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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am one that enjoys the making of shop jigs because I know that jigs make the making of parts easier and more accurate. I like the ones that are easy and fast to setup and use.

Recently I have had need to make a variety of different size discs and cutouts. I have used my handheld router and shop make jig recently for each of these. But when i was making the discs, I thought it would be nice if I could make them with even less hassle on the router table.

So here is my first pass at the jig made from scrap.







The jig concept allows for the discs to be cut while wood rests directly on the router table so no bit extension is necessary. It allows for cutting discs of 1/4” thickness or greater, precise cutting of grooves or rabbets and cutting on both sides of bit. Cutting on interior side of bit allows for handling of larger pieces and provides access to bit raising controls on my lift.

I will continue to play with it, find what works, what I like and don’t like and then post here any refinements that may get made along the way.

4 different discs and rabbets so far and I like the way it works. The concept also seems scalable.


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nicely thought out...
you have any plans to add DC???
 
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Very nice and functional...!
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
nicely thought out...
you have any plans to add DC???

Nothing above table just yet. My below-table DC system seems like it captured 90+ percent of the dust when I milled the sample discs with the jig. I really have very little dust on the table compared to my pre-DC days and admittedly thrilled with what I have now. There is more to come though.

I am going to start another thread on my recent DC adventure.


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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
A comment I would like to share is about safety.

When I am routing the discs using the following configuration I feel pretty safe turning the blank; reason being that the router bit falls within the slot in the arm. So when turning the blank there is virtually no way for your hands to accidentally impact an exposed bit. Your hand will always come into contact with the arm first and the bit is below the top of the arm.



However, when routing with the disc as in the following photo one could get careless and blood could be drawn. For this reason I am considering a couple of things. 1) Use this position only when routing rabbets and dados (i.e. bit is always lower than the wood being routed and/or 2) creating and using a bit guard that clamps to the edge of the table and extends out over the bit to prevent a hand from touching the bit.



Regardless of which position is use, it is critical that the user be very conscious about the desired/required direction of blank rotation.


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Mike
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Nice Jig Michael
 

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I wonder..
would spring loaded hinges be good to act as hold downs???
 

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another thought...
a layer of UHMW tape to the underside of the ''arm'' to reduce friction???...
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I wonder..
would spring loaded hinges be good to act as hold downs???

Hmmmmm?

That could be a beneficial feature.

Since posting I have added a thick piece of Velcro to both the vertical and horizontal components so I could keep the horizontal component up and out of the way until I wanted it down. Spring loaded hinges would counteract this. I wonder how both hold up and down could effectively cohabitate.


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Hmmmmm?

That could be a beneficial feature.

Since posting I have added a thick piece of Velcro to both the vertical and horizontal components so I could keep the horizontal component up and out of the way until I wanted it down. Spring loaded hinges would counteract this. I wonder how both hold up and down could effectively cohabitate.


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gate type latch or something along those lines???....
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
another thought...
a layer of UHMW tape to the underside of the ''arm'' to reduce friction???...

I have found myself pressing down on the arm a bit and yes that creates friction. The UHMW tape would work, as I think sanding and finishing with a coat of poly or shellac, then a good coat of paste wax. Perhaps even HPL on the underside would be good since it is so smooth.

I did some cuts with a thick washer added around pin to reduce contact area between jig and disc and did make a beneficial difference. A built-in friction reducing feature is warranted.


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