I don't know if there is a standard or if it matters John. The pin is just to steady the piece on as you start to touch the bit.
Router Starter Pin
Just a quick question please guys. I want to drill and tap a hole in my insert plate to take a starter pin.
I only have youtube vids to go on here, and I'm guessing from watching a few that the distance between the center of the bit and the center of the pin is around 3 inches.
Wonder if anyone can inform me of the correct distance please before I start drilling.
Thanks
I only have youtube vids to go on here, and I'm guessing from watching a few that the distance between the center of the bit and the center of the pin is around 3 inches.
Wonder if anyone can inform me of the correct distance please before I start drilling.
Thanks
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Starter pin hole is about 2.5" from the router centerline on my Bosch RA1181 router table, just outside the tabletop insert. It is located at about 1:30 on the "clock", viewed from directly above.I don't know if there is a standard or if it matters John. The pin is just to steady the piece on as you start to touch the bit.
Rick
Same for me....but since you are drilling new, check to see if 1:30'ish is good for your pieces...I put another hole at about 3:00 to the bit...Starter pin hole is about 2.5" from the router centerline on my Bosch RA1181 router table, just outside the tabletop insert. It is located at about 1:30 on the "clock", viewed from directly above.
Rick
put in several...Same for me....but since you are drilling new, check to see if 1:30'ish is good for your pieces...I put another hole at about 3:00 to the bit...
different set backs and locations...
put in several...
I'm sure it won't be the last...thanks
Seems to me i got one from Rockler. It was close to 3/8ths diameter, a little over an inch long with a 1/4 thread. 2 for $4.99. https://www.rockler.com/fulcrum-pins-for-rockler-router-table-plates
I've seen the videos on them, but never saw the need. Never used one, and have never had any problems.
I was once in a conversation with one of my employees. I spoke of his use of the starter pin and he said he never uses them - even on freehand work...
I said "Hey - Will you arm wrestle me for $100.00?" He was about twice my size and half my age and I'm certain he could crush my hand.
He turned and was looking for a table or bench and I said, "What you looking for? I'm wanting to do this FREEHAND!" Talk about a puzzled look, he was dumbfounded. I told him that in arm wrestling you need a pivot point - then he understood about the starter pin!
If the FENCE doesn't do the job, then a starter pin is necessary IMHO!
Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia
I said "Hey - Will you arm wrestle me for $100.00?" He was about twice my size and half my age and I'm certain he could crush my hand.
He turned and was looking for a table or bench and I said, "What you looking for? I'm wanting to do this FREEHAND!" Talk about a puzzled look, he was dumbfounded. I told him that in arm wrestling you need a pivot point - then he understood about the starter pin!
If the FENCE doesn't do the job, then a starter pin is necessary IMHO!
Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia
My masters are 1" thick, and my workpiece is 1/2", which gives me 1 1/2" of material to get a grip on. I feed it all slowly, until the bearing is on the master, and proceed from there. A lot of my work is odd shaped, and I just don't see a pin helping me more than the way I do it now. However, I can see that if I started faster, that a pin might be helpful. Don't have a fence either.If the FENCE doesn't do the job, then a starter pin is necessary IMHO!
I used the pin when I first started table routing, then I found it got in my way as I learnt how to move the wood around. With my boxes I often have to travel 360 degrees around the outside
But I do mostly use the fence at one end of the piece.
I would NOT recommend doing without if the piece was less than a foot long though (experience taught me that !!!) .
But I do mostly use the fence at one end of the piece.
I would NOT recommend doing without if the piece was less than a foot long though (experience taught me that !!!) .
@sgcz75b - Steve - curious about your router table top. Can you tell me more about it: was it from a prefab table, and if not, I'd like to know more about your replaceable rings, and how you made the opening for them. I've got a Kreg plate with changeable rings so I know how they work, but yours is interesting.
