I don't know if there is a standard or if it matters John. The pin is just to steady the piece on as you start to touch the bit.
Starter pin hole is about 2.5" from the router centerline on my Bosch RA1181 router table, just outside the tabletop insert. It is located at about 1:30 on the "clock", viewed from directly above.I don't know if there is a standard or if it matters John. The pin is just to steady the piece on as you start to touch the bit.
Same for me....but since you are drilling new, check to see if 1:30'ish is good for your pieces...I put another hole at about 3:00 to the bit...Starter pin hole is about 2.5" from the router centerline on my Bosch RA1181 router table, just outside the tabletop insert. It is located at about 1:30 on the "clock", viewed from directly above.
Rick
put in several...Same for me....but since you are drilling new, check to see if 1:30'ish is good for your pieces...I put another hole at about 3:00 to the bit...
put in several...
My masters are 1" thick, and my workpiece is 1/2", which gives me 1 1/2" of material to get a grip on. I feed it all slowly, until the bearing is on the master, and proceed from there. A lot of my work is odd shaped, and I just don't see a pin helping me more than the way I do it now. However, I can see that if I started faster, that a pin might be helpful. Don't have a fence either.If the FENCE doesn't do the job, then a starter pin is necessary IMHO!
No@sgcz75b - Steve - curious about your router table top. Can you tell me more about it: was it from a prefab table, and if not, I'd like to know more about your replaceable rings, and how you made the opening for them. I've got a Kreg plate with changeable rings so I know how they work, but yours is interesting.
@sgcz75b - Steve - curious about your router table top. Can you tell me more about it: was it from a prefab table, and if not, I'd like to know more about your replaceable rings, and how you made the opening for them. I've got a Kreg plate with changeable rings so I know how they work, but yours is interesting.
That's where my 1 1/2" comes in handy. As I said, most of my stuff is a bit odd shaped, combine that with the total 1 1/2" thickness means I can get a good solid grip, so I can do less than a foot with no problem. However, you better believe anything under about 4" is not going to work out too well. So, with pieces that small, or less, need to come up with a way to hold the work. Actually I could go a bit less than 4", but value my fingers, and at 4" feel confident, under that lose confidence fast. And I never hold the work loosely; no matter the size, I always get a good grip on it, and hold on tightly.I would NOT recommend doing without if the piece was less than a foot long though (experience taught me that !!!) .