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Discussion Starter #1
Alright I've come to a cross road. I was into building my first router table, even picked up material & ordered T Tracks off Ebay. When I realized why am I building a whole new table when I can fabricate one into the extra extension wing I have, on my Grizzly Table Saw. So what would you do? I am somewhat space restricted, but would like the best table that would produce the best results. Heres where I'm at so far
I was just starting to build my router table over a stand that held my 500gal habitat. Its a sturdy stand that I can incorporate cabinets later, or shelving at the least. So I bought a sheet of 2 'x 4' MDF in 3/4", 1/2", & 1/4"
Plan on laying 4'x2' 1/2" Ply over 3.5' x 1.6' frame of stand Which I'll I'd supports after laying everything out. So I can see where there most needed.
3/4" MDF over Ply

Plate Insert = 1/4 " hard board(?) scrap (Looks very similar to MDF) 10.5" x 7.75" with
16GA Weld Steel Sheet 8"x18" over top Scrap Hard Board, Thought the sheet metal would add nice effect as well as better support from sag & Moistrue as well as less friction after applying Johnson Paste Wax.
Now as you can see in the picture I was leaving the sheet metal a little bigger, is this a Rabbit you'd rather not pull out of a hat :lol: or is it possible, preferable?
Saying this is the way to go, Next I'd
use the same technique to inlay the hard board into the MDF (And the reason for plate inserts is to act as (Or be the same with as your guide plate.) Cause just cutting out a circle in the MDF would leave me with 3/4" to compensate for so that the router bits effective. :unsure:
Then I'd lay out Dado's for the T Tracks
2 From the router bit back (How far apart should each one be from center of bit, and how long would you make your fence. And any fence Ideas are more then welcome.
Or do you think
Adding it to the table saw extension wing, would be better. Or how would I go about it.
First Off what side of the bit must I keep my work pc (Left side of bit (attached to table) would be my cutting side? Cause it does matter right?
I would lay it out the same way I did on the MDF, I've got a Milwaukee Hole Saw Set that I used on the sheet metal. Think it'd handle cast iron? If not I can torch it out then grind it down to a smooth surface. Tap and counter sink the holes for attaching the router. I didn't ask this earlier but do I leave off the guide plate when I attach the router to the table. (The plate or template I took off the router to mark where the holes go.) And is that it? Should I leave the Plunge Base attached to the motor or use the body grip. I was thinking plunge base cause then I't kinda be like having a lift system. Or am I'm way off here.
Something I should mention. This is my first router, First router Its a Milwaukee 5616 with plunge base and body glove base. and although I , used Dremel & Roto Zip up until now I'm still Kermit The Frog (Green) on a lot of this.
Using the fence system and saving of space makes this choice more attractive to me. Barring no complication factors. I would have to cut through the support molds that come off the underside of the extension wing. But that shouldn't be to hard.
I hope I covered everything here. I know if your reading this you really stuck it out with me. I thank you so much! I'm sorry if this dragged on in any part. I must erase and reword a 100 times before I post, so if anything is choppy please forgive me. I just try to make it as easy as possible to follow along. Although it might not look that way lol Cant wait to hear your thoughts and ideas
I could save the material I just purchased for other projects, jigs, and to add on to the fence system I already have should I
 

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I would scrap the hardboard and 16ga idea.
Buy a real insert plate with removable rings. Use scrap wood to make a frame around the plate, and use that as a guide to cut the hole with your router. Or, just buy an insert and a template kit from Rousseau.

Amazon.com: Rousseau 3509 9-Inch x 12-Inch x 3/8-Inch Deluxe Router Base Plate: Home Improvement

Amazon.com: Rousseau 3509-T Installation Template for Deluxe Router Base Plate Model 3509 and Router Lift LS Models 3002, 3003, 3004: Home Improvement





 

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I would hesitate to cut through the ribs on a cast extension. That could cause warpage or cracking later. It can also be hard to drill. Cast will often have hard spots in it. How do you plan on rabbeting a lip for your insert to sit on? Also, the fence for a TS does not make a good router fence because there is no cutout for the bit. You would need to build it up enough that the face of the added fences will be wider than the bit. Another issue is that if you have the router and fence set for a router cut, then you don't have the use of your TS and vice versa. There are a number of disadvatanges and the the only advantage is the space saving.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
AxlMyk thanks for the links, When it comes to the different rings, are they used when you step up or down in Bit size?
The price on that insert plate is half what Rockler sells theirs for. Is they're much of a difference in quality that would justify a price increase like that?
Cherryville you bring up some great points and concerns, Thank You, I'm going to scrap the table saw idea. And stick with my original idea. But incorporate a table insert plate. Thanks again Axl.
Now as far as a router lift. Is this a necessity, would using the plunge body act as a lift?
Sorry for so many questions.
Appreciate the help (My bubble is getting bigger each time) :)
 

