[mammy]

Hey all,
Having major angst here. I've just completed a lot of research on a router, router top/fence/lift which will cost $850 (PC 7518 with a Bench Dog top/fence/lift). For pretty much the same amount of money I could get a Shop Fox 2HP shaper (or better yet, a 3HP shaper for only $150 more). Help!

My primary need is router bits and I know the limitations of a shaper is a max spindle speed of 10k which is slow for many smaller router bits. But for the same amount of money wouldn't you rather have a beefy cast iron 2HP shaper over a makeshift MDF router/router table to run those same router bits given all of the added power, sturdiness, flexibility to potentially use shaper cutters?

I'd be sacrificing spindle speed but gaining more power, structural sturdiness and flexibility to run cutters. What say you?

TIA,
Michael

 

[mammy]

thx for the welcome. it's a great forum!
i'll never be doing any production work, only hobby work, honeydo projects, etc. only the occasional raised door panel. mainly running router bits. mainly light duty work. i'll have the occasional large profile for a trim project but that'll be more rare than not.

i suppose my question is more about the pound for pound value question even if, theoretically, i never use a shaper cutter (so the extra cost of cutters and powerfeeder goes away). a shaper can run any router bit with a 1/2" spindle so why spend an equal amount of money on a makeshift rig versus a full shaper if the only downside is a slower spindle speed. even if i don't do large volume production work does it make more sense to get the shaper for an equal amount of money since there's more potential/capability/stability with a shaper for the odd/few times i'll need it. selection of bits seems to not be an issue since i imagine you can use any router bit on a shaper so the shaper will only give you more bit options. no?

but bobj3 is saying that there is more downside to using a shaper as a router than just slower spindle speed. that's a good point and valuable for me to know. his argument suggests router.

michael

 

[mammy]

thx mike but the oak park set up you link to is $700 which is pretty high. i'd build my own before spending that kind of money. as far as individual parts oak park wants $150 for just the table top. many of the top companies that have been reviewed well (ie. bench dog) offer cheaper tops. and the oak park fence seem to be just a strip of polyethylene which limiting.

anyone out there build a nice table that's lasted the test of time with a miter slot and good fence? seems like a lift is necessary with a 7518 or i'd have to take it out every time i want to change a bit, sounds rough.

 

[mammy]

thx mike but the oak park link you sent is a $700 which seems pricey especially for the quality level. i'd build before spending that kind of money. the individual parts seem a bit cheesy. the top is only 3/4 plywood and the fence seem to be just a piece of polyethylene.

anyone out there build a nice router table that's held up over time with a good fence?

 

[mammy]

sorry for the double post, i didn't think my first response to mike went thru!

 

[mammy]

bobj3,
snap out rings and a bent wrench would take care of the bit change but what about the fine adjusting of the router bit level on the table? without a lift how's that done?

 

[mammy]

thx bobj3, i just found a bosch 1619evs that seems to have everything i'm looking for. it has 3 1/4HP yet microadjustment controls and supposedly you can change bits w/o removing from the table so there's no need for a lift. why would anyone but a PC 7518 and spend $300 on a lift? anyone with experience with this router?

also, mike, no i haven't seen router workshop. is it a web-based program or a tv show?

 

[mammy]

milwaukee 5625 owners, do you use a plate or just cut a small hole in the table and direct mount? do you use a lift?

pc 7518 owners, do you use a lift with the pc 7518 or is it reasonable to raise/bit change without a lift?