the trimmer below sound like what you're proposing, in function at least?

 

circular saw guides like you mentioned already exist..

 

If you mean the stock edge guide, Stick, it doesn't hang down far enough to clear the OSB, and certainly with mine it doesn't retract far enough in to pass the blade on the inside face. But other than those minor quibbles...
Welcome home by the way, Stick; you'll find your 'In' box a bit full.

 

Kreg makes one... so doesn't t

trolley and rip guide...
there's quite a few makes and models our there...

home....
here till Sunday...

 

Jim if you made something like a blade splitter on a table saw it could attach to the shoe and run from behind the blade, under the blade, and forward in front of the blade a bit to act as a guide. It would have to be at least something like T1 steel to work.

Even if that doesn't turn out as a practical solution I think it would be faster (and a bunch cheaper) to tack down straight edges to a chalk line and use that to guide a skill saw. The OSB doesn't have to be flush to the rim joist and it doesn't have to be neat. It just can't stick out past the rim joist.

 

We used to cut miles of decking,1 1/2 "and 1 ' thick plywood sheet with a chalk line and free hand with the blade on a wormdrive 1/8" below th sub floor. If I had to use a router I would cut it first with a saw then route off the 1/8"-3/16" with a flush cut bit and a 3hp router.
Herb