No@sgcz75b - Steve - curious about your router table top. Can you tell me more about it: was it from a prefab table, and if not, I'd like to know more about your replaceable rings, and how you made the opening for them. I've got a Kreg plate with changeable rings so I know how they work, but yours is interesting.
It's made by Veritas. 16x24" 3/16th steel plate - will never sag. Clamping system underneath allows you to quickly remove the router, then replace to the same position without removing router base plate. Works with nearly any router, including plunge routers. A variety of inserts, ranging from 1/2 " to 1.75 " and an insert with guide bushings.
Great fence and also a right-angle sled for dovetails and other work. Came with work hold-downs, stops, and a few other goodies.
I bought it used for $250, spent about $75 on inserts and bushings. Using 2x8s for support and they fit perfectly without any work and allows me to easily change bits and adjust vertical travel.
It sets on an old B&D workmate. I also bought a foot pedal off-on switch.
I'm very pleased with the results. While 16x24" isn't big by some standards, so far I've not found limitations with what I do.
It's solid as Gibraltar.
Veritas® Router Table Top - Lee Valley Tools
The fence, right-angle sled, and a few other items are no longer available. My guess is that it was originally an expensive system to get into so sales were slow. When it first appeared 12-15 years ago it would have cost about 5-600 bucks to get it all, when other router tables were 2-300.
I wasn't familiar with the system until I saw it on Craigslist, did some quick research, and was happy to get table, fence, sled, hold-down, fence stops, for $250.00.
Steve
@sgcz75b - Steve - curious about your router table top. Can you tell me more about it: was it from a prefab table, and if not, I'd like to know more about your replaceable rings, and how you made the opening for them. I've got a Kreg plate with changeable rings so I know how they work, but yours is interesting.
It's made by Veritas. 16x24" 3/16th steel plate - will never sag. Clamping system underneath allows you to quickly remove the router, then replace to the same position without removing router base plate. Works with nearly any router, including plunge routers. A variety of inserts, ranging from 1/2 " to 1.75 " and an insert with guide bushings.
Great fence and also a right-angle sled for dovetails and other work. Came with work hold-downs, stops, and a few other goodies.
I bought it used for $250, spent about $75 on inserts and bushings. Using 2x8s for support and they fit perfectly without any work and allows me to easily change bits and adjust vertical travel.
It sits on an old B&D workmate. I also bought a foot pedal off-on switch.
I'm very pleased with the results. While 16x24" isn't big by some standards, so far I've not found limitations with what I need to do.
It's solid as Gibraltar.
Veritas® Router Table Top - Lee Valley Tools
The fence, right-angle sled, and a few other items are no longer available. My guess is that it was originally an expensive system to get into so sales were slow. When it first appeared 12-15 years ago it would have cost about 5-600 bucks to get it all, when other router tables were 2-300.
I wasn't familiar with the system until I saw it on Craigslist, did some quick research, and was happy to get table, fence, sled, hold-down, fence stops, for $250.00.
Steve
Everything you wanted to know about starter pins...
Probably not but here's an easy video...covers the basics...
Probably not but here's an easy video...covers the basics...
That's where my 1 1/2" comes in handy. As I said, most of my stuff is a bit odd shaped, combine that with the total 1 1/2" thickness means I can get a good solid grip, so I can do less than a foot with no problem. However, you better believe anything under about 4" is not going to work out too well. So, with pieces that small, or less, need to come up with a way to hold the work. Actually I could go a bit less than 4", but value my fingers, and at 4" feel confident, under that lose confidence fast. And I never hold the work loosely; no matter the size, I always get a good grip on it, and hold on tightly.I would NOT recommend doing without if the piece was less than a foot long though (experience taught me that !!!) .
Steve - thanks for the write up. Just checked Lee Valley's site and the top sells for $199 - good price for something that stable.
Yes, 16x24 isn't large, but I made up a router table from an Oak Park plan and it's the same size - haven't had any issues doing anything on that size.
Yes, 16x24 isn't large, but I made up a router table from an Oak Park plan and it's the same size - haven't had any issues doing anything on that size.
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
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