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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello fellow woodworkers,

This is my first post and I am looking for suggestions on a router lift for a PC 7518 which is a heavy beast. I am currently considering both the Kreg and Jessem lifts as they adjust to accommodate many different size routers which might be helpful down the road. The thickness (rather thinness) of the top plates concerns me. Has anyone had an experience where the weight of the 7518 (or similar router) caused the plate to sag. I ask this because I did have such an experience with the original Jessem Master Lift. Long story.....The router an lift was mounted in a Bench Dog table and the support for the plate was only touching the router plate at the corners and the table had been in storage for several years with the router just hanging on the plate. The sag was sufficiently bad that it was almost impossible to remove an insert ring. Someone had tried to remove a ring and applied so much force that they cracked the insert tool. I contacted Jessem customer support and was told that the plates were not supposed to be able to support something like a 7518 and that the router/plate should be supported in some way or removed from the table and and stored such that the plate was not supporting the router when not in use. Also, I was not the original owner so they offered no assistance. I was able to build a stout frame and with the help of several heavy duty clamps was able to fix the sag.

Given that experience and the response from Jessem I would like to hear from experienced users to help me figure out my next lift. BTW, the original Jessem Master Lift had a thicker plate than the current II model so the thinness of the current plates concerns me. Perhaps the aluminum in the II model is stiffer than that in the original Master Lift. Any input or experiences are appreciated.
 

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Welcome. This is not what you asked, but I suggest you consider getting a Triton TRA001 router, which has a built in lift. It sells for about the price of a good lift, and less than some. I know you already have a heavy duty router, but check out the Triton rather than getting a lift for your machine, which may or may not fit your next router. I've had one for years and it's great. You simply open a cap, remove the spring, replace the cap and you're done. You can find a number of plates that will work fine on any table.

Sell your old one and get a trim router. You'll love the versatility.

Here is a picture of the Triton with a plate with the crank through it.
Gas Electronic device Font Machine Auto part
 

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I've had the 7518 in a Woodpeckers table with their lift for over 10 years with no problems. The router plate is aluminum and the table is solid phenolic.

However I recently removed the Woodpeckers lift and installed the MLCS motorized lift. Haven't used it much yet but I think the motorized lift is going to open up some possibilities for me.

So now my Woodpeckers lift is sitting idle, and the 7518 may be sidelined soon too. I have the 3-1/4 HP SpinRite router from Woodpeckers on order if it ever gets here. The SpinRite has an ER20 collet and some other features that I like over the 7518.

So long story short I may be selling the 7518 and the WP lift soon but not because I did not like either. I think they performed great and the 7518 has more than enough power to do whatever I want to do.

Tom's suggestion of selling your router and getting the Triton plus a compact router is not a bad idea, especially if you go with a cordless compact router. They are so nice to use over a corded model I find myself using the DeWalt DCW600b whenever I can.
 

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For the reason you mentioned, Joel, I have a Triton TRA001 in an Oak Park 11x11 plate, and always take it out of the table when not being used.

I store it in the upright position resting on the base plate.

It is very easy to lift in and out when used.
 

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PS, the PC 7518 and the Triton have the same hole spacing
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hello fellow woodworkers,

This is my first post and I am looking for suggestions on a router lift for a PC 7518 which is a heavy beast. I am currently considering both the Kreg and Jessem lifts as they adjust to accommodate many different size routers which might be helpful down the road. The thickness (rather thinness) of the top plates concerns me. Has anyone had an experience where the weight of the 7518 (or similar router) caused the plate to sag. I ask this because I did have such an experience with the original Jessem Master Lift. Long story.....The router an lift was mounted in a Bench Dog table and the support for the plate was only touching the router plate at the corners and the table had been in storage for several years with the router just hanging on the plate. The sag was sufficiently bad that it was almost impossible to remove an insert ring. Someone had tried to remove a ring and applied so much force that they cracked the insert tool. I contacted Jessem customer support and was told that the plates were not supposed to be able to support something like a 7518 and that the router/plate should be supported in some way or removed from the table and and stored such that the plate was not supporting the router when not in use. Also, I was not the original owner so they offered no assistance. I was able to build a stout frame and with the help of several heavy duty clamps was able to fix the sag.

Given that experience and the response from Jessem I would like to hear from experienced users to help me figure out my next lift. BTW, the original Jessem Master Lift had a thicker plate than the current II model so the thinness of the current plates concerns me. Perhaps the aluminum in the II model is stiffer than that in the original Master Lift. Any input or experiences are appreciated.
I'm intrigued by your suggestion. I like the Jessem lift for its accuracy and ease of bit changes as it gets the collet above the table.
Welcome. This is not what you asked, but I suggest you consider getting a Triton TRA001 router, which has a built in lift. It sells for about the price of a good lift, and less than some. I know you already have a heavy duty router, but check out the Triton rather than getting a lift for your machine, which may or may not fit your next router. I've had one for years and it's great. You simply open a cap, remove the spring, replace the cap and you're done. You can find a number of plates that will work fine on any table.

Sell your old one and get a trim router. You'll love the versatility.

