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Hi mammy

Well Mike and Corey made a good point :), The router can do more jobs than the shaper that said, it takes more Guts to run a shaper, the norm, i.e. a simple 1/2" dado can be tricky on the shaper the stock must be on edge and you can only get the slot about 1 1/2" from the edge of the stock the norm, let's take a Dovetail slot forget that one on the shaper, lets take a 1/8" slot cutters forget them on the shaper, but most of the other cuts can be done very well on the shaper and the cutters turn at 10,000 rpm and just right for the size of most shaper cutter and sometimes it's two fast. (it's a real Guts machine)

If you like a clean shop, the shaper is not the tool for you they make a big mess ,just the way they are setup they don't pickup alot of the chips unless you have a big Vac.System pulling them in.

Now for the router table , it's not so much the cost of the router table setup it's the cost of the bits, you will before long have more money in the bits than the table setup that's why you need to keep the cost of the router table down as low as you can by making your own router table and then get the best router you can get.

I should say one thing about the speed of bits in the router, SPEED KILLS,it kills most bits, they don't need to be ran at 24,ooo rpm to do a good job,speed is heat and that will kill bits in a heart beat the feed of the stock into the bit is the key, that's if you want to keep your bits the router will tell you want it needs to do a good job, it has a voice so to speak :) :)
Once you cook the bit that's it (turn in blue) it's done for good the norm.

It's like driving a stick shift for the 1st time you must learn how to do it.

I know this may not be a big help but it comes down to what you want to do.

There are more Cons. than Pros. for the shaper but it comes down to one point ,(what you want out of the system)

Bj:)


mammy said:
Hey all,
Having major angst here. I've just completed a lot of research on a router, router top/fence/lift which will cost $850 (PC 7518 with a Bench Dog top/fence/lift). For pretty much the same amount of money I could get a Shop Fox 2HP shaper (or better yet, a 3HP shaper for only $150 more). Help!

My primary need is router bits and I know the limitations of a shaper is a max spindle speed of 10k which is slow for many smaller router bits. But for the same amount of money wouldn't you rather have a beefy cast iron 2HP shaper over a makeshift MDF router/router table to run those same router bits given all of the added power, sturdiness, flexibility to potentially use shaper cutters?

I'd be sacrificing spindle speed but gaining more power, structural sturdiness and flexibility to run cutters. What say you?

TIA,
Michael
 

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Hi Mammy

You may want to take a look at the Woodpecker tables/tops.
The lift is a bit over kill, you want a top with a snap out ring that will let you change any bit from the top of the table with a bent wrench that you can get for 14.oo bucks the base cabinet you can make quick and easy for about 50.oo bucks the same thing for the fence, I recommend using MDF stock for the Swing type fence with T & G insert, most routers only need to move up or down in the table about 1" or two for most of the cuts.

If you want more info on the Swing type fence or the T & G inserts just ask.

see snapshot of one of my router tables ▼
This table has a 3 1/4HP router installed.

http://www.woodpeck.com/
http://www.woodpeck.com/rt2432.html


Bj :)






mammy said:
thx mike but the oak park set up you link to is $700 which is pretty high. i'd build my own before spending that kind of money. as far as individual parts oak park wants $150 for just the table top. many of the top companies that have been reviewed well (ie. bench dog) offer cheaper tops. and the oak park fence seem to be just a strip of polyethylene which limiting.

anyone out there build a nice table that's lasted the test of time with a miter slot and good fence? seems like a lift is necessary with a 7518 or i'd have to take it out every time i want to change a bit, sounds rough.
 

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Hi mammy

Many of the new routers come with a fine adjusting knob that you can turn from the bottom or the top side of the router some also some come with a Allen hex key that you can drill a hole in the top base plate and just push it down from the top side of the table into the adjusting tube for the fine adjust , I just got two new Sears routers that have this item built in. :)
I use a T handle Allen hex key for this job that works very well :) for the total cost of 1.50 cents for the key.

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/4063-model-320-17542-table-routing-3.html


Bj :)

mammy said:
bobj3,
snap out rings and a bent wrench would take care of the bit change but what about the fine adjusting of the router bit level on the table? without a lift how's that done?
 

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You'er Welcome mammy
Bosch 1619evs is a good router and I'm sure Mike will help on that one :)
He is the Bosch man and Other members have them also.

RWS,see it on your computer at
http://www.thewoodworkingchannel.com/

Bj :)



mammy said:
thx bobj3, i just found a bosch 1619evs that seems to have everything i'm looking for. it has 3 1/4HP yet microadjustment controls and supposedly you can change bits w/o removing from the table so there's no need for a lift. why would anyone but a PC 7518 and spend $300 on a lift? anyone with experience with this router?

also, mike, no i haven't seen router workshop. is it a web-based program or a tv show?
 

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Hi mammy

I don't have a Milwaukee but you should not just drill a hole out and direct mount the router to the table it should be mounted to a base plate so you can just drop it in the router table, most table tops are from 3/4" to 1 1/2" thick,so if you direct mount the router to the table you will NOT have the full stroke of the router. that's to say most routers can only move the bit up or down by 2 1/2" the norm.

Many of the PC 7518 owners remove the springs in the router so then can move it easy in the table mount, it's a big router but with the springs removed it's easy to move it up or down.

This will show how to remove the springs in a PC but not the PC 7518 but it will give you a show and tell on most of the routers
http://www.routerworkshop.com/mark1.html?list=ME05--

Bj :)
 

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