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Plunge adjustment

Yes, the plunge base would act as a height adjustment, but so does a fixed base have a height adjustment. My plunge base is adjusted with some 17mm nuts on a threaded shaft (which I don't like at all) so I have to lift the router and mounting plate out of the table to do the adjustment. I got an idea from someone else on this forum about removing the springs to make it easier. I have done that but have not had occasion to use the router to try it out yet.
Have you thought about purchasing a replacement wing for your saw which is made especially to mount a router to it?
 

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The Rousseau mounting plate is still the most popular in the world and sold under license by Trend in the UK. Most of the commercial mounting plates available are based on this design with the different sized rings. When routing you want good support for your material and a minimal but not zero clearance opening around your bit. You have to leave room for the sawdust to escape.
 

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Anthony I would not suggest using the table extension It is far to expensive to mess up and in the end I don't think you would be happy with it. The metal insert would also not work because you need to have different size holes for different size bits. Here is a sample of my fence system. It doesn't use T tracks but instead rides on a carriage bolt in the back. The front part of the fence flips to give me two levels in which I can place the feather boards. This is necessary because the feather boards have only a limited amount of up and down travel and since I sometimes route thicker wood I need it to go higher.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
William your right the BodyGrip has a Depth Wrench I can use above the table, have to wait until the insert gets here to see if a holes provided to access it. If not I'll drill my own... Is there still a benefit of purchasing a lift kit..... I hope removing the springs does the trick for ya. I love when things work out for the better, After a tweak here or there.

Mike I can see why its the most popular. Offers a lot for almost half what others go for..lol I'm getting it now with the rings, and even templates for that matter :) Sometimes the obvious escapes me lol. But now I'm getting why zero clearance wouldn't be smart.

Mgmine I like your set up, thanks for the pics. I like the flip up fence, I'm going to have to incorporate that. I just ordered featherboards (Milescraft Dual or Tandem) for the same concept and I don't think the price was to bad $24 w/ free shipping on amazon. I'd leave a link but I don't have enough posts yet. ;_(
My mind can't stop racing with ideas on how to build the fence. I really would love to find some inexpensive scrap aluminum with T Slots already in it. I'm kicking myself in the a$$ because I'm a second gen scrapper, I can't tell you the amount of stuff I've cashed in that would work perfect. For instance... those Cubical's.Once you tear the cloth off them and kick out the center, the frame would work perfect, I wish I was still driving roll off. I'm going to take a trip to my local scrap yard and see what they have to offer. Cause at the end of the day I'll always enjoy seeing what I can fabricate.....effectively lol Especially for a 10th of the price.
Although some of the setups I'd happily lay money out for... if i could afford it.

And Thank You all!!! Having the feed back allows me to retain the information so much easier, not to mention the helpful replies to my questions. So thank you again, and again for helping me understand this all so that I can put it to good use.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Score Today!

I went to my local scrap yard hoping I might run into some Aluminum I could use for a fence. No luck. But while in the area of the scrap yard. I happened to notice a sign " Franks Building Supply" I had the wife and kid with me so I was a little hesitant to check it out.....;. The wife stayed in the car LMAO Turned out to be an awesome spot. They didn't have any T Tracks but they did have the Large Black Star Knobs with Tee Nuts. Price was a little steep at $4.50each Knob, But only .30 cents each. for Tee Nut. I grabbed 4 Knobs and about 20 Tee Nuts in Various Sizes. I figured this would at least let me run some trial and error until the items I ordered arrive. So it was a nice score cause I really wanted the large knobs for ease of use. I'll be posting a new thread on these star knobs where I found them for a lot less. But you have to order in bulk.
But the place I was at today had a few more in stock and a few other variety's like the wide v knobs you also see on Lawn Mowers. I can't post links yet but its
Franks Building Supply . com
:big_boss:
 
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