This accident was an early experience with my first table saw. Hit me in the solar plexis and the bruise and pain lasted for months. :crying:The same orientation holds true if you were running it over a table saw, jointer, or planer for the reason Harry gave. In fact, cutting on the TS with the convex side down can be really dangerous as it can cause the blade to bind and toss the work piece.
Herb; if you flip end for end don't you create an issue with grain direction when it comes to the planing? Why not just flip the piece over top to bottom, assuming the quality is the same for both sides (no knots etc.)?I do it like Don said . Only I saw it all the way through and joint the edge and re glue it. Then if it needs more in a different spot I do it again til it lays flat, the grain matches so the saw cut don't show. Some times I rip them and turn them end for end. Then after they are glued up I run them through the planer or drum sander to finish them. I find that less thickness is lost by doing this.
Your suggestion sounds good to me. If I flip end to end,I dress it down with the drum sander. That is the last resort because when the finish goes on the grain reflects the finish dark and light.Herb; if you flip end for end don't you create an issue with grain direction when it comes to the planing? Why not just flip the piece over top to bottom, assuming the quality is the same for both sides (no knots etc.)?
You'd also counter the warp effect by flipping over.
I am missing Stick´s reply.So many different ideas, some more drastic then others, but what ever method you choose, My first knee jerk thought was the Concave down and the Convex up, seems to me that would lessen any rocking or need to shim it. Then flip it. But as Herb said, you would lose a lot of material in thickness that way. I never would have thought of his idea of splitting it and reglueing Please be careful and post your results . I for one would like to see how you do it and what the out come is.