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Hello everyone new here. I was given a Milwaukee 5625-29 router. My cousin said he thought the switch was bad because you turn it on it comes on this immediately goes off. I put a different switch on it same thing. The brushes are arching on the armature. Is there anything I can do before taking it to a repair shop?
 

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David - Machinist in wood
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Welcome to the forum, Lewis! When you get a minute go ahead and complete your profile with first name and location.

I'm not familiar with that router; does it have a speed control? If so I wonder if the circuitry has gone bad. How badly are the brushes arcing?

David
 

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Welcome Lewis..
that router has speed control but isn't know for having issues.... try dialing in different speeds...
the brushes just may be the issue..
w/ a 5 year warranty you my be able to have it taken care of w/o charge...

.
 

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I'm guessing that if you decide to take it to a repair shop it will cost you more than a good used one or maybe even a good new one. If as Stick suggested it is under warranty you may get lucky otherwise check out Craigslist or Ebay.
 

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This was a used machine when Lewis got it, and likely has quite a few hours of usage on it. It's likely no longer be under warrantee. If it's brushes, that's not such a big deal and you can look up parts for the make and model. Milwaukee is a good brand so parts and repairs should be available either from the maker or parts suppliers or even local tool repair people. Be sure to read Stick's pdfs!
 

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Try cleaning the Armature First

Hello everyone new here. I was given a Milwaukee 5625-29 router. My cousin said he thought the switch was bad because you turn it on it comes on this immediately goes off. I put a different switch on it same thing. The brushes are arching on the armature. Is there anything I can do before taking it to a repair shop?
I suspect it is the armature shorted in the gaps by Carbon dusts.
1. Clean with Armature with compressed air then fiber glass pen or fine GLASS paper or strong bamboo toothpicks and air blow again.
2. Replace the Carbon Brushes anyway since they are very Cheap.

I have resurrected my Kress power drill and my powerful small sized Hoover vacuum cleaner (I use for servicing computers onsite) by following those procedures.

Tool I use is ALWAYS - Fiber Glass Pen shown.
 

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Welcome to the forum. The fact that it comes on makes me think it’s not brushes. Not coming on or running at a reduced speed is more indicative of brush problems. It sounds more like it comes on just long enough for something like a capacitor in a circuit board to heat up. If you are knowledgeable in that area you could try bypassing the soft start and speed control and see if that solves the problem.
 

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Welcome to the forum. The fact that it comes on makes me think it’s not brushes. Not coming on or running at a reduced speed is more indicative of brush problems. It sounds more like it comes on just long enough for something like a capacitor in a circuit board to heat up. If you are knowledgeable in that area you could try bypassing the soft start and speed control and see if that solves the problem.

You may be right that it is the speed controller.
This model is known from customer complaints to have

1. Non-dust proof switch that many have reported have reported malfunctioned when dust got in

2. Weak electronics - speed controller failure

But what I proposed in my previous post is UNKNOWN to most people.
It is the shorting of the armature when the gaps are filled with carbon dust.
Unless the armature gaps are already cleaned up first, there is NO USE trying to bypass the speed controller YET.
As I said, I have repaired my drill and vacuum cleaner by just cleaning the gaps in the armature - the speed controllers had no fault.
In the case of my Hitachi M12V, just cleaning the armature gaps allowed me to resurrect it and run for a few months after that I found that I really had to replace the speed controller. Unfortunately the speed controller cost more than buying a new cheaper brand router.
So the sequence of repair important.
 

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For cleaning between the armature segments I use an old hacksaw blade with the teeth ground flat to the sides then I clean with a fibre glass pen which is primarily used for cleaning electronic circuit boards.
 
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