Router Table Fence.

I think your first assessment of that piece is correct. Here are several diagrams of a shop made fence. It's pretty easy to make one, although to cut the grooves for the split front pieces you'll need a temporary fence. You can clamp a very straight 2x4 piece to the table for that. You may be able to use a few of your star knobs.

Most of the time a fence can most easily adjusted if you fix one end, and only move the other end. Consider drilling a hole through the left end of the fence and into the table top. Use a metal peg to hold it in place and clamp the other end. For the vast majority of routing jobs, this will make it very easy to adjust depth of cut. You can make a number of passes, then when you get the final cut, mark the edge of the fence on the table. Then you know the final cut for all the pieces you're working on. Here are drawings and a picture of several shop made fences. Pick one, or combine different features. Make it from the flattest piece of Baltic Birch ply you can find. If you can't find the 5z5 foot Baltic birch, find a really flat piece of ply with as many layers as you can find.

This photo I got from the internet, is what I want to do, I dont have the room in my incredable shrinking shed to have a stand alone router table.
The table folds down when not in use.



I live in the centre of Aust, the nearest woodworking shop is 2500 km (1555 miles) away. We dont have the varity that you do in North America.

I like his fence the blue Aliminium angle, but it doesnt seems to be advailable in Aust.

I bought this table top from the Incra dealer in Aust, it was suppost to have the two tracks for the fence to attach where the red box is.

Heres some photos of the fence striped down.
The last photo is what I thought will be useable for the new fence.

Because you have slots in those fence supports, you don't need tracks to hold the fence. Only two knobs need to screw through those slots into the table. As I mentioned earlier, you'll have to figure out where to put them so that the fence will travel past the the bit in front at one extreme and then back behind the bit at the other.

One problem with a router in your table saw, that would irritate me, is that you have to remove the router fence to be able to fully use the saw. I would think about putting 4 legs on it so you can just pull the table out of there when needed.

This is my router table. The fence can be as simple as a piece of HDPE clamped to the table.

Here is the simplist fence I've ever seen. Construction grade lumber either hand planed flat, or sanded on the bottom as flat as you can get it. Use a saw to cut out the center gap, your router to hollow out the path from bit to dust extraction. With any router, you will need dust extraction. And you must sweep away all sawdust on the table so it doesn't get underneath your workpiece. It doesn't take much sawdust to destroy the accuracy of your cut.

You could probably add a piece just above the front to give you height, but if you do, make sure it is exactly 90 degrees from the body of this fence. Support it with some square cut pieces or brackets.

if you want an aluminum T track on front, cut a 3/4 groove, 3/8ths deep for standard US T track. It screws into place so if you build a better fence, you can just move it over. My suggestion to fix one end in place, and pivot the other end to adjust depth of cut, still applies.

et it.

Just had a look and found the drill press table fence.





What I hate about MDF note how it warpes in the middle.

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