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I was using my Kreg router table and need some help from the experts. I ran a board through with a Ryobi 3/8 straight bit as a joiner. The back fence is one piece and I'm getting some "snipe" at the end as the board isn't running straight at the end. I have a Kreg featherboard for the part feeding into the bit. Your suggestions are most welcome. Just trying to take a little off to clean up the TS cuts.
Also, I want to stain the wood (pecan) and run the front over a shallow cut with either a 3/8 V-groove or a 1/4 round nose to give a light line in contrast to the darker stained wood. Am I making sense? Thanks!
 

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I'm going to answer my own question along with an extremely red face from being embarrassed. After all real men, don't read instructions! I decided to check the owner's manual for the Kreg router table. I discovered on page 8 that there are instructions on how to use the router table as a joiner. Who would have guessed? There are spacers included with the table that give 1/16" or 1/32" offset for the fence. Thanks for reading and getting a chuckle out of a new guy in routing.
 

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Don't feel bad John, I don't read manuals either. As you've figured out, the outfeed fence need to protrude forward of the infeed fence. My homemade fence is adjustable and I use a piece of arborite to bump out the outfeed side. I find that thickness to be just enough to use the router as a joiner.
 

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Glad to hear you got it John. Btw I hate manuals too lol
 

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I would go for the 32nd first. I`ve read that playing cards make excellent shims for things like that. The thicknesses are supposed to be very uniform from card to card.
 

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I'm going to answer my own question along with an extremely red face from being embarrassed. After all real men, don't read instructions! I decided to check the owner's manual for the Kreg router table. I discovered on page 8 that there are instructions on how to use the router table as a joiner. Who would have guessed? There are spacers included with the table that give 1/16" or 1/32" offset for the fence. Thanks for reading and getting a chuckle out of a new guy in routing.
John you might consider using a feather board on the outfeed side to hold the piece tight against the fence as the end goes thru the bit. It should eliminate any snipe.

Herb
 

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I would go for the 32nd first. I`ve read that playing cards make excellent shims for things like that. The thicknesses are supposed to be very uniform from card to card.
That's a great idea Charles . That idea never even occurred to me :wink:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Herb, I have a feather board for the TS. I'll see if I can adapt it to the router table. I inserted the rod/spacer last night and will try the router tomorrow, Got a lot to do around the house today- mainly, clean it. Wife still works and I get to play Mandy the Maid. No, I don't wear a frilly apron! :x
 

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I would go for the 32nd first. I`ve read that playing cards make excellent shims for things like that. The thicknesses are supposed to be very uniform from card to card.
Take a stack of playing cards and lay them down against a known thickness. Press down and slide cards off stack against the known thickness until stack is flush. divide thickness measurement by number of cards. You have a known thickness I like the plastic playing cards the best
 

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Not sure which end your snipe is on but the shim trick works well to even out the "cut" side and the "uncut" side but the trailing end will sometimes move slightly toward the bit if the front end moves a hair away from the fence. If there is too much pressure against the very end of the board it will cause the trailing end to kick in slightly toward the bit and cause snipe. Make sure the board stays tight against the outfeed side of the fence.
 

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Definition of RTFM = unprintable LOL
 

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All good points. You might also consider routing a piece slightly longer than needed so you have the luxury of cutting off a 1/2" or so that might get sniped.

Reminds one of the old con we played as kids, "snipe hunting". :rolleyes:
 
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