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i have a Ridgid (TS3650) table saw im wanting to add a router table to the rail end of this saw

I have run across some 3/4 inch Plexiglass for the table top an some 1/4 inch MR10 (non-maring) plexiglass for the router mount .Im am working off the idea i read from this link (couldnt get the link to post :( )an get any in-put from the people who know the good ,bad an the uglys on things like this :D

thx

Oh yea i got a Freud FT-1700 router 2 days ago ( step up from a very old dewalt) I drove to the nearest dealer i could find 2 an half hrs ,I asked about the free plunge base they told me u contact Freud an they send it to u ,So I bought the router $169.oo an 6 bits $390.oo in all , got home called Freud I got ( Sorry that is over ) so now to get the plunge base the total price is not going to be good at all (thats about my luck tho ) so the lil lie to make the sale :mad: ,if it wasnt so far it would prob go back for a refund but i used it an really like the router alot , Oh an still no dust attachments in them either :confused:
 

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If this was my project I would save the 3/4" Plexiglas for an aquarium project and build the table from 3/4" plywood topped with 1/2" of hardboard, wrapped with 3/4" thick hardwood and then laminated both sides. This construction method is from ShopNotes #1; I have built this style table top and it is very strong. Other members have used MDF and angle iron to brace it, I prefer the first method. Plexiglas may work for your router since it is not one of the larger units but sagging is still likely to occur. Lexan is a better choice for a clear plate and phenolic the best short of using aluminum.
 

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Sorry to hear that you were misinformed about the free plunge base offer and that you are missing the dust chute. The currently shipping units do have the dust chute included but there are quite a few in the channel that do not. I have the chutes in stock and will happily send you one if you will PM or email your address.
 

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Twisted, I have the same set-up you do. Ridgid 3650 and Freud 1700 router. Mine didn't come with the dust chute either. No big deal though, I just called Freud customer service and they had me one in a few days (great customer service). As for adding a router table to the saw, ridgid forum dot com has several post about this. Rprice is the login name of a guy on there that made his out of melamine. He has detailed instructions and pics of how he did it.
 

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i have a Ridgid (TS3650) table saw im wanting to add a router table to the rail end of this saw

I have run across some 3/4 inch Plexiglass for the table top an some 1/4 inch MR10 (non-maring) plexiglass for the router mount .Im am working off the idea i read from this link (couldnt get the link to post :( )an get any in-put from the people who know the good ,bad an the uglys on things like this :D

thx

Oh yea i got a Freud FT-1700 router 2 days ago ( step up from a very old dewalt) I drove to the nearest dealer i could find 2 an half hrs ,I asked about the free plunge base they told me u contact Freud an they send it to u ,So I bought the router $169.oo an 6 bits $390.oo in all , got home called Freud I got ( Sorry that is over ) so now to get the plunge base the total price is not going to be good at all (thats about my luck tho ) so the lil lie to make the sale :mad: ,if it wasnt so far it would prob go back for a refund but i used it an really like the router alot , Oh an still no dust attachments in them either :confused:
I also have a Ridgid saw and elected to make my router extension from scrap solid surface counter top material a Corian knock off. With a little planning you can design it so your table saw fence will double as your router fence.
The beauty of this addition is that it can be drilled and tapped for any additions.
Be well
Bill
 

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i made mine from melamine as well. just a 3/4" shelf i bought at walmart.

i screwed some small blocks of wood to the bottom sides and put bolts in the wood lined up with the t tracks in the rails. pretty easy really

here are some pics

View attachment 20766

View attachment 20767
Mike,
You did a good job and I'm glad it was easy for you because you will be having to replace that melamine before long. It just won't last and the particle board it is on is too flimsey for a router table.
 

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The idea of a "see-through" router table is kinda neat. As rigid as the 3/4" plexi seems, however, it might sag over time under the weight of the router. You might need to reinforce the table area with a couple of struts across the bottom side. I'd do those out of the same 3/4" plexi, about 1 1/2" wide, dadoed into the bottom edge by 1/4" or so.

But, I'd agree that good-quality plywood, properly surfaced, would be far easier to work. You might take a look at the Phenolic plywood available through Woodcraft:

Buy Phenolic Faced Plywood, Jigs & Fixtures - Woodcraft.com

If you go that way, use contact cement to laminate multiple layers. Regular glue won't hold on the phenolic surface.
 

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Where does he hang it from, his belt?

He just needs a copper static strap hanging to the floor. :jester:
But the router has a ground on it.
I guess you mean HE has to have a copper static strap.
Where does he hang it from, his belt?
I'm not even going to ask where he affixes it to his body! :nono:
 
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