[mpphoto]

I recently made some cherry trim for a desk and needed to cut 22.5 degree miters. My miter saw isn't exactly a precision instrument so I decided to cut them by hand with a sharp backsaw and a miter box.

It went fairly well but one or two of the pieces were just a hair too long so I decided I needed a router jig to fix things. I thought about it for days; toggle clamps and t-slots and...

Then I ended up going super simple and making a router version of a shooting board. Two plywood guides were cut at 22.5 degrees on the miter saw and screwed down to a wood base (carrier). I chucked up a great big pattern bit in the router table. The bearing of the router bit rides along the wood base while the blade slices down whatever is hanging over the edge. No fence needed. Very simple and it worked so well I used it to clean up all the mitered cuts and leave a nice clean edge.

Sometimes I overlook the easy solutions.
I suppose I cold have put a few toggle clamps on there...

Michael

 

[Mike]

Michael, one of the router tips from Bob and Rick is to NOT use "quick grip" style clamps when routing. The vibration can cause the clamps to loosen and release. Stick to a "C" clamp or regular bar clamp. Nice work on the jig.

 

[bobj3]

Hi Michael

That's a neat way to get the job done
Routers are neat tools they can do so many jobs very well ...with the right bit.
I will need to store that one in the back of my mine,thanks for taking the time to share it on the forum.

That's what it's all about I think

Bj

 

[mpphoto]

Thanks for the tip Mike, I didn't know that. Zipping the edges off the mitered ends is a millesecond operation but I'm pretty big on safety. Besides, it gives something to do with all the c-clamps I never use

Thanks Bj; it would need a lot more moving parts to be one of your jigs but it worked fine! At some point when all of my home renovation is finished I'd like to start making some picture frames and will probably design another one for 45 degree angles.

Michael

 

[bobj3]

Hi Michael

I do get a bit carried away when I make jigs some of them are over kill. LOL

He are two that I made to make picture fames and you can use the same in the same way as the one you just made .
By putting in slot that would let you move it to a 22 1/2 deg. (cir.slot off the center point)
I also use wooden blocks with sand paper on them to hold the stock in place in this way the hold down metal type don't need to be used ,they are not cheap unlike MDF blocks just like the plastic type knobs that I make out of hardwood and some tee nuts.

Just a side note I also make many sanding blocks by putting on a bit of 3M #77 spray glue on both sides of some 1/2" MDF ,8" x 11" the norm and put 150grit on one side and 220grit on the other side and then cut the scrap MDF into 3" x 3 1/2" sanding blocks on the Radio Arm saw,can't have to many hand sanding blocks makes the sand paper last longer and because you can use all of it.

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/2482-deep-spline-slot-jigs.html
http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/jigs-fixtures/2235-deep-spline-slot-jigs-s5.jpg
http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/jigs-fixtures/2234-deep-spline-slot-jigs-s4.jpg


Bj

 

[Hamlin]

Sandpaper and toggle clamps may be the way to go instead of "C" clamps.
Quick clamps do come in handy for certain types of jobs, ie. glueing jobs.

 

[mpphoto]

Good stuff Bj. I remember when you posted those spline jigs and had bookmarked them. They're high on my list. I like that last one very much.

Ken, if I make another jig for 45 degree angles I think I will go with the toggle clamps. Since this jig was basically for a one-time use I figured I'd keep it simple.

thanks,
Michael

 

[Joe Lyddon]

Michael,

Thank you for bringing us something SO SIMPLE and VERY USEFUL!!

It seems that most of the time, we are missing the forrest for the trees...
... thanks for the refocus!