Here is a picture of the Triton with a plate with the crank through it.
View attachment 401863
Thanks Tom. I like the Jessem for the accurate height adjustment and ability to get the collet above the table for bit changes. How does the height adjustment compare to the Jessem lift if I mount the router in a spare phenolic plate such as a Kreg. Would I be well advised to get the Infinity plate lift which I believe is metal (or perhaps another metal plate) ? Next, can the bits be changed from above the table on the Triton? My hesitation is that I do not want to make a change substituting something that "works" for one that works extremely well. I would love to hear from Triton owners about ease of bit changes and height adjustment as compared to the Jessem. Yes I could save a few $$$ with the Triton, but since I already own a PC 7518 the net $$$ is not that large.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Bump.....I was looking for some feedback comparing using the Triton in a table vs. a PC 7518/Jessem lift in a table mounted scenario. Does the Triton mounted to a plate work as smoothly or accurately as a Jessem lift? Is there any backlash? I don't want something that just works.....I want one that works superbly and accurately. In my experience, the 7518/Jessem lift was a superb combination. It was accurate and a small turn of the height adjustment worked flawlessly without backlash. So is there anyone on the forum who has used both and can provide a comparison? I am in the process of upgrading my router capabilities. My current Jessem lift is of the narrower version (8.25" and belt drive) and I would like to go to the wider lift and standardize the table opening among other router setups in my shop (horizontal router table, table saw wing mount, portable jobsite router table). The upgrade presents the option of of purchasing a new Jessem lift to fit the 9.25 opening or purchasing a Triton and new plate which ends up being about the same outlay less the sale of the PC7518.
 

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The Triton works well enough for me. Being in Australia, I have not used the PC7518, and the other lifts are way too expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for your reply. I already own the PC7518 which I acquired quite cheaply some years ago. If I was starting from scratch I would likely go with the TRA001. Unfortunately there are no deals on the lifts.
 

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Hi. I have a 75372, single speed(external speed adjuster) in a Jessem Master R lift and love it. If you already have a good router, I would get the lift. Just easier...plus, I don't see much $ saving if you have to buy another router with adjustment. You'll be happier with a better system.
 

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Question for you Triton users: other times I’ve tried using fixed based routers in a router table the fine sawdust would get caught between the motor and housing making it necessary to take the motor out on a regular basis to remove the sawdust because the adjustment wouldn’t work smoothly. Is that ever an issue with the Triton routers?
 

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Hi Terry, I have not had that issue with over 10yrs of casual use.

The Triton also has dust collection shrouds.
 

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Bump.....I was looking for some feedback comparing using the Triton in a table vs. a PC 7518/Jessem lift in a table mounted scenario. Does the Triton mounted to a plate work as smoothly or accurately as a Jessem lift? Is there any backlash? I don't want something that just works.....I want one that works superbly and accurately. In my experience, the 7518/Jessem lift was a superb combination. It was accurate and a small turn of the height adjustment worked flawlessly without backlash. So is there anyone on the forum who has used both and can provide a comparison? I am in the process of upgrading my router capabilities. My current Jessem lift is of the narrower version (8.25" and belt drive) and I would like to go to the wider lift and standardize the table opening among other router setups in my shop (horizontal router table, table saw wing mount, portable jobsite router table). The upgrade presents the option of of purchasing a new Jessem lift to fit the 9.25 opening or purchasing a Triton and new plate which ends up being about the same outlay less the sale of the PC7518.
Hi, just found this request. The Triton lifts the collet above the table. It doesn't have backlash because you have a lever lock. I suggest a metal plate because the Triton is fairly heavy. It uses a crank handle that goes down through the plate to the router height adjustment. Wnen you crank it to full height, it locks the spindle and flips the power switch to off. You don't have to unplug it. I no longer buy PC products, so I can't compare them directly. More below, but the Triton is very precise and I've never noticed any backlash.

I used to have a Rockler lift, which did not have a lock but depended on pressure on a "mushy" grommet. Mine slipped, I would tighten it and it still slipped. I couldn't get it to hold, and it was too late to send it back. So on the recommendation of several guys on the Forum, I popped for the Triton.

I have a Rockler table with their blue aluminum plate. The holes were also right for the Triton. All I had to do was lay the Triton on the plate and used a punch to mark where the crank goes through. Drilled a half inch hole and used a rat tail file to smooth the edge of the hole and it worked just fine. I later replaced the plate with a Woodpecker that had a twist lock insert because I hated having to remove three tiny screws that held the insert in place on the Rockler plate. It was a simple thing to rout out the table to the correct size opening. Woodpecker was about an inch larger in each dimension.

These days, most plates have the twist lock inserts, so you don't have to pay a premium for the feature. It also has a push button spindle lock, which is useful if you're using a matched bit set for making doors. These are set up so you set the height for the first bit in the set, then simply switch out the other bits in the set without changing the height. To make that work you drop a half inch grommet into the collet and let the bits bottom on that. You use their offset wrench when doing that. This trick works with any half inch collet.

The power of the Triton is nice, and it has some dust collection accessories that are very good.

Some people get annoyed that you have to switch the power back on when you lift the collet to change the bit, but it's a safety feature, and I like safety. You quickly learn where the switch is and just reach in, flip it and you're up an running. With older routers, for safest bit changes, you unplug the router. Well, lots of people will skip that step when changing bits, and I'm a fanatic about safe procedures.

If you want to learn how to get the most from the Triton, check out the videos by Marc Sommerfeld. He was a cabinet maker before starting his company and he shows lots of methods of using his Triton that are simple and ingenious.

I bought my Triton through Home Depot online and had it delivered to my local store. They matched the price, which was then about $250. It has gone up a bit since, but what hasn't.

I kept both of my Bosch 1617 for hand held use. I bought a second motor just for the lift, so now both fixed and plunge bases have their own motor. Money wasn't really an issue for me since I was in my peak earning years by that time. I like the power and precision of the Triton a lot. I am very fussy about my projects and precision counts.
 
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