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I'm trying to figure out how to set up dust collection when routing a groove in a long board which will extend off the end of my table. With short boards I can attach a hood to the edge of the table which will catch the shooting dust. But with a long board that needs to run off the edge of the table the board would hit the collector hood. If the collector hood were just below the surface of the table most if not all of the dust would probably blow past the collector.
OR is the answer an Upcut Spiral bit?
 

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I'm trying to figure out how to set up dust collection when routing a groove in a long board which will extend off the end of my table. With short boards I can attach a hood to the edge of the table which will catch the shooting dust. But with a long board that needs to run off the edge of the table the board would hit the collector hood. If the collector hood were just below the surface of the table most if not all of the dust would probably blow past the collector.
OR is the answer an Upcut Spiral bit?
My Rockler router fence has a dust collection hood attachment. It catches most of the shavings.
 

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The only thing I've ever conceived for capturing dust when routing grooves is a hole in the table past the bit. How effective that would be I don't know as you must have air movement for a vac to work and there wouldn't be a lot of air movement that way and you wind up with a hole in your table, or 2 with one on each side in case you you need to feed left to right (there are cases where this is the correct feed direction). Incra has come out with vented rings in the plate hole that are supposed to help with that but you need under the table DC which presents its own problems.

You can use a double guide system on the hand held router instead and if your router has a DC attachment it should work great. I posted a quick home made guide to add to a purchased guide in Paduke's Shop Hack's thread. If you have through rod guide holes in your router that will work and if you don't already have an edge guide you could make 2 of the one I showed and buy some rods to put them on. Drill rod is fairly cheap and comes in lots of diameters and usually comes in 3 foot lengths so one rod cut in half would probably do it.
 
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Same table I have. The gap is variable. I have the metal box below with 4 inch DC port in back with a Y connector to which the 2.5 inch hose from just behind the fence is attached. You can also trim off a slight 45 degrees off the bottom edge of the fence to help give the sawdust a way to get sucked away. Can never remember the word for this slight relief cut, which can easily be done with a block plane. If I were going to cut a hole in the plate, I'd make sure it was filed very smooth so it won't catch sawdust on a rough edge.
 

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I'm trying to figure out how to set up dust collection when routing a groove in a long board which will extend off the end of my table. With short boards I can attach a hood to the edge of the table which will catch the shooting dust. But with a long board that needs to run off the edge of the table the board would hit the collector hood. If the collector hood were just below the surface of the table most if not all of the dust would probably blow past the collector.
OR is the answer an Upcut Spiral bit?
Since my shop is in a garage unattached from the house, I roll my router table out side, check the direction of the wind, mask up and route away. I realize that everyone can not do that.
 

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Wow that's a sweet looking setup Andy
Uhh . . . Actually, that's a picture stolen from Rockler's website.

But I do have that fence, without the featherboards. My table is mounted between the rails of my tablesaw. I've been very pleased with the setup. Want an offset fence? Just shim behind the outfeed side.
 
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Uhh . . . Actually, that's a picture stolen from Rockler's website.

But I do have that fence, without the featherboards. My table is mounted between the rails of my tablesaw. I've been very pleased with the setup. Want an offset fence? Just shim behind the outfeed side.
Sorry Andy I thought it was in your shop . With the feather boards all set up , it just looks cool and ready kick butt.
I looked at this router table before and watched the videos on the fence setup with those tiny pipes , and I gotta say it's an intriguing setup . Can't see a guy going wrong with this purchace ;)

I'm liking the thought of it installed on your table saw . Did you ever post a pic ?
 

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I do have that Rockler table and it does kick butt. However, the plate I got for a Triton TRA001 from Rockler has a somewhat awkward way to change inserts. You undo 3 tiny screws, switch inserts, find the screws (they seem to be escape artists) and screw them in again. So I've replaced the plate with a Woodpecker plate with the bayonet (twist lock) inserts. Had to set up the woodpecker template to cut out the shape, which is an inch more top and bottom, and nearly 1/8th inch thicker, than the Rockler.

The Rockler metal table is pretty nice, but I have put in ply sheets back and sides to help restrain the sawdust. It is also a little too tall for me with castors on it, so the sides help reduce the amount of sawdust that gets under it--that stuff is hard to clean up when you have to move the whole table.

I am considering building a ply cabinet for the top so I can put castors on to roll it out for cleaning up stray sawdust. My shop is small so mobility if the only way I can clean it properly.
 

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Tom re: those small screws. I have very large hands and small screws like that are a tremendous source of aggravation to me but I found that a small rare earth magnet stuck to the shaft of the screw driver near the tip will hold them on without help. this makes a job like that much easier and less frustrating and avoids the usual hunt for dropped and lost screws.
 
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Tom re: those small screws. I have very large hands and small screws like that are a tremendous source of aggravation to me but I found that a small rare earth magnet stuck to the shaft of the screw driver near the tip will hold them on without help. this makes a job like that much easier and less frustrating and avoids the usual hunt for dropped and lost screws.
Good idea Chuck, I have the same insert with 3 screws and always afraid of loosing them.
Herb
 

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Hi Jim, sounds like you would be looking at an up-cut spiral bit and good under-table suction perhaps one of these new silicon rubber hoods? The fence suction won't work, since you are routing a groove, not a rabbet. You could of course get inventive and spring-mount the dust hood to the side edge of your table, such that it stands above the table top until the leading edge of your long board reaches it, at which point the board will push the top edge of the hood down, level with the table top, but making a seal of sorts with the underside of the board. Seem like a lot of trouble?
 
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