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Router Table Cabinet

3654 Views 17 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  TenGees
7
Well my router lift finally came in a few weeks ago so I finished setting the table up and built a cabinet for the table. Incorporated a couple of different designs into mine.

Cheers
Jim

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nicely done...
I have a similar table and I really like the shelves and drawers you've managed to fit in. Really nicely done and having the peg board on the side makes it easy to hang and find wrenches and other, similar items hanging there.
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Nice job !
I was admiring the drawers ,then I seen the peg board . Never seen that before ,and think it’s a great idea ;)
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Very nice design, and execution! I like the pegboard idea as well.
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You did good ,looks like you gave it a good workout on the cabinet build. Good Job!.

Herb
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Very nicely done. Like the pegboard.

Frank
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Nicely done...! Pegboard is a great idea...excellent planning and execution...
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Looks great, Jim.
Well my router lift finally came in a few weeks ago so I finished setting the table up and built a cabinet for the table. Incorporated a couple of different designs into mine.

Cheers
Jim

Hey, Jim...just noticed the wild u-turn that your dust collection takes on the 4" side...anything you can do with that to get a straighter run...? Would be better for air flow and for the chips to be carried away...just a thought...
I also noticed the U turn on your dust collection. I just hook my DC 4 inch hose up directly to the Y. You will also get a little better air flow if you replace that T connector with a Y.

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RE: Kinky hose

Hey, Jim...just noticed the wild u-turn that your dust collection takes on the 4" side...anything you can do with that to get a straighter run...? Would be better for air flow and for the chips to be carried away...just a thought...
Nick,
Agreed, will have to either flip the connection over 180 or move the table set up when routing.
T Connector

I also noticed the U turn on your dust collection. I just hook my DC 4 inch hose up directly to the Y. You will also get a little better air flow if you replace that T connector with a Y.
Tom,
I will check that out as I'm using the Rockler Dust Right connector so I'm not sure if it would have a fitting problem. The T is from Rockler for the Dust Right system, they didn't make a Y. Another friend mentioned it also when I showed him pictures.
Nice job!

Well my router lift finally came in a few weeks ago so I finished setting the table up and built a cabinet for the table. Incorporated a couple of different designs into mine.

Cheers
Jim
Hey Jim.

Great job there! I like the cabinet design. I’m curious about how the wood cabinet frame was connected to the steel frame. I love the dust collection. I also have a Jessem lift and I put holes in the inserts for better DC when grooving away from the fence:

https://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/141737-insert-modification-better-table-dc.html

I like your drawer design which seems to skip the fuss of drawer sliders and goes for wood on wood. I guess with enough clearance you have a decent slide.

Best regards

Bill
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RE:Cabinet Connection

Hey Jim.

Great job there! I like the cabinet design. I’m curious about how the wood cabinet frame was connected to the steel frame. I love the dust collection. I also have a Jessem lift and I put holes in the inserts for better DC when grooving away from the fence:


I like your drawer design which seems to skip the fuss of drawer sliders and goes for wood on wood. I guess with enough clearance you have a decent slide.

Best regards

Bill
Hi Bill,
The bottom is just sitting on the inside lip and then I drilled the metal frame in a few spots to hold the back and the dividers for the uprights. I used a 1/4" dado blade and 1/4" maple drawer bottom material is probably 1/16" undersized so they move easily. Saved time and money.

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Jim have you noticed any significant heat rise when using the router? The reason I ask is that cooling air enters the router at it's top end and blows it out the around the bit. This helps keep chips out of the windings and also helps move the heat from the bit away. Air rushing past the end of an open tube causes a vacuum in the tube so it's possible that the air moving past the end of the router top on it's way to the DC could be trying to draw cooling air out of the router which would cause it to run hotter.

Also a DC has to have an adequate air supply to work. It doesn't work on vacuum, it works by floating the debris on an air column. In fact all types of vacs, even ones with high vacuum require that air flow so the total of all the openings in your cabinet have to equal the diameter of your DC's hose. A restricted air supply causes the DC to run hotter too.
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Re:Router Running Hot

Jim have you noticed any significant heat rise when using the router? The reason I ask is that cooling air enters the router at it's top end and blows it out the around the bit. This helps keep chips out of the windings and also helps move the heat from the bit away. Air rushing past the end of an open tube causes a vacuum in the tube so it's possible that the air moving past the end of the router top on it's way to the DC could be trying to draw cooling air out of the router which would cause it to run hotter.

Also a DC has to have an adequate air supply to work. It doesn't work on vacuum, it works by floating the debris on an air column. In fact all types of vacs, even ones with high vacuum require that air flow so the total of all the openings in your cabinet have to equal the diameter of your DC's hose. A restricted air supply causes the DC to run hotter too.
Chuck,
I haven't used it for extended routing sessions yet so I haven't noticed it. I will keep an eye on it.

Jim
I've made several wood on wood drawers, paste wax does a wonder on them